|
climbingjono
Feb 25, 2008, 6:06 AM
Post #1 of 8
(861 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2007
Posts: 4
|
I was wondering what other people might have done or if there were any suggestions out there on how and what to train with a broken finger.
I broke my finger last weekend (not climbing) and dont want to do anything to make the healing process longer. I also dont want to lose a lot of fitness.
Any suggestions on what i could or shouldnt do would be great. The fracture is in the first joint, just below the knuckle of my middle finger.
Cheers
|
|
|
|
|
joswald
Feb 25, 2008, 4:33 PM
Post #2 of 8
(833 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 19, 2008
Posts: 64
|
get some lifting straps and do weightlifting? e.g lat pulldowns etc
train your core and make it really strong!!
make your other hand really strong!
|
|
|
|
|
climbingjono
Mar 2, 2008, 8:14 AM
Post #3 of 8
(799 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2007
Posts: 4
|
I guess then the next question is when do i start climbing again? I dont want to rush it and plan on waiting until i am comfortable doing pullups again (hopefully soon, i cant quite make a closed fist yet, although that is with my fingers strapped).
Is there anything else that I should look out for/avoid or possibly use as a benchmark for when I can get back on the rock.
|
|
|
|
|
joswald
Mar 12, 2008, 9:16 PM
Post #4 of 8
(760 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 19, 2008
Posts: 64
|
speak to a physio
|
|
|
|
|
mega
Mar 12, 2008, 9:37 PM
Post #5 of 8
(755 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 10, 2003
Posts: 60
|
One of my partners broke his finger late in the summer. He took a few weeks off from climbing, then eased his way back into it, wearing the finger splint at all times. For indoor workouts he would do laps up and down easy, juggy climbs - overhangs and crimps were off limits for awhile. For outdoors, he did not lead for at least a month from my recollection, but would still follow easy (5.4) routes. Over time, he was able to incorporate crimpier and more overhung routes - within two months he was leading trad 5.8s again. I think he wore the splint while climbing for at least three months. I hope you have a quick recovery.
|
|
|
|
|
climbingjono
Mar 13, 2008, 1:51 AM
Post #6 of 8
(732 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2007
Posts: 4
|
I've actually seen an occupational therapist recomended by my doctor who specialises in hands about it. Basically she'll be starting me on light strengthening stuff in 3 more weeks (starting with squezzing a sponge and ROM stuff so obviously going slow). Then in another 3 weeks she thinks I'll be basically back to normal again.
Luckily I havent made it any worse (if the fracture was any bigger they'd need to operate), I only saw a doc at a medical center when I initially broke it, who wasn't particularly helpful. I then sailed for 3 days offshore in quite tough conditions in a nationals the weekend after which was how I originally broke it.
|
|
|
|
|
Chris_sharma
Mar 13, 2008, 5:16 PM
Post #7 of 8
(686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2008
Posts: 4
|
I feel your stress. Every day is a new day, and if you become injured, it can be day felt lost. When i see and encounter a new route, as psyched as i get, i always try to approach the climb with a clear mind and a careful approach. becoming injured can make you feel stressed out, but instead of counting the minutes until you heal, you can try to take the time to sit back and think about your form and achievements as a climber. Becoming hurt often happens for a reason, and it can be a sign that you should maybe take some time off the rock and reflect on your thoughts. Enjoy.
|
|
|
|
|
volleymdut
Mar 13, 2008, 5:56 PM
Post #8 of 8
(677 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 13, 2008
Posts: 5
|
Injuries are always a bummer. If you would like any more medical interpretation of the injury (no charge of course!), I am an orthopaedic surgeon and love climbing and evaluating musculoskeletal injuries. If you upload the x-rays or can describe the actual location of the fracture better that would help. You've probably gotten good advice from the therapist already though. Always remember, healing must take place before you resume normal climbing activities. You'll regret returning too early. Also, avoid medications such as ibuprofen and naprosen, as some studies have shown they may slow and even stop bone from healing. Acetaminaphen (Tylenol) is safe, but follow the max dose instructions. Any other questions just holler.
|
|
|
|
|
|
