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adam3
Mar 13, 2008, 5:57 PM
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Buying a set of BD C4's .3-#5 and want to know which would be best to double. I was thinking #1 and #2. maybe #3.. so I guess my question really is which two sizes of BD C4's do you guys use more?
To End this post I have decided on
1-.3
1-.4
1-.5
1-.75
2-#1
2-#2
1-#3
1-#4
Got a great (new) deal on them.. from there I will figure out which way I want to go. But for now this will be enough for me to learn with. Thanks for posting now please stop : p
(This post was edited by adam3 on Mar 15, 2008, 4:52 PM)
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cfurman
Mar 13, 2008, 6:11 PM
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1 and 2 for sure
where do u climb?
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splitterchoss
Mar 13, 2008, 6:12 PM
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depends on what and where you like to climb. hand cracks, go with the 1,2,3, fingers, go smaller.
in general though, i'd get some smaller pieces first. usually smaller = harder, and you want more pro.
have fun.
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granite_grrl
Mar 13, 2008, 6:22 PM
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You're in Ontario, you don't need doubles unless you have some solo road tripping to crack areas soming up.
If you're climbing on the limestone around here make sure you have some tri-cams and hexes instead (note: I'm not a huge advocate for hexes in other areas, but they're a god send on the crap we have around here).
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adam3
Mar 13, 2008, 6:26 PM
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Thats what I figured. I do plan on doing a lot of trips this season and with these cams Ill have a full rack for trad.
Thanks for the posts
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8flood8
Mar 13, 2008, 6:27 PM
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as others have said, depends on what you want to climb.
i got doubles of everything. Sure my rack weighs twice as much, but i'm not ever lacking for gear when racking up for a climb. Not to mention, combine your rack with a friends rack and you can pretty much protect anything.
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caughtinside
Mar 13, 2008, 6:29 PM
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I assume you've already got a set of nuts. ha ha.
Since you're asking the question, I also assume you're mostly leading .8 and under for the moment.
If that's the case, I'd double up on 1 and 2.
Reason is, is that thinner stuff at those grades isn't that hard, and you can most likely work out a good stance to get a nut in. So you're effectively already doubled up in those sizes through your nuts/small cams.
You've only got singles in your 1 and 2 size. And it's nice to be doubled in that size, if not for the pitch itself then for the anchors. Plenty anchors out there that don't take just small stuff.
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granite_grrl
Mar 13, 2008, 6:37 PM
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adam3 wrote: Thats what I figured. I do plan on doing a lot of trips this season and with these cams Ill have a full rack for trad. Thanks for the posts
Seems excessive, but its your cash. You won't need doubles for a little while (and that #5 will probobly be a boat anchor for a while too), but you'll probobly need them eventually I guess.
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caughtinside
Mar 13, 2008, 6:58 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: adam3 wrote: Thats what I figured. I do plan on doing a lot of trips this season and with these cams Ill have a full rack for trad. Thanks for the posts Seems excessive, but its your cash. You won't need doubles for a little while (and that #5 will probobly be a boat anchor for a while too), but you'll probobly need them eventually I guess.
Seems like a normal double rack to me.
Although I didn't notice at first you were going to get a #5.
Don't get the #5, and double up on the .75, and then the .5 if you still have cash (after you get the 1 and 2.)
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granite_grrl
Mar 13, 2008, 7:23 PM
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caughtinside wrote: granite_grrl wrote: adam3 wrote: Thats what I figured. I do plan on doing a lot of trips this season and with these cams Ill have a full rack for trad. Thanks for the posts Seems excessive, but its your cash. You won't need doubles for a little while (and that #5 will probobly be a boat anchor for a while too), but you'll probobly need them eventually I guess. Seems like a normal double rack to me. Although I didn't notice at first you were going to get a #5. Don't get the #5, and double up on the .75, and then the .5 if you still have cash (after you get the 1 and 2.)
I don't know, I still climb with a single set of cams most of the time. Even at the little more crack orriented areas in the east (like the Red, haven't climbed at the New very much) I didn't even start thinking about about wanting doubles till I started into 5.9s and 10s.
Getting a double rack right away is likely to develop the bad habits of carrying too much gear all the time.
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cchildre
Mar 13, 2008, 7:32 PM
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Double up the #.75, #1, and #2.
Outside of those sizes, if you have to ask, then you really need to spend some time climbing on your current rack to recognize it's other limitations.
Sidenote: The Omega Pacific #1 Link Cam can serve as a backup for the #1, #2, and #3 C4. Personally, I double up with a #.75 C4 and #1 Link, which has yet to leave me stranded mid route or building anchors. I also don't mind a healthy run out either, so do consider that evaluating this post.
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caughtinside
Mar 13, 2008, 7:47 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: Getting a double rack right away is likely to develop the bad habits of carrying too much gear all the time.
I think its a good habit for new trad leaders to carry and place too much gear, and then pare down as they progress.
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coastal_climber
Mar 13, 2008, 8:57 PM
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caughtinside wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Getting a double rack right away is likely to develop the bad habits of carrying too much gear all the time. I think its a good habit for new trad leaders to carry and place too much gear, and then pare down as they progress.
I agree, at first I used to rack up everything I had, but I've since learned to gauge what I need better, unless its aid.
>Cam
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petsfed
Mar 13, 2008, 9:03 PM
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My go-anywhere-do-anything is a double set from .75 camalot up to old style 3.5 camalot, with singles on either end past that. But I climb at a predominantly crack area where doubles are often useful.
In any event, start your doubles in hands (so like red and yellow) then expand from there into fists and fingers. Around the time I got doubles for .75, I started getting thirds in the hand sizes, so you can see how your rack will grow in the future.
/bringing over 70 cams for Indian Creek next week
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angry
Mar 13, 2008, 9:04 PM
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caughtinside wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Getting a double rack right away is likely to develop the bad habits of carrying too much gear all the time. I think its a good habit for new trad leaders to carry and place too much gear, and then pare down as they progress.
I disagree, I think too few people have learned the art of nuts and generally doing more with less.
A full set of nuts, 3 of the largest hexes, and a 1, 2, and 3" cam should be all you are allowed to have for your first 2-3 years of climbing.
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the_climber
Mar 13, 2008, 9:25 PM
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angry wrote: caughtinside wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Getting a double rack right away is likely to develop the bad habits of carrying too much gear all the time. I think its a good habit for new trad leaders to carry and place too much gear, and then pare down as they progress. I disagree, I think too few people have learned the art of nuts and generally doing more with less. A full set of nuts, 3 of the largest hexes, and a 1, 2, and 3" cam should be all you are allowed to have for your first 2-3 years of climbing.
I wasn't far off from that when I started, 2/3 of a set of nuts, #1.5 #2.5 #3.5 + #4 friends and 2 Hexes. That got me up most of the multipitch I was doing at the time (including Yamnuska) and including building the anchors.
Start small, go big... try not to fall!
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caliclimbergrl
Mar 13, 2008, 9:36 PM
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This is getting repetitive, but I'll go ahead and echo what a lot of others are saying.
Of course it depends on what and where you're climbing, but for a variety of areas, I would double on .75, #1 and #2. Also, I wouldn't buy the #5. Wait until you have a project in mind that you'd need it for. I still don't have a #5 and since I'm not much of an off-width climber, I doubt I'll ever buy one. As it is, my #4 stays on the ground most of the time.
Also, you didn't ask, but I might avoid buying the smaller sized of BD cams unless you're sure that's what you want. A lot of people (myself included) like tcu's and aliens better for smaller pieces. The smallest BD I have is a .5 and a lot of my climbing partners don't go smaller than .75.
Also, most of my climbing partners have a full rack of gear too and we're constantly pulling from each other's gear if we're climbing splitter cracks. I would still recommend doubling up on mid-sized pieces if you like climbing cracks, but remember you can often fill in what you're lacking with your partner's rack.
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adam3
Mar 13, 2008, 10:40 PM
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To End this post I have decided on
1-.3
1-.4
1-.5
1-.75
2-#1
2-#2
1-#3
1-#4
Got a great (new) deal on them.. from there I will figure out which way I want to go. But for now this will be enough for me to learn with. Thanks for posting now please stop : p
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GeneralBenson
Mar 14, 2008, 2:06 AM
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cchildre wrote: Double up the #.75, #1, and #2. Outside of those sizes, if you have to ask, then you really need to spend some time climbing on your current rack to recognize it's other limitations. Sidenote: The Omega Pacific #1 Link Cam can serve as a backup for the #1, #2, and #3 C4. Personally, I double up with a #.75 C4 and #1 Link, which has yet to leave me stranded mid route or building anchors. I also don't mind a healthy run out either, so do consider that evaluating this post.
The #1 Red Link cam goes from .5 to #1 C4's; .4 if you really over cam it. #2 goes from .75 to #2 C4.
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chossmonkey
Mar 14, 2008, 11:57 AM
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granite_grrl wrote: Getting a double rack right away is likely to develop the bad habits of carrying too much gear all the time.
Yes
And drop the boat anchor.
Anything above a #4 is generally a specialty piece.
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chossmonkey
Mar 14, 2008, 12:03 PM
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adam3 wrote: But for now this will be enough for me to learn with. Thanks for posting now please stop : p
Its a sickness!!!!
You might want to edit your first post so people see that and stop reading it and responding.
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the_climber
Mar 14, 2008, 1:59 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Getting a double rack right away is likely to develop the bad habits of carrying too much gear all the time. Yes And drop the boat anchor. Anything above a #4 is generally a specialty piece.
But what if you happen to like specialty pieces of gear? What then Chossy, What then?
Gear is a sickness man! You tell yourself, just don't do it man, you already have a full rack, doubles in most, more pink tricams than you can shake a pointed stick at, but that big green monster of a #5 keeps staring me in the eye saying "buy me".... "buy me".... I mean Shit, I already have 3 cams up to and over 6" but it keeps calling my name...
What then Mr. Monkey?
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wanderlustmd
Mar 14, 2008, 2:08 PM
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the_climber wrote: chossmonkey wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Getting a double rack right away is likely to develop the bad habits of carrying too much gear all the time. Yes And drop the boat anchor. Anything above a #4 is generally a specialty piece. But what if you happen to like specialty pieces of gear? What then Chossy, What then? Gear is a sickness man! You tell yourself, just don't do it man, you already have a full rack, doubles in most, more pink tricams than you can shake a pointed stick at, but that big green monster of a #5 keeps staring me in the eye saying "buy me".... "buy me".... I mean Shit, I already have 3 cams up to and over 6" but it keeps calling my name... What then Mr. Monkey?
Shift the addiciton to PC++
Or smack.
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petsfed
Mar 14, 2008, 3:49 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: granite_grrl wrote: Getting a double rack right away is likely to develop the bad habits of carrying too much gear all the time. Yes And drop the boat anchor. Anything above a #4 is generally a specialty piece.
Where you are. I'm scrambling to get enough old style #5 camalots at the moment.
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moose_droppings
Mar 14, 2008, 4:31 PM
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If your going to double up on medium sizes, get a set of different brand cams in those sizes.
Give your rack and yourself more options.
(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Mar 14, 2008, 5:58 PM)
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