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evanwish
Mar 23, 2008, 5:57 AM
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Lately I've been getting into leading offwidths (but only do short ones because of my current lack of big gear)
I've been curious about falling out of or down an offwidth/squeeze chim and what's the best way to prevent injury...
Anybody here taken a whipper in an offwidth and care to share?
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majid_sabet
Mar 23, 2008, 6:09 AM
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evanwish wrote: Lately I've been getting into leading offwidths (but only do short ones because of my current lack of big gear) I've been curious about falling out of or down an offwidth/squeeze chim and what's the best way to prevent injury... Anybody here taken a whipper in an offwidth and care to share?
Try leading short circuit
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evanwish
Mar 23, 2008, 6:44 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: evanwish wrote: Lately I've been getting into leading offwidths (but only do short ones because of my current lack of big gear) I've been curious about falling out of or down an offwidth/squeeze chim and what's the best way to prevent injury... Anybody here taken a whipper in an offwidth and care to share? Try leading short circuit
where at?
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woland84
Mar 23, 2008, 3:08 PM
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try to stay as close to the outside of the OW as possible so you can fall out of it instead of sliding down the inside.
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angry
Mar 23, 2008, 3:16 PM
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evanwish wrote: majid_sabet wrote: evanwish wrote: Lately I've been getting into leading offwidths (but only do short ones because of my current lack of big gear) I've been curious about falling out of or down an offwidth/squeeze chim and what's the best way to prevent injury... Anybody here taken a whipper in an offwidth and care to share? Try leading short circuit where at?
Short Circuit will teach you as much about offwidth climbing as geometry class taught you about punching hookers.
Majid either meant to say "Generator Crack" or he's on opium.
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angry
Mar 23, 2008, 3:30 PM
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I grew up in Wyoming. In my geometry class there were no opportunities to punch hookers. I realize that in some areas it might be more applicable.
My apologies to anyone who's needed to punch a hooker in geometry class.
Evan, as to falling in OW's.
Just make sure you don't kick the gear you're about to fall on out, it holds.
You observed that many offwidths are cabable of producing ugly falls. Yep. Once you're in gravity, there's not much you can do about that either.
You'll likely not whip in an OW, you'll just slide down to your highest piece very slowly. Almost James Bond shark tank style. It doesn't hurt, but those 2 feet you just spent 45 minutes to gain are gone in a matter of 45 seconds.
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jeff_m
Mar 23, 2008, 4:31 PM
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I'm curious as to what point in our nation's history the "pimp slap" went out of fashion. I know that these days the blunt and simple "punch" is more direct (and effective). I'm guessing it has to do with the "no child left behind" manifest, ergo the removal of "pimp slapping" in geometry classes.
More to the point: Why are you [Evan] worried about falling? All that says to me is that you're not climbing hard enough. Get back on that horse young man and stand proud as you grind the skin off your exposed limbs.
Ah, but I digress. 'Tis Easter and the chocolate bunnies are affecting my brain.
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rangerrob
Mar 23, 2008, 4:38 PM
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Best advice you will hear. Don't fall out of the offwidth and you won't get hurt.
RR
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angry
Mar 23, 2008, 4:44 PM
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jeff_m wrote: I'm curious as to what point in our nation's history the "pimp slap" went out of fashion. I know that these days the blunt and simple "punch" is more direct (and effective). I'm guessing it has to do with the "no child left behind" manifest, ergo the removal of "pimp slapping" in geometry classes. More to the point: Why are you [Evan] worried about falling? All that says to me is that you're not climbing hard enough. Get back on that horse young man and stand proud as you grind the skin off your exposed limbs. Ah, but I digress. 'Tis Easter and the chocolate bunnies are affecting my brain.
http://thosearentmuskets.com/sketches/thepimp.html
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dobson
Mar 23, 2008, 5:07 PM
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In reply to: Don't fall out of the offwidth and you won't get hurt.
Not quite true; I've been limping around due to a lack of skin on my ankles, and I didn't fall. OWs hurt, period.
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gunksgoer
Mar 23, 2008, 5:14 PM
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You could just push a big cam in front of you, its like being on tr.
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lumineferusother
Mar 23, 2008, 6:05 PM
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Wow.......I honestly don't know what to say to that video...
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jeff_m
Mar 23, 2008, 11:15 PM
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evanwish wrote: jeff_m wrote: Why are you [Evan] worried about falling? All that says to me is that you're not climbing hard enough. Get back on that horse young man and stand proud as you grind the skin off your exposed limbs. I took a nasty fall last august and literally shattered my ankle.. it's recovering and i've been back to leading but I'm just dying to lead some more offwidths!! so i've been having to top-rope them 
Glad you're on the mend and are ready to get back in there and suffer. I have developed an off-width mantra over time. It's simple, direct and sums up the experience:
"Aw, ow, fuck! Now what?!"
Use it well.
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lvpyne
Mar 23, 2008, 11:28 PM
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angry wrote: You'll likely not whip in an OW, you'll just slide down to your highest piece very slowly. Almost James Bond shark tank style. It doesn't hurt, but those 2 feet you just spent 45 minutes to gain are gone in a matter of 45 seconds.
And the loss of those two feet and 45 minutes is real pain...
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jeff_m
Mar 23, 2008, 11:35 PM
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angry wrote: jeff_m wrote: "Aw, ow, fuck! Now what?!" Sounds like date night
That's one of the inherent beauties of this particular mantra: works for off-widths, date nights, dental visits, or simply working in a cubicle.
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CaptainPolution
Mar 24, 2008, 3:10 AM
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rangerrob wrote: Best advice you will hear. Don't fall out of the offwidth and you won't get hurt. RR
exactly what I was thinking
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evanwish
Mar 24, 2008, 3:22 AM
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CaptainPolution wrote: rangerrob wrote: Best advice you will hear. Don't fall out of the offwidth and you won't get hurt. RR exactly what I was thinking
but how does that push you to do better and climb harder??
or by "don't fall out" mean it's better to slide down through the offwidth/squeeze chim rather than come out of it?
(This post was edited by evanwish on Mar 24, 2008, 3:24 AM)
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CaptainPolution
Mar 24, 2008, 3:38 AM
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evanwish wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: rangerrob wrote: Best advice you will hear. Don't fall out of the offwidth and you won't get hurt. RR exactly what I was thinking but how does that push you to do better and climb harder?? or by "don't fall out" mean it's better to slide down through the offwidth/squeeze chim rather than come out of it?
how doesnt it? I suck at chimney and o.w. but I sure as hell dont plan on falling out of it. practice makes you better. start leading real rocks dog!
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petsfed
Mar 24, 2008, 3:55 AM
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evanwish wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: rangerrob wrote: Best advice you will hear. Don't fall out of the offwidth and you won't get hurt. RR exactly what I was thinking but how does that push you to do better and climb harder?? or by "don't fall out" mean it's better to slide down through the offwidth/squeeze chim rather than come out of it?
Offwidths are difficult to fall out of, per se. So if you do fall out, you've done something drastically wrong anyway (or you're on such a steep fatty that you should be used to falling by now).
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evanwish
Mar 24, 2008, 4:33 AM
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CaptainPolution wrote: evanwish wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: rangerrob wrote: Best advice you will hear. Don't fall out of the offwidth and you won't get hurt. RR exactly what I was thinking but how does that push you to do better and climb harder?? or by "don't fall out" mean it's better to slide down through the offwidth/squeeze chim rather than come out of it? how doesnt it? I suck at chimney and o.w. but I sure as hell dont plan on falling out of it. practice makes you better. start leading real rocks dog!
so far the biggest piece of gear i have is the #5 BD so i've only been leading offwidths of the stacked hands and knee lock size..
Everything wider than that i've had to top rope..
i got my knee stuck in the rock once while leading an OW. I jamed in my calf so i could move the hand stack and also get a nice no hand rest but somehow i couldnt' get my knee back out... it took at least 10 minutes to get free... :/
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salamanizer
Mar 24, 2008, 4:47 AM
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evanwish wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: evanwish wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: rangerrob wrote: Best advice you will hear. Don't fall out of the offwidth and you won't get hurt. RR exactly what I was thinking but how does that push you to do better and climb harder?? or by "don't fall out" mean it's better to slide down through the offwidth/squeeze chim rather than come out of it? how doesnt it? I suck at chimney and o.w. but I sure as hell dont plan on falling out of it. practice makes you better. start leading real rocks dog! the biggest piece of gear i have is the #5 BD so i've only been leading offwidths of the stacked hands and knee lock size.. Everything wider than that i've had to top rope.. i got my knee stuck in the rock once while leading an OW. I jamed in my calf so i could move the hand stack and also get a nice no hand rest but somehow i couldnt' get my knee back out... it took at least 10 minutes to get free... :/
I could name 10 OW's off the top of my head that don't require gear bigger than a #4, and could probably name at least 50 given time to think about it that are in your local neck of the woods.
I don't think the gear is your issue here.
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angry
Mar 24, 2008, 4:55 AM
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Evan,
Think about typical body position in a squeeze chimney....all of it is in.
You aren't going to fall out. Do you really need to protect a bunch of moves you aren't going to fall out on? Answer with your practical side, not the neurotic I could fall at any moment side.
Chimneys are easy. Anyone who argues different is wrong. Look at the Harding Slot on Astroman. 11b for that pitch. The 5.11 is all in the tight hands to enter the chimney, once in, it's maybe 5.9. You're well protected by .75's for the crux and after that it's casual.
Are 20, 30, 40, and 50 foot runouts scary? Yes a little. Look around for nut placements inside the chimney, don't stress the gear though, climb smoothly, and keep moving.
Don't listen to CaptainPolution, he's talking out his ass.
I've fallen out of offwidths a lot. Just like all climbing, you've got to know when it's ok.
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evanwish
Mar 24, 2008, 4:55 AM
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salamanizer wrote: evanwish wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: evanwish wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: rangerrob wrote: Best advice you will hear. Don't fall out of the offwidth and you won't get hurt. RR exactly what I was thinking but how does that push you to do better and climb harder?? or by "don't fall out" mean it's better to slide down through the offwidth/squeeze chim rather than come out of it? how doesnt it? I suck at chimney and o.w. but I sure as hell dont plan on falling out of it. practice makes you better. start leading real rocks dog! the biggest piece of gear i have is the #5 BD so i've only been leading offwidths of the stacked hands and knee lock size.. Everything wider than that i've had to top rope.. i got my knee stuck in the rock once while leading an OW. I jamed in my calf so i could move the hand stack and also get a nice no hand rest but somehow i couldnt' get my knee back out... it took at least 10 minutes to get free... :/ I could name 10 OW's off the top of my head that don't require gear bigger than a #4, and could probably name at least 50 given time to think about it that are in your local neck of the woods. I don't think the gear is your issue here.
hey salamanizer it's Evan from granite arch (the dude who climbs with Matt sometimes)
yeah i've just been doing all the one's at cosumnes, but i really need to get out and find some more around here or tahoe...
Angry:
Yeah that's great advice i'll definately take to heart... and i guess you're right, can't fall out if all the way in. (and it's not falling from hand stacks that i was worried about)
thanks :)
(This post was edited by evanwish on Mar 24, 2008, 5:00 AM)
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