Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
anchor setup after a traverse?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


mjdoutdoors


Mar 22, 2008, 8:19 PM
Post #1 of 11 (18714 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2007
Posts: 18

anchor setup after a traverse?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I need some opinions.


What is the best anchor set up after a traverse? Example: Leading a crack up to a roof. The crack continues in the corner of the roof to a bolted hanging belay 10ft to the right. After tying in to the anchor with personal protection, I would build an anchor with a cordelette or remaining rope. What direction should the anchor be built? Towards my last piece (which is up and to the left), or in the direction of the hanging belay (down)? All forces will be coming from the direction of my last piece until the second removes that last piece then the force will be straight down in the same direction of the hanging belay. Would it be better to tie into the power point of a Sliding X setup and belaying from my waist? With this, the Power point and I would move as needed. I prefer to belay from a power point of a cordelette, but that would be awkward in the direction of the last piece, then it would change after the last piece was removed. Maybe belaying the second from the P point of a Sliding X (me on separate personal protection to the bolts) as this can change direction after removing the last piece, although this would be still awkward. I don't like using a Sliding X, but is it the best application here? What if the belay is to be built with gear?(assuming good pro)


majid_sabet


Mar 22, 2008, 8:34 PM
Post #2 of 11 (18711 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2002
Posts: 8390

Re: [mjdoutdoors] anchor setup after a traverse? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Whatever you are going to use or build , your anchor better rated to take a minimum of 20KN.

Now each protection is rated for 5 KN ( My standard ) so you should have 4 beefy cams or nut in there in case he falls and takes you down with him.


shockabuku


Mar 22, 2008, 8:56 PM
Post #3 of 11 (18703 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868

Re: [majid_sabet] anchor setup after a traverse? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

majid_sabet wrote:
your anchor better rated to take a minimum of 20KN.

Why?


Partner angry


Mar 22, 2008, 9:06 PM
Post #4 of 11 (18695 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 21, 2003
Posts: 8405

Re: [majid_sabet] anchor setup after a traverse? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

majid_sabet wrote:
Whatever you are going to use or build , your anchor better rated to take a minimum of 20KN.

Now each protection is rated for 5 KN ( My standard ) so you should have 4 beefy cams or nut in there in case he falls and takes you down with him.

I think a good anchor should have a minimum of 4 beefy cams.

I usually use 4 cams, 2 bolts, and an asteroid or tire. I find this to work well.


shockabuku


Mar 22, 2008, 9:46 PM
Post #5 of 11 (18671 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868

Re: [angry] anchor setup after a traverse? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

angry wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
Whatever you are going to use or build , your anchor better rated to take a minimum of 20KN.

Now each protection is rated for 5 KN ( My standard ) so you should have 4 beefy cams or nut in there in case he falls and takes you down with him.

I think a good anchor should have a minimum of 4 beefy cams.

I usually use 4 cams, 2 bolts, and an asteroid or tire. I find this to work well.

I think those work only if you're a cartoon soldier tethered to a tree.


norushnomore


Mar 23, 2008, 1:32 AM
Post #6 of 11 (18651 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 4, 2002
Posts: 414

Re: [shockabuku] anchor setup after a traverse? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Angry is right, 4 cams is a way to go, get Anchors 2, equalette takes 4 cams: for a reason.

Now I am not too sure about bolts, they are not as strong as cams and fall out often, I would skip them in your anchor setup and go for a suction cap backup:



Attaches to most non-porous surfaces


billl7


Mar 23, 2008, 6:27 AM
Post #7 of 11 (18627 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 13, 2005
Posts: 1890

Re: [mjdoutdoors] anchor setup after a traverse? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Quite a few opinions on this in the following thread:

Anchor and belay at end of traverse

Bill L


shockabuku


Mar 23, 2008, 10:00 AM
Post #8 of 11 (18562 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868

Re: [norushnomore] anchor setup after a traverse? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

norushnomore wrote:
Angry is right, 4 cams is a way to go, get Anchors 2, equalette takes 4 cams: for a reason.

That's right. The reason is that 1 divided by 2 divided by two is 1/4. Then each quarter of the equallette gets one piece of pro. However if you read the book instead of just looking at the pictures you should notice that it can accomodate an integer number of anchors at least from 2-4.


Partner gunksgoer


Mar 23, 2008, 10:22 AM
Post #9 of 11 (18554 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 1290

Re: [majid_sabet] anchor setup after a traverse? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

majid_sabet wrote:
Whatever you are going to use or build , your anchor better rated to take a minimum of 20KN.

Now each protection is rated for 5 KN ( My standard ) so you should have 4 beefy cams or nut in there in case he falls and takes you down with him.

Nah, just find a big enough ledge, sit down, dig your heels in and hip belay that mofo. its all you need. If you see any bolts theyre just for hanging your shoes on.


EvilMonkey


Mar 24, 2008, 9:32 PM
Post #10 of 11 (18465 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 19, 2008
Posts: 195

Re: [mjdoutdoors] anchor setup after a traverse? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
get Anchors 2, equalette takes 4 cams
wrong. get climbing anchors 2nd edition. you can build one w/ 3 cams. it's totally acceptable. maybe they made this change in the updated edition. i don't have the old one. i did notice that none of the equalette anchors seem to be built to withstand an upward pull. anybody know why?


moose_droppings


Mar 24, 2008, 10:33 PM
Post #11 of 11 (18455 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371

Re: [mjdoutdoors] anchor setup after a traverse? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

2 bolt anchor?
Anchor yourself with a sliding x (move around if ya want) with limiter knots off the bolts, belay off your harness redirected off the bolt on the side going back to your follower.

3 bolts?
Why the mooselette of course.


(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Mar 24, 2008, 10:41 PM)


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook