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beyond_gravity
Oct 28, 2002, 2:53 PM
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Ok, so i've never done a big wall...but i've read all the haulthing threads...
but i'm wondering, why not use haul with a come-a-long? If would be faster then anything to set up, and would haul faster as well. The only drawback I can think of is that you can't jug up your haul line.
i'm sure it will generate enough for as I can tighten my slackline with one, and I normally use a 6:1 pully for that.
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passthepitonspete
Oct 29, 2002, 1:11 AM
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It was Archimedes who said,
"give me a lever, a place to stand, and I will move the world."
Had he been a big wall climber, he might have said,
"give me a Hauling Ratchet, a strong enough belay station, and I will haul any pig that bugger Dr. Piton can stuff."
Truer words were never spoken.
A Hauling Ratchet does not necessarily have to be a 2:1 - you can make it into a 3:1 by adding another pulley in the "Zed Cord," thus turning it into a "W Cord."
If you click on the Hauling Ratchet post, you will see other suggestions for 3:1 hauling, including some 5:1 and 7:1 setups.
The Petzl catalogue demonstrates a 6:1 Mariner system for hauling people out of crevasses.
Note that it is rare that you will need anything more than 2:1. I have used 3:1 hauling on only a few occasions, these being the first day or two of a lengthy solo. If you bring as much beer and shower water as I do, then you might need to use a 3:1 at some point.
But you probably won't. Anything more than 3:1 is for the Big Wall Theorists.
However the idea of a come-along for big wall hauling is of particular interest to Dr. Piton, considering his experience of late.
BEFORE YOU READ ANY FURTHER, please click here to look at photo #1 of the presentation, which is a photo of the come-along hook. Be sure to read the caption to understand how to rack this hook on your big wall rack in order to maintain redundancy.
Presumably you have returned here after having viewed the first photo.
If you have read this post about how Dr. Piton dropped Tom's pig, then you will realize that Dr. Piton is not always the swiftest dude on two legs.
Sometimes he is downright stupid.
This was one of those times.
Please click here to look at photo #2 of the presentation.
By now you have seen Dr. Piton's mechanical advantage, so I would ask you to please click here to look at photo #3 of the presentation, which is the final photo.
Come-along hauling may well become the future of big wall climbing!
The only thing limiting your load will be your own imagination.
I am Dr. Piton,
and I will be much more careful next time!
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climbsomething
Oct 29, 2002, 1:20 AM
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u 2 cats r funny...
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beyond_gravity
Oct 29, 2002, 1:53 AM
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thats one big f*cking come-a-long, doc! I wouldnt want to carry that...
My come along is much more compact, are weights in at a mere 15 lbs. It's rated to two tons, however, the strap is only 25 feet...but i'm sure somthing can be done.
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beyond_gravity
Oct 29, 2002, 2:03 AM
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Ok, here is my idea...
So your load is still on your haul line, right?
So lets say the haul line is hanging off an upside down ascender that is attached to the anchor. Now you rig the come along to the anchor, and clip another ascender to the "haul clip" of the come-along. Clip some pitons or whatever on the ascender so it will slide down your haul line.
Pull out all the cable to strap from the come-along so the ascender drops down. Now start hauling with the come-along! When the hauling ascender can’t come up anymore, pull the slack in with the ascender on the anchor, and repeat!
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kindredlion
Oct 29, 2002, 3:25 AM
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Wow!
I can't believe I am the first to get to this one!!
[Meanwhile chomping at the bit][tact... remember tact the good Dr. can do it why can't I?]
OK OK dude here's the beta [pffft pffft onna makka spleef].. What you gotta do is [pfft] .. You ever hear of this Far End Hauler thing?... [pfft] you gotta setup sorta like that ... see ... [pfft] Except when your sitting on your pig [pfft].. you get like a .... (pause to stare at a distant refelection) YaH! One of those Grappeling Gun like things that Batman has... All you gotta do is [pfft] aim for a high point with your, come along securely fastened to the grappeling hook(which you tactfully extended back at the bat cave)with a butterfly knot for extra height of course! Once you [pfft] hit your high(he he) point you just crank YOUR SELF AND YOUR PIG up!
Phewph!
Now that I got that out of my system. If I were a little more proficient on the html I would link you a couple of great posts on really how to do things the "better way". But, (you should never start a sentence with But. But) I can tell you that if you go to the search page and type in 2:1 Hauling Ratchet you will find very many useful tidbits of information. Also the UTLIMATE BIG WALL CHECKLIST has many useful links to various exceptionally informative Big Wall Facts. (You see the good Dr. Piton is a fair bit better with 'ol interweb than I, so he can link it up for ya'!) You should also search Load Release Knot, and Docking Tether
One useful FUNDAMENTAL that I feel obliged to point out about your system, is that (code for very big font inserted here) You should NEVER TRUST ANYTHING TO ONLY TOOTHED ASCENDERS. What you need mon ami, is a Compound Pulley like the Protraxion from Petzl or ...one of the others that others like to use... (psst... the Dr. likes to use his tow truck only in summer when he can drive in.. in winter... YAKS!;) )Read up on this and other devices, on the manufacturers website. Petzl has a great site!
So Hopefully I was able to provide some semblance of beta in these mindless banters.
Take Air,
Adam
_________________________________________
editted for some dumbass spelling errors that I can't beleive I missed.
also, I threw in some more smilies.
[ This Message was edited by: kindredlion on 2002-10-28 19:40 ]
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nikegirl
Oct 29, 2002, 5:39 AM
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OMG!!! kindredlion, you rock!!
*roflmao...
so needed a good Pfft...pft... LAUGH!!!!!!!!
oops...I'm in the wrong Forums...
damn Pete : pointin me to his damn ramblings...
Thanks Adam. good one.
T:D
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karlbaba
Oct 29, 2002, 5:52 AM
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Pete, as many of you know, is a larger than life kinda guy, and when he has a wank attack, it's flamboyant as well.
Fortunately, wall climbing teaches you to accept being screwed with equanimity and so we all had a good time. (you should have heard Pete trying to change AAA's mind when they told him they wouldn't come tow him out of my driveway) No wonder he has mysterious power over women. (and I thought it was some hypnotism trick he learned from the back of a comic book. It was his birthday! (Sept 11)so Rick didn't kill him (or maybe Rick is just a nice guy)
Peace
karl
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gunked
Oct 29, 2002, 5:21 PM
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-Jason
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philbox
Moderator
Oct 30, 2002, 12:22 AM
Post #10 of 11
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So Beyond Gravity, get out there on some multi pitch big wall horror show and put all your ideas into practise. Take lotsa photos, write a book and then come back with all the evidence to present here as to the worth of your better way. Go for it mate, it sounds great.
Ooh, I feel sooo baaaad, I really shouldn`t have.
...Phil...
[ This Message was edited by: philbox on 2002-10-29 18:49 ]
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rickoldskool
Oct 30, 2002, 7:02 AM
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...I looked up to see my truck skidding to a stop as Karls exclamation, "What the?" pulled my attention away from the sweet aroma of sauteed onions...
Haaaa.....Haaaaaaaaa..........
Every trip an adventure,
Every adventure an epic.
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