|
|
|
|
mjdoutdoors
Mar 23, 2008, 3:19 AM
Post #1 of 11
(18849 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2007
Posts: 18
|
I need some opinions.
What is the best anchor set up after a traverse? Example: Leading a crack up to a roof. The crack continues in the corner of the roof to a bolted hanging belay 10ft to the right. After tying in to the anchor with personal protection, I would build an anchor with a cordelette or remaining rope. What direction should the anchor be built? Towards my last piece (which is up and to the left), or in the direction of the hanging belay (down)? All forces will be coming from the direction of my last piece until the second removes that last piece then the force will be straight down in the same direction of the hanging belay. Would it be better to tie into the power point of a Sliding X setup and belaying from my waist? With this, the Power point and I would move as needed. I prefer to belay from a power point of a cordelette, but that would be awkward in the direction of the last piece, then it would change after the last piece was removed. Maybe belaying the second from the P point of a Sliding X (me on separate personal protection to the bolts) as this can change direction after removing the last piece, although this would be still awkward. I don't like using a Sliding X, but is it the best application here? What if the belay is to be built with gear?(assuming good pro)
|
|
|
|
|
majid_sabet
Mar 23, 2008, 3:34 AM
Post #2 of 11
(18846 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
|
Whatever you are going to use or build , your anchor better rated to take a minimum of 20KN.
Now each protection is rated for 5 KN ( My standard ) so you should have 4 beefy cams or nut in there in case he falls and takes you down with him.
|
|
|
|
|
shockabuku
Mar 23, 2008, 3:56 AM
Post #3 of 11
(18838 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
|
majid_sabet wrote: your anchor better rated to take a minimum of 20KN.
Why?
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Mar 23, 2008, 4:06 AM
Post #4 of 11
(18830 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
majid_sabet wrote: Whatever you are going to use or build , your anchor better rated to take a minimum of 20KN. Now each protection is rated for 5 KN ( My standard ) so you should have 4 beefy cams or nut in there in case he falls and takes you down with him.
I think a good anchor should have a minimum of 4 beefy cams.
I usually use 4 cams, 2 bolts, and an asteroid or tire. I find this to work well.
|
|
|
|
|
shockabuku
Mar 23, 2008, 4:46 AM
Post #5 of 11
(18806 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
|
angry wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Whatever you are going to use or build , your anchor better rated to take a minimum of 20KN. Now each protection is rated for 5 KN ( My standard ) so you should have 4 beefy cams or nut in there in case he falls and takes you down with him. I think a good anchor should have a minimum of 4 beefy cams. I usually use 4 cams, 2 bolts, and an asteroid or tire. I find this to work well.
I think those work only if you're a cartoon soldier tethered to a tree.
|
|
|
|
|
norushnomore
Mar 23, 2008, 8:32 AM
Post #6 of 11
(18786 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 4, 2002
Posts: 414
|
Angry is right, 4 cams is a way to go, get Anchors 2, equalette takes 4 cams: for a reason.
Now I am not too sure about bolts, they are not as strong as cams and fall out often, I would skip them in your anchor setup and go for a suction cap backup:
Attaches to most non-porous surfaces
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
shockabuku
Mar 23, 2008, 5:00 PM
Post #8 of 11
(18697 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
|
norushnomore wrote: Angry is right, 4 cams is a way to go, get Anchors 2, equalette takes 4 cams: for a reason.
That's right. The reason is that 1 divided by 2 divided by two is 1/4. Then each quarter of the equallette gets one piece of pro. However if you read the book instead of just looking at the pictures you should notice that it can accomodate an integer number of anchors at least from 2-4.
|
|
|
|
|
gunksgoer
Mar 23, 2008, 5:22 PM
Post #9 of 11
(18689 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 1290
|
majid_sabet wrote: Whatever you are going to use or build , your anchor better rated to take a minimum of 20KN. Now each protection is rated for 5 KN ( My standard ) so you should have 4 beefy cams or nut in there in case he falls and takes you down with him.
Nah, just find a big enough ledge, sit down, dig your heels in and hip belay that mofo. its all you need. If you see any bolts theyre just for hanging your shoes on.
|
|
|
|
|
EvilMonkey
Mar 25, 2008, 4:32 AM
Post #10 of 11
(18600 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 19, 2008
Posts: 195
|
In reply to: get Anchors 2, equalette takes 4 cams
|
|
|
|
|
moose_droppings
Mar 25, 2008, 5:33 AM
Post #11 of 11
(18590 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
|
2 bolt anchor?
Anchor yourself with a sliding x (move around if ya want) with limiter knots off the bolts, belay off your harness redirected off the bolt on the side going back to your follower.
3 bolts?
Why the mooselette of course.
(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Mar 25, 2008, 5:41 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
