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majid_sabet
Mar 31, 2008, 11:40 PM
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You guys seen and done plenty of rope pulls to know how those knots will get stuck in some weird crack but, what do you think about taking a regular small empty water bottle, cut the end part , run the rope thru and have the knot placed in the middle of the water bottle,secure the bottle with a small cord so it does not slide down the rope, then pull the rope down !!!!
Who is going to try this to see if it works before I do it myself ?
[URL=http://imageshack.us]
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gunkiemike
Mar 31, 2008, 11:49 PM
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Which does what? It turns an ordinary, flat-sided, well behaved EDK into a perfect, 3-dimensional wedge that is guaranteed to jam in whatever bottleneck it finds itself.
No thanks!
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jt512
Mar 31, 2008, 11:52 PM
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gunkiemike wrote: Which does what? It turns an ordinary, flat-sided, well behaved EDK into a perfect, 3-dimensional wedge that is guaranteed to jam in whatever bottleneck it finds itself. No thanks!
Majid is about to find out why constrictions are called "bottlenecks."
Jay
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irregularpanda
Mar 31, 2008, 11:52 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: Who is going to try this to see if it works before I do it myself ?
Not me, and not anybody else. This is a sad post, really. If you're cragging, stand away from the ground so your rope pulls away from the crack. If you're multi-pitching, pray it doesn't get stuck.
I guess you get to try it first. Use an old rope.
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shimanilami
Mar 31, 2008, 11:53 PM
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I wouldn't want to steal your thunder, Majid. It's all you.
In the interest of scientific rigor, please be sure to incorporate a control condition in your studies. We cannot conclude that your knot protector is accomplishing a thing unless you've demonstrated - with a statistically significant number of replicates, mind you - that the rope will get stuck without it.
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timstich
Apr 1, 2008, 1:52 AM
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What if...
This was instead a plastic sleeve made specifically to cover a knot and tapered down nice and flush with both sides of the rope? Why it's a new do-dad to sell to climbers.
(This post was edited by timstich on Apr 1, 2008, 1:55 AM)
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limeydave
Apr 1, 2008, 4:54 PM
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Majid's Rescue-Kit-In-A-Bottle isn't selling too well.
Gotta find a way to shift the 500 plastic bottles he bought on ebay.
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andrewbanandrew
Apr 1, 2008, 5:05 PM
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oh yeah this will totally work. for added performance, cover the bottle in lube.
Or hell just skip the bottle, cut the end off a lubed condom, and slip that over the knot
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majid_sabet
Apr 1, 2008, 5:56 PM
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limeydave wrote: Majid's Rescue-Kit-In-A-Bottle isn't selling too well. Gotta find a way to shift the 500 plastic bottles he bought on ebay.
Dave
I was going to give you a 10% off on the SOL kit but that deal is off.
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limeydave
Apr 1, 2008, 6:26 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: limeydave wrote: Majid's Rescue-Kit-In-A-Bottle isn't selling too well. Gotta find a way to shift the 500 plastic bottles he bought on ebay. Dave I was going to give you a 10% off on the SOL kit but that deal is off.
I love that name - the Shit-OutOf-Luck Kit.
Post a picture for the gumbies Majid...
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shockabuku
Apr 1, 2008, 6:30 PM
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I've actually done that before (years ago) when slab climbing predominantly to protect the joining knot from abrasion (using a double fisherman's). Not sure how it protects from getting caught in a crack however.
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majid_sabet
Apr 1, 2008, 6:33 PM
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shockabuku wrote: I've actually done that before (years ago) when slab climbing predominantly to protect the joining knot from abrasion (using a double fisherman's). Not sure how it protects from getting caught in a crack however.
This is in use for big wall hauling but I never used it in rapping.
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shockabuku
Apr 1, 2008, 6:37 PM
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Ah, well, big wall hauling is outside my realm of experience.
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carbonrx8
Apr 1, 2008, 6:41 PM
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jt512 wrote: gunkiemike wrote: Which does what? It turns an ordinary, flat-sided, well behaved EDK into a perfect, 3-dimensional wedge that is guaranteed to jam in whatever bottleneck it finds itself. No thanks! Majid is about to find out why constrictions are called "bottlenecks." Jay
That is why you have to have the attached "Bottle Rocket." It's a must have upgrade.
(This post was edited by carbonrx8 on Apr 1, 2008, 6:42 PM)
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knot rocket.jpg
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j_ung
Apr 1, 2008, 6:45 PM
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I don't know about in cracks, but it seems like it might work over slabs with lots of edges and chicken heads, like in Red Rocks. But, do I really want to carry a bottle around with me when other tricks also work? Sorry, champ.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Apr 1, 2008, 6:45 PM)
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summerprophet
Apr 1, 2008, 6:45 PM
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The vast number of ways a rope can get stuck on rappel ensures that there is no device we can add to the rope to avoid it getting stuck.
Experience is key, learn when to be gentle, and when to pull the *#$%er as fast as you can. And when a shorter rappel would actually be beneficial (4rth rap on Royal Arches for example)
If you find the rope does get stuck, hopefully you have both ends to work with, and flick the rope to unstick it. Alternate sides if possible. If that doesn't do the trick, slowly apply more and more force to the rope, while being prepared for the likelyhood of rockfall.
If it is still there, rack up and get prepared to relead the pitch on the ends you have OR prussik the stuck line, using gear and the usable ends to protect yourself.
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majid_sabet
Apr 1, 2008, 6:45 PM
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carbonrx8 wrote: jt512 wrote: gunkiemike wrote: Which does what? It turns an ordinary, flat-sided, well behaved EDK into a perfect, 3-dimensional wedge that is guaranteed to jam in whatever bottleneck it finds itself. No thanks! Majid is about to find out why constrictions are called "bottlenecks." Jay That is why you have to have the attached "Bottle Rocket." It's a must have upgrade. [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/forum/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=2052;[/image]
That is a patent violation. I will sue your as* in court and get all of your climbing gear
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JohnCook
Apr 1, 2008, 6:50 PM
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Many years ago in Europe a smooth sleeve could be bought to perform the exact task that is being talked about. It didn't stop the knot jamming in a tight crack, but did reduce friction against slabs, and reduce the risk of the rope sticking in shallow notches between chockstones etc. It was designed to use with a double fishermans type knot, not the funny overhand knot you guys in the US call the EDK. Must admit I have only seen the EDK used in Europe by Aussie and US climbers. The few extra seconds to tie a double fishermans is worth the effort.
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acorneau
Apr 1, 2008, 6:51 PM
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What about some kind of hard plastic clamshell thingy?
(I'm no Majit, but here's a quickie drawing.)
(This post was edited by acorneau on Apr 1, 2008, 6:53 PM)
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Knot clamshell
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shockabuku
Apr 1, 2008, 7:13 PM
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JohnCook wrote: ...you guys in the US...
Says the guy from Texas.
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JohnCook
Apr 1, 2008, 7:41 PM
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Can't help it if it's better to live in the US than the UK.
It's a pity I can't live nearer some good climbing, (3.5H without breaking a speed limit). Am trying to blend in down here, but have problems with people understanding English, and they seem to have a lack of sense of humour, although I am getting them trained
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limeydave
Apr 1, 2008, 7:53 PM
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JohnCook wrote: Can't help it if it's better to live in the US than the UK. It's a pity I can't live nearer some good climbing, (3.5H without breaking a speed limit). Am trying to blend in down here, but have problems with people understanding English, and they seem to have a lack of sense of humour, although I am getting them trained
Haha, you speak the truth. Even ordering a Big Mac at the drivethru I have to repeat myself more often than not.
How hard can it be? BIG...MAC...
Two countries divided by a common language.
Still, I'd rather be here than there.
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dingus
Apr 1, 2008, 8:39 PM
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A little sleeved battery ooperated rope crawler robot with retractable spider legs.
You slip it on the stuck rope, ya with me. You close the gate and turn the thing on. Little wheels inside the sleeve engage the rope and the little bugger motors up the rope like a self-powered jumar.
You lift the rope to help it over obstructions. You have a small console like the RC Flyers use?
When you get to the obstruction the little guy has a tiny fiber optics camera like the ones they send up your ass. You can see what's what, dig?
Then you use the little spider armrs to lever the knot out of the constriction and the wheels combined with your contined sawing back and forth on each end of the rope.
Little Buggar (Tm) lifts the rope up and you pull. Little Bugger zips back down the rope to you when its done the job, viola.
15, 20 k each, a working protorype should be within reach of today's technology.
How bad you want yer fucking ropes back?
DMT
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acorneau
Apr 1, 2008, 9:16 PM
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dingus wrote: A little sleeved battery ooperated rope crawler robot with retractable spider legs. You slip it on the stuck rope, ya with me. You close the gate and turn the thing on. Little wheels inside the sleeve engage the rope and the little bugger motors up the rope like a self-powered jumar. 15, 20 k each, a working protorype should be within reach of today's technology.
Sorry, Bro. They already made it:
http://www.powerquickinc.com/
(Well, not exactly, but close!)
(This post was edited by acorneau on Apr 1, 2008, 9:17 PM)
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