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majid_sabet
Apr 8, 2008, 4:47 PM
Post #26 of 39
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Take $16.00 of your money and buy two small light weight FRS radio and get it over with .
It works, it is safe and it will save your as*
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no_email_entered
Apr 8, 2008, 4:53 PM
Post #27 of 39
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majid_sabet wrote: Take $16.00 of your money and buy two small light weight FRS radio and get it over with . It works, it is safe and it will save your as*
it will save your asterisk?
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CaptainPolution
Apr 8, 2008, 7:16 PM
Post #28 of 39
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no_email_entered wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: in 1981 kiss played with big brother and the dead at the filmore. that was their first show because they had gotten together just two days before. and that is how kiss was born dude i dont know what your smokin, but you are sooooo wrong--- ---it was the Avalon Ballroom
oh, my bad.
as for communication...
I have used radios but that doesnt work whe your partner drops it fromt he 3rd pitch. rope tug works way better. or if its really a big issue maybe belay from a closer spot, it would make for more pitches but at least you could hear your partner
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austin.timm
Apr 8, 2008, 7:53 PM
Post #29 of 39
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majid_sabet wrote: Take $16.00 of your money and buy two small light weight FRS radio and get it over with . It works, it is safe and it will save your as*
Majid... Why would you even bother telling me that in a reply? Clearly I have some radios already since I wrote about using them on an alpine climb...
I don't get you one bit man... Seems to me you're pretty quick to open your mouth to comment on me without even reading my entire post.
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hafilax
Apr 8, 2008, 8:20 PM
Post #30 of 39
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Registered: Dec 12, 2007
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I use Dingus' method.
When in doubt, belay the rope out to the end. Wait a bit. Dismantle the anchor. Wait a bit more. Start climbing. If the slack doesn't go away make sure you're comfortable and hope it goes up soon.
When leading. Get the second on belay as soon as possible.
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majid_sabet
Apr 8, 2008, 8:54 PM
Post #31 of 39
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austin.timm wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Take $16.00 of your money and buy two small light weight FRS radio and get it over with . It works, it is safe and it will save your as* Majid... Why would you even bother telling me that in a reply? Clearly I have some radios already since I wrote about using them on an alpine climb... I don't get you one bit man... Seems to me you're pretty quick to open your mouth to comment on me without even reading my entire post.
Austin
take is easy
I only replied to OP's comment and did not quote on your last reply.
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irregularpanda
Apr 9, 2008, 3:18 AM
Post #32 of 39
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Registered: Mar 13, 2007
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no_email_entered wrote: majid_sabet wrote: Take $16.00 of your money and buy two small light weight FRS radio and get it over with . It works, it is safe and it will save your as* it will save your asterisk?
I don't care for my asterisk, I want to save my ampersand.
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marc801
Apr 9, 2008, 5:19 AM
Post #33 of 39
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CaptainPolution wrote: dingus wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: packclimber wrote: K.I.S.S. = Keep it simple Stupid packclimber no, kiss was a gnarly 80's band that painted their faces and worshiped the devil himself. their legend lives with detroit rock city. west siiedddddeeeeeeeeeeeee 70s actually. DMT no dude, it was 1980's. i remember it like it was yesterday
Kiss is an American rock band formed in New York City in January 1973. Easily identified by their trademark face paint and stage outfits, the group rose to prominence in the mid-1970s on the basis of their elaborate live performances,...Due to creative differences, both Criss and Frehley were out of the group by 1982. The band's commercial fortunes had also waned considerably by that point.
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Truck
Apr 9, 2008, 8:54 PM
Post #34 of 39
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Registered: Jul 6, 2007
Posts: 67
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More importantly....Gene Simmons has slept with thousands of chicks......Dude!
Truck
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pindrvr75
Apr 9, 2008, 8:55 PM
Post #35 of 39
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Registered: Nov 3, 2005
Posts: 77
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My long term climbing partner and I utilize the following system:
Once the leader is no longer within line of sight of the belay, the belayer assumes a heightened awareness to prepare for a fall. The leader now must give a steady pull for slack and move in small increments. When the belayer feels a steady pull, he pays out one or two armlengths of slack, locks off and waits for the next pull. If the rope is nearing the end, the belayer will respond to a pull with a steady pull similar to that which he feels. The leader should feel the resistance and start looking for the next anchoring station. Once the leader constructs the next station and has the second on belay, he pulls on the rope staccato like for several seconds to alert his belayer that he is now on belay. He then waits for the same signal from his second and then pulls up the slack. Patience here is critical. If a signal is not clear, simply wait a bit until one gets a clear signal. The key to this system working well is to be able to feel how your leader is moving. If you are the leader, being aware that your movement is curtailed by small steady increments prevailing over making leaps of faith or other rough types of egress until one has the benefit of line of sight. If one does not have the benefit of good communication...slow it down.
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CaptainPolution
Apr 9, 2008, 9:29 PM
Post #36 of 39
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Registered: Jul 10, 2007
Posts: 330
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marc801 wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: dingus wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: packclimber wrote: K.I.S.S. = Keep it simple Stupid packclimber no, kiss was a gnarly 80's band that painted their faces and worshiped the devil himself. their legend lives with detroit rock city. west siiedddddeeeeeeeeeeeee 70s actually. DMT no dude, it was 1980's. i remember it like it was yesterday No, it really was the 70's. From the Wiki entry: Kiss is an American rock band formed in New York City in January 1973. Easily identified by their trademark face paint and stage outfits, the group rose to prominence in the mid-1970s on the basis of their elaborate live performances,...Due to creative differences, both Criss and Frehley were out of the group by 1982. The band's commercial fortunes had also waned considerably by that point.
straight trolled to the max my friend. better luck next time
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marc801
Apr 9, 2008, 9:37 PM
Post #37 of 39
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CaptainPolution wrote: straight trolled to the max my friend. better luck next time
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EvilMonkey
Apr 10, 2008, 1:16 AM
Post #38 of 39
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Registered: Mar 19, 2008
Posts: 195
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CaptainPolution wrote: marc801 wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: dingus wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: packclimber wrote: K.I.S.S. = Keep it simple Stupid packclimber no, kiss was a gnarly 80's band that painted their faces and worshiped the devil himself. their legend lives with detroit rock city. west siiedddddeeeeeeeeeeeee 70s actually. DMT no dude, it was 1980's. i remember it like it was yesterday No, it really was the 70's. From the Wiki entry: Kiss is an American rock band formed in New York City in January 1973. Easily identified by their trademark face paint and stage outfits, the group rose to prominence in the mid-1970s on the basis of their elaborate live performances,...Due to creative differences, both Criss and Frehley were out of the group by 1982. The band's commercial fortunes had also waned considerably by that point.straight trolled to the max my friend. better luck next time 
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misterpatrick
Apr 10, 2008, 8:52 PM
Post #39 of 39
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Registered: Jan 11, 2006
Posts: 9
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I really like radios. My partner and I just started using them this season after having some issues last season on long climbs where the combination of wind and rope-drag rendered rope signals and shouting pretty useless. Besides, radios make for a nice quiet climbing experience. So many people are always shouting...
"Safe!"
"What?!"
"Off belay!"
"Off what, are you good?"
"What?!"
"Are you off?"
etc.....
But of course radios fail in equally spectacular ways as we learned when I heard a bunch of squealing on my and immediately transmitted "Did you just drop your radio?" only to be met with no response.
Which in a way I guess shows how effective they really are.
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