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jeapord
Apr 10, 2008, 2:30 PM
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All the finger strength threads I've read are started by new climbers.
I want some real answers.
What have you found, Mr. 13 or 14 climber, that has given you the biggest jump in tendon strength.
I use a campus board with 6-8 lbs of weight in my pockets with no incuts, as well as some short 2 X 6 blocks on a 45 degree wall with no incuts. I have only been doing it this way for about 2 months, but I've trained my tendons in a variety of other ways, but this gets me the most fatigued. I have noticed a large difference in my contact strength as well as deadpoint accuracy increases.
Never been injured or even had finger pain before, I have very large joints naturally so I don't think I'm prone to injury, and I've pushed my tendons pretty damn hard.
The only reason I'm asking this is because no one at my gym trains for tendons except my girlfriend.
(This post was edited by jeapord on Apr 10, 2008, 4:17 PM)
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rjtrials
Apr 10, 2008, 2:57 PM
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Quit training and start projecting. You seem strong enough.
I have weaksauce fingers, cant campus worth shit, and have zero one-arm lockoff ability. Yet, I can somehow trick my way up most hard climbs by a combination of being stubborn and smart...
RJ
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jeapord
Apr 10, 2008, 4:24 PM
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Ryan
You are most likely right. I haven't been on anything lately that I couldn't do in 5 or less tries (not trying to come off as arrogant). I just don't really know any exceptionally strong climbers so I don't know what I'm supposed to do. But I think finding a project would be optimal at this point.
thanks
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altelis
Apr 10, 2008, 4:56 PM
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tendons DO NOT get appreciably stronger
ever
they just don't
sorry
edited for spelling, d'oh
(This post was edited by altelis on Apr 10, 2008, 4:57 PM)
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jeapord
Apr 10, 2008, 5:00 PM
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I'm not that naive. Damn.
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seatbeltpants
Apr 10, 2008, 8:00 PM
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jeapord wrote: I'm not that naive. Damn.
er, wasn't your question "What have you found, Mr. 13 or 14 climber, that has given you the biggest jump in tendon strength. "???
steve
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zenelky
Apr 10, 2008, 8:09 PM
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I just think you're too short to ever climb a 5.13. That's all there is to it.
Maybe you need better shoes.
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axelvanettinger
Apr 10, 2008, 8:13 PM
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I think all the mr. 13 and 14 climbers are climbing now that's how they train their tendons!!! and there's ur answer... While climbing many different things u will train ur tendons, that's how mister 13 does it!
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zeke_sf
Apr 10, 2008, 8:46 PM
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Only a handful more posters and you'll have 13+ climbers in here... good luck!
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robinson_321
Apr 11, 2008, 1:44 AM
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If you stick to your regimine you should see improvement. It just takes longer than two months unless your a super talent. Do, two or three years and then look for improvement. The weight might hurt you. Your body isnt invinceable. In your career to getting stronger you will injure almost every pulley tendon you have. Its inevitable. Being gym strong doesnt mean shit outside. Go to rock town or hueco and try and prove yourself. Bouldering will give you the training you need. Try campusing on smaller holds and then try both sizes with only 2 or three fingers. Work lockoff strength at all angles. Try locking off on small crimps. Do tons of core strength excercizes. My training methods are just to boulder for strength and then do routes for technique. Have fun good luck.
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flint
Apr 11, 2008, 2:07 AM
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#11 get this guy two more....
j-
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jmvc
Apr 11, 2008, 3:10 PM
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Climber nº12
And I'm over 13
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socalbolter
Apr 12, 2008, 2:56 AM
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It's a dangerous game to train specifically for "tendon" strength.
Be very careful not to over do it, especially if you have thin fingers (translates to thinner tendons usually when looking at things proportionally), you could train yourself straight into an injury.
Most guys I know who are climbing at the levels you're seeking climb quite often and have for at least a few years. This constant exposure to somewhat intense finger usage gives a well-rounded training without isolating things too repetitively.
Climb a lot and when you are putting together your indoor routine spend some time on recruitment type exercises (campusing and other dynamic exercises) on crimps and edges (or really any hold type that uses the last phlange or two of your fingers.
Many of the other suggestions posted by others above (core workouts, footwork, etc.) are key to high end climbing also, but have nothing to do with your question about training tendon strength.
By the way, I also been told (and somewhat believe) that you can't really do too much to strengthen the actual tendons. Instead, by repeatedly straining them, you'll strengthen the connective tissue and muscles around and attached to them. From what I can gather the tendon itself doesn't change a whole lot.
Maybe PM fluxus on this site regarding this. He's very knowledgeable when it comes to this kind of thing.
Good luck on your path to harder climbing.
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jmvc
Apr 12, 2008, 8:28 AM
Post #14 of 21
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socalbolter wrote: It's a dangerous game to train specifically for "tendon" strength. Be very careful not to over do it, especially if you have thin fingers (translates to thinner tendons usually when looking at things proportionally), you could train yourself straight into an injury. Most guys I know who are climbing at the levels you're seeking climb quite often and have for at least a few years. This constant exposure to somewhat intense finger usage gives a well-rounded training without isolating things too repetitively. Climb a lot and when you are putting together your indoor routine spend some time on recruitment type exercises (campusing and other dynamic exercises) on crimps and edges (or really any hold type that uses the last phlange or two of your fingers. Many of the other suggestions posted by others above (core workouts, footwork, etc.) are key to high end climbing also, but have nothing to do with your question about training tendon strength. By the way, I also been told (and somewhat believe) that you can't really do too much to strengthen the actual tendons. Instead, by repeatedly straining them, you'll strengthen the connective tissue and muscles around and attached to them. From what I can gather the tendon itself doesn't change a whole lot. Maybe PM fluxus on this site regarding this. He's very knowledgeable when it comes to this kind of thing. Good luck on your path to harder climbing.
In agreement with this, but I believe campusing (and indeed hanging) on crimps to train fingers is not recommended, as you can injure yourself with more ease, and by training on open hand holds, you also increase your crimp strength..
Not that I am an expert on the subject..
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Quis
Apr 12, 2008, 8:32 PM
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I posted this in another thread but it works here too.
Don't worry so much about power and getting strong, a great climber just knows how to hold the rock where to step and how to move. If you get to strong to fast you power through moves when to you could use less power and flow through them. Slow down and just climb. Trust me, I have been for 22 years it is not about power at first that comes later don't rush it. I did when I was younger and could barely do a 5.11 Now I am 40 and climb 5.13. Think of it as learning to play an instrument to much power is like teaching yourself to play it. You can go a long way, but if you learned something wrong it suck to try to change the bad habit. Eric J. Horst has a few great books on training look into those. Oh an just find a finger tip edge you can hold and hang for as long as you can. Don't over do any training but if you can do three sets you should be OK. But the best training for climbing is climbing!!!!!
Chris
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socalbolter
Apr 12, 2008, 10:30 PM
Post #16 of 21
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jmvc wrote: socalbolter wrote: It's a dangerous game to train specifically for "tendon" strength. Be very careful not to over do it, especially if you have thin fingers (translates to thinner tendons usually when looking at things proportionally), you could train yourself straight into an injury. Most guys I know who are climbing at the levels you're seeking climb quite often and have for at least a few years. This constant exposure to somewhat intense finger usage gives a well-rounded training without isolating things too repetitively. Climb a lot and when you are putting together your indoor routine spend some time on recruitment type exercises (campusing and other dynamic exercises) on crimps and edges (or really any hold type that uses the last phlange or two of your fingers. Many of the other suggestions posted by others above (core workouts, footwork, etc.) are key to high end climbing also, but have nothing to do with your question about training tendon strength. By the way, I also been told (and somewhat believe) that you can't really do too much to strengthen the actual tendons. Instead, by repeatedly straining them, you'll strengthen the connective tissue and muscles around and attached to them. From what I can gather the tendon itself doesn't change a whole lot. Maybe PM fluxus on this site regarding this. He's very knowledgeable when it comes to this kind of thing. Good luck on your path to harder climbing. In agreement with this, but I believe campusing (and indeed hanging) on crimps to train fingers is not recommended, as you can injure yourself with more ease, and by training on open hand holds, you also increase your crimp strength.. Not that I am an expert on the subject..
Hence my warning at the beginning of my post not to overdo it.
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jeapord
Apr 13, 2008, 10:45 PM
Post #17 of 21
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Quis wrote: I posted this in another thread but it works here too. Don't worry so much about power and getting strong, a great climber just knows how to hold the rock where to step and how to move. If you get to strong to fast you power through moves when to you could use less power and flow through them. Slow down and just climb. Trust me, I have been for 22 years it is not about power at first that comes later don't rush it. I did when I was younger and could barely do a 5.11 Now I am 40 and climb 5.13. Think of it as learning to play an instrument to much power is like teaching yourself to play it. You can go a long way, but if you learned something wrong it suck to try to change the bad habit. Eric J. Horst has a few great books on training look into those. Oh an just find a finger tip edge you can hold and hang for as long as you can. Don't over do any training but if you can do three sets you should be OK. But the best training for climbing is climbing!!!!! Chris
I try not to power through moves that don't need it. If I make a move in bad style or technique I will take and figure out the smoothest way possible to do it. This is a much more efficient way to climb and build muscle memory rather than just blindly hurling myself at the next hold.
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SkipperV
Apr 13, 2008, 11:10 PM
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Make sure that if you are campusing on smaller holds(which is safe as long as you warm up properly) that you do it somewhat close to the beginning of your workout, seeing as most injuries occur when you are most fatigued. After you do your capusing on smaller holds move to larger open hand ones.
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jmvc
Apr 14, 2008, 8:31 AM
Post #19 of 21
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socalbolter wrote: jmvc wrote: socalbolter wrote: It's a dangerous game to train specifically for "tendon" strength. Be very careful not to over do it, especially if you have thin fingers (translates to thinner tendons usually when looking at things proportionally), you could train yourself straight into an injury. Most guys I know who are climbing at the levels you're seeking climb quite often and have for at least a few years. This constant exposure to somewhat intense finger usage gives a well-rounded training without isolating things too repetitively. Climb a lot and when you are putting together your indoor routine spend some time on recruitment type exercises (campusing and other dynamic exercises) on crimps and edges (or really any hold type that uses the last phlange or two of your fingers. Many of the other suggestions posted by others above (core workouts, footwork, etc.) are key to high end climbing also, but have nothing to do with your question about training tendon strength. By the way, I also been told (and somewhat believe) that you can't really do too much to strengthen the actual tendons. Instead, by repeatedly straining them, you'll strengthen the connective tissue and muscles around and attached to them. From what I can gather the tendon itself doesn't change a whole lot. Maybe PM fluxus on this site regarding this. He's very knowledgeable when it comes to this kind of thing. Good luck on your path to harder climbing. In agreement with this, but I believe campusing (and indeed hanging) on crimps to train fingers is not recommended, as you can injure yourself with more ease, and by training on open hand holds, you also increase your crimp strength.. Not that I am an expert on the subject.. Hence my warning at the beginning of my post not to overdo it.
Why do it at all if you can obtain the same benefits with less injury-prone methods?
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phUnk
Apr 15, 2008, 9:22 PM
Post #20 of 21
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jmvc wrote: In agreement with this, but I believe campusing (and indeed hanging) on crimps to train fingers is not recommended, as you can injure yourself with more ease, and by training on open hand holds, you also increase your crimp strength..
It is really that backwards bend that is dangerous (because of the tremendous leverage it creates on the pulleys), not so much the small size or shape of the hold.
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sungam
Apr 16, 2008, 10:50 AM
Post #21 of 21
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what ever happened to rockprodigy's guide to training?
That was chocka full of good advice.
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