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quiteatingmysteak
Apr 13, 2008, 2:51 AM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 804
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HELLO FELLOW HEXMASTERS I BEQUEITH (??? THAT A WORD???) YER WIZDOM!!! I've got a butt load of spare time coming up that I'll be spending in the mongoloid valley. And my offhands/tight hands technique sucks. What would y'all recommend for pumping laps on? Preferably something that is convieniantly solo TR'd or bouldered, but it seems when I go out there i wuss out and stick to finger cracks and face routes... I need to get my ass in handshape! Like I said my technique sucks, so something ~.7 to ~.10dish would be in my range. Woot!
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mountainstuss
Apr 13, 2008, 11:32 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 123
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Alice in Wonderjam is 5.9 various hands and rarely do people go out there. But now that I think about it, I'm not sure you can scramble to the top of that one. But Comic Book and White Rabbit are in the neighborhood and worth climbing fer sher.
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hosh
Apr 14, 2008, 12:00 AM
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Damper in the hidden valley campground is a real beaut. 5.9, rather wide, nice line. You should be able to find someone in the valley to belay... hosh.
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esoteric1
Apr 14, 2008, 1:14 AM
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Registered: Oct 8, 2002
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semi tough in the real hidden valley, locker jams all the way up, then go run over and get on fisticuffs... and if not, theres a billion other ones go crank, look around for that trad training list that starts at 6 and goes up to 12s, its a pretty long list and all of the climbs are good
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quiteatingmysteak
Apr 14, 2008, 4:50 AM
Post #6 of 17
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Thanks dude, you're the man! Just got back. Couldn't stand San Diego, 90 degrees. much better to climb in the shade. Hands sweating up again... ready to head out. Did Doctor michael goes to something something.... and a few more in that area. Good routes there, double dogleg and smithereens. Surprised I hadn't bothered to take a look at 'em. Thanks for your reply, duders! Stop by Nomad they will give you a free T-Shirt, on me. $15 handling fee, of course. :D
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cchas
Apr 14, 2008, 2:28 PM
Post #7 of 17
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Registered: Jun 9, 2005
Posts: 344
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Short and given 5.11a on this site and 5.11c in the book, but Heart of Darkness is really 5.10d. as splitter hands as Josh gets but unfortunately really short (like 30-35') (off/tight hands). Rubicon is a good training route also.
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ksolem
Apr 15, 2008, 3:09 PM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2003
Posts: 126
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That scma list is a joke. “ …as one ticks each of the climbs in this particular order… “ The basic premise is to first tr each route into submission, then lead it on preplaced gear and then lead it “without flailing?” Then call it a “tick??!!” So the idea is to work your way through all the best cracks in Josh without once actually trying to onsight lead anything.. ? Halfway to Paradise and Swept Away are crack climbs? And these routes are in order of difficulty? Double Cross comes before Mental Physics? Pat Adams Dihedral is before Coarse and Buggy? Hot Rocks before Heart of Shortness? Scary Monsters and Hidden Arch before Wangerbanger? Someone should do more climbing and less list making.
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irregularpanda
Apr 15, 2008, 3:23 PM
Post #9 of 17
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Registered: Mar 13, 2007
Posts: 1364
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strawberry jam on outhouse rock. think about the anchor/directional thoroughly before soloing.
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quiteatingmysteak
Apr 15, 2008, 3:44 PM
Post #10 of 17
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ksolem wrote: That scma list is a joke. “ …as one ticks each of the climbs in this particular order… “ The basic premise is to first tr each route into submission, then lead it on preplaced gear and then lead it “without flailing?” Then call it a “tick??!!” So the idea is to work your way through all the best cracks in Josh without once actually trying to onsight lead anything.. ? Halfway to Paradise and Swept Away are crack climbs? And these routes are in order of difficulty? Double Cross comes before Mental Physics? Pat Adams Dihedral is before Coarse and Buggy? Hot Rocks before Heart of Shortness? Scary Monsters and Hidden Arch before Wangerbanger? Someone should do more climbing and less list making. Woah there! Just asking for a list of a few thin to offhand sized cracks I could train on with my time off. I don't really mind if one is really 5.7+ instead of 5.8 or 5.10a/b or 5.10b. hehe. I actualy have never lead a traditionally protected route on pre-placed gear. Not because I'm a purist... but because when you lead the route you won't be placing gear in any of the places you would if you have a healthy TR on. Makes for bad form.
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camhead
Apr 15, 2008, 4:06 PM
Post #11 of 17
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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I'm confused as to why someone would actually NEED a "handcrack training circuit." I mean, you stick your hand in, flex, and that's it. It would be like having a "walk across the street to by a burrito" circuit, or a "sit down and watch American Idol" circuit. I mean, why does BD even make gold camalots?
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trenchdigger
Apr 15, 2008, 4:20 PM
Post #12 of 17
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Registered: Mar 9, 2003
Posts: 1447
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Screw JTree, go to Woodson and run laps on The Crucible, Jaws, Bat Flake, Robbins, Sickle, Out of Sight, Poison Oak Crack, Manuel's Horror, Monkey Crack, Slant Crack, Rockwork Orange, etc...
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ksolem
Apr 15, 2008, 4:38 PM
Post #13 of 17
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Registered: Jun 30, 2003
Posts: 126
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Sorry Dude... my remarks were directed at that list, not you... Have fun!
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microfracture
Apr 15, 2008, 4:48 PM
Post #14 of 17
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Registered: Nov 17, 2005
Posts: 8
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ksolem wrote: That scma list is a joke. “ THE SCMA IS VERY SERIOUS ORGANIZATION. NOT EVERY BODY CAN BE A MEMBER. YOU HAVE TO PASS MANY TESTS AND BE VOTED IN. THEY DO TRADITIONAL CLIMBING. THEY ALWAYS WEAR THEIR HELMENTS AND TIE IN AT THE BASE OF THE CLIFF. THEY WOULD NEVER PUBLISH A LIST OF CLIMBS AS A JOKE. THEY ARE TOO SERIOUS FOR THAT.
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camhead
Apr 15, 2008, 6:40 PM
Post #15 of 17
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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oh, and I should add that I really enjoyed Wanger Banger as a hands/thin hands/ringlocks crack.
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quiteatingmysteak
Apr 16, 2008, 12:21 AM
Post #16 of 17
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 804
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trenchdigger wrote: Screw JTree, go to Woodson and run laps on The Crucible, Jaws, Bat Flake, Robbins, Sickle, Out of Sight, Poison Oak Crack, Manuel's Horror, Monkey Crack, Slant Crack, Rockwork Orange, etc... You're right on the money there! Done most of those, for sure! Pretty much an entrance exam to san diego climbing is hauling your ass up to the top and flailing, er, SENDING (but really flailing) Crucible. Poison Oak Crack was, like, my second gear lead ever... I was about 17 years old and I learned a valuable lesson. You missed Baby robbins, great warm-up! However, since I'll be in Josh for quite a bit, and rarely have days off to run up the hill and crank on those slippery jams, I gotta play with what I got, yah know? And the climbing is just... different in josh. Good friction, big flares, a whole 'nother taste. You're absolutely right when you point out Woodson, anyone in 'the know' (still trying to figure out how to apply for 'the know') has paid their dues in Poway :D Anyhoo. SCMA is also a leading recruiter for the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints of the Second Circle of the Dragonsbane, so not a bad organization if your soul and 30% of your paycheck are easy to part with.
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fresh
Apr 16, 2008, 1:20 PM
Post #17 of 17
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Registered: Aug 7, 2007
Posts: 1199
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camhead wrote: I mean, why does BD even make gold camalots? brilliant
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