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fireoretire
Apr 17, 2008, 8:28 PM
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Registered: Feb 25, 2008
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Does anyone have any general beta on this route? I'm curious to how long/hard the run outs are. Also are most of the anchors bolted? Does the route see much traffic? Thanks!
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majid_sabet
Apr 17, 2008, 8:34 PM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
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Check with the park. Area may be is still closed due to rockfalls
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clintcummins
Apr 17, 2008, 9:05 PM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2002
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> I'm curious to how long/hard the run outs are.
There is a runout 5.8 move on p4, about 10' above the first bolt. p5 is a long 5.7 traverse to the right, where you should first climb up to clip a hidden fixed pin, and then back down to do the traverse. There are some bolts at the end of the traverse, then a 5.8 move before it gets easier. The next pitch has some smooth 5.9 past 3 bolts, then a long easy (5.0) runout traverse to the left.
> Also are most of the anchors bolted?
Yes (or fixed pins). Anchors for the first few easy pitches are not fixed.
> Does the route see much traffic?
No. It gets less traffic than the routes on the Grack, or the Harry Daley area, for example.
You should wait for the snow to melt off the rim before doing this route. Otherwise you could get some rockfall from above.
The Apron is not closed by the NPS, although they have an advisory to not climb there. I have done this route several times. A couple of my friends went to do it last year and a rock came flying down close to them, so they bailed.
One time I did this route after doing the Free Blast the previous day, and we felt a bit sketched on some of the pitches!
There is a rappel route down the left side of Goodrich Pinnacle, although some of the bolts/chains are rusty, and there is one section where you have to downclimb easy ground to get to the final rap anchor. This rappel route should get fixed up this summer when Roger Brown returns for some more Apron rebolting.
(This post was edited by clintcummins on Apr 17, 2008, 9:15 PM)
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potreroed
Apr 17, 2008, 9:16 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
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I remember going straight up instead of traversing right which made for a loooong runout. It's OK as long as you keep moving and don't even think about protection. Great route.
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majid_sabet
Apr 17, 2008, 9:27 PM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
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I was climbing with a partner a week before that rockfall in the same area in early 2000. I would not mess with that area. Every time I hike up to Vernal, I always hear some thing falling down from Apron.
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Apr 17, 2008, 11:14 PM)
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fireoretire
Apr 17, 2008, 10:30 PM
Post #6 of 10
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Registered: Feb 25, 2008
Posts: 21
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I have climbed Harry Daley and the grack before. Does this route happen to be in the actual rock fall zone?
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matttt
Apr 19, 2008, 11:10 PM
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Registered: Jul 14, 2006
Posts: 84
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sorry i can't be of too much assistance. but i do remember it was a quality climb and not that scary. i also recall scoring a brand new HB offset on it..WOO HOO!
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pentapitch
Apr 20, 2008, 11:21 PM
Post #9 of 10
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Registered: Mar 15, 2004
Posts: 36
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my mate and i climbed it about 7 years ago. the rock is good quality, but at the time, some of the belays were a bit dodgy.
i didnt know you were supposed to move right, up and left on the crux pitch and had a very long runout (as mentioned above).
the rap seemed to be ok, as i remember.
maybe, the belays have been upgraded since then.
i thought it was a good route and would do it again.
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karlbaba
Apr 20, 2008, 11:23 PM
Post #10 of 10
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Registered: Jul 10, 2002
Posts: 1159
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Belays are the same as seven years ago but don't think they are much of an issue. I'm heavy enough and do the route every year
PEace
karl
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