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where did you learn how to trad lead climb
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jaybro


Apr 16, 2008, 6:06 PM
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Re: [dingus] where did you learn how to trad lead climb [In reply to]
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That was too, funny, and at the same time poignant, Dingus!


Partner j_ung


Apr 16, 2008, 6:54 PM
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Re: [alexschultz1] where did you learn how to trad lead climb [In reply to]
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alexschultz1 wrote:
Im 18 years old and would like to live out the rest of my life out of a wheel chair...

Heh heh... never underestimate the value of "n't". Wink


karmiclimber


Apr 17, 2008, 12:07 AM
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Re: [alexschultz1] where did you learn how to trad lead climb [In reply to]
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I had a mentor. The first time I ever put on a harness and climbed, I rapped off trad anchors. I learned at the columns in Eugene, OR and at Smith. My mentor was self taught...which I don't recommend for the general population.


therat


Apr 17, 2008, 2:45 AM
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Re: [robbovius] where did you learn how to trad lead climb [In reply to]
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robbovius wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
I'm still learning.

+1 ^ I am in the midst of a LONNNNGGG apprenticeship. maybe someday I'll make it to journeyman.

If you stop learning, you just may die...


robbovius


Apr 17, 2008, 4:07 AM
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Re: [therat] where did you learn how to trad lead climb [In reply to]
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therat wrote:
robbovius wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
I'm still learning.

+1 ^ I am in the midst of a LONNNNGGG apprenticeship. maybe someday I'll make it to journeyman.

If you stop learning, you just may die...

so? I was born. I'm DEFINITELY gonna die.


EvilMonkey


Apr 26, 2008, 1:52 PM
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Re: [alexschultz1] where did you learn how to trad lead climb [In reply to]
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play follow the leader for a season. go to your gym/crag and bribe a grizzly old dude who drves a van that he obviously lives in at least parttime with compliments, beer, smoke, and promises of being a worthy belay slave. if that doesn't work, flash your shiny new rack. it's like offering a bum crack. then, when he agrees to teach you, let him think that he actually climbs better than your little gym-rat ass. say stuff like, "good lead, i had to french-free the crux. you're sick, nice runout." oh, and ALWAYS mark your gear and sort the rack yourself. be sure to count your beaners. cheers!


quiteatingmysteak


Apr 26, 2008, 2:28 PM
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Re: [EvilMonkey] where did you learn how to trad lead climb [In reply to]
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The best way to practice is to go to New Jack City with a rack sufficiant enough to repeat the Harlin Direct and wiggle some C4's into choss. Make sure to rappel FAST! I recommend a mat black figure eight and barbed wire tattoo.


EvilMonkey


Apr 27, 2008, 1:11 PM
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Re: [quiteatingmysteak] where did you learn how to trad lead climb [In reply to]
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or you can lay down on the sidewalk and plug tcu's into the cracks, lady. budump bump bump budump yay!


tradrenn


Apr 27, 2008, 8:07 PM
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Re: [dingus] where did you learn how to trad lead climb [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
You kids have it SO EASY these days.

Amen to that.

For OP I learned on my own in Ontario, bought some books, bought some gear and off I went.


aerili


Apr 27, 2008, 10:39 PM
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Re: [alexschultz1] where did you learn how to trad lead climb [In reply to]
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Trad mentors can take many forms. They don't all have to be old and crusty. They can also be rather young and persnickety. (Although, since you are 18, I suppose they will seem old even if they are 35.)

I found my first trad partners by looking for people who also needed partners but who were racked and ready with several years under their belt. I'm lucky that I live in a large community of climbers, however, and that I met cool people as well right off the bat. One was new to the area so had no partners and another was newish to the area as well but was seeking less socially-melodramatic partners than his existing acquaintances. Over time, I met other experienced partners through them who were interested in climbing with me as well. It's a good idea to climb with as many experienced people as possible; I immediately experienced a wide array of perspectives, ways of racking, gear choices, tricks for cleaning, etc. I could make a list of various individuals and the one or two key things I learned and incorporated just from them and no one else.

Mostly I toproped and followed for a while so I could get a grasp of basic crack technique and cleaning gear.

Also, find a separate partner who really likes off width climbing and has all the gear for it. If they let you drive their Mustang, too, that's even better.

Lastly, if you are a reliable person and not too obnoxious and/or without anger management problems, you should eventually find a mentor willing to climb with you. But don't use the word "mentor." It will make them feel like you are an obligation.

P.S. Try to remember to bring your own food, water, tape, helmet, nut tool, and warm clothes when needed.

P.P.S. I forgot to mention it also helps if your blood relatives are already fairly experienced trad climbers and you can go on a trip with them at least 1-2x a year. Due to their close genetic connection and familial pride in you, they are more likely to take an interest in your Safe Trad Climbing Development.


(This post was edited by aerili on Apr 27, 2008, 10:43 PM)


go_dyno


Apr 29, 2008, 2:36 AM
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Re: [aerili] where did you learn how to trad lead climb [In reply to]
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I'm no expert, but I learned to lead trad by finding cracks I could walk up the backside and set a bomber TR anchor and then my partner and I would practice leading and placing pro with 2 ropes. One rope TR and one for lead. Belaying is tricky but can be done safely. The trick was to carry a full rack and place as much pro as possible for practice. Then the real learning would come when the TR would be let out and you would throw yourself off to test each placement falling on the lead rope and the TR would catch you if you had a zipper. You would then see if anything popped, clean the piece and throw yourself off on the next piece. Each time you check to see if the piece shifted, you see if lower pieces popped because you didn't place them correctly to take outward pull from the rope as well as downward, etc. It really helps to teach you to place cams correctly this way and you learn to trust your gear as well. The confidence of having fallen on so many different types of pro and your placements of it really builds confidence which helps you climb better. If you have 2 people to belay you it makes it even easier to do this! Be safe and goodluck!

God Bless

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