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jkd159
Apr 30, 2008, 8:51 PM
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Registered: Oct 29, 2007
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I'd like to get some new approach shoes, and I'm looking for the best shoe that meets my criteria. I realize that different people have different preferences, but let me tell you what I want:
1) A shoe, not a sandal.
2) Running shoe fit and dexterity.
3) Sticky sticky sticky rubber.
4) Collapsible uppers, especially the heel, to fit better in a small summit pack.
Over the years I've used a bunch of different models. My favorite so far is the LaSportiva Boulder. The dot rubber was great and it hiked well, though it was bulky in a pack and wasn't quite as light and nimble as a trail runner.
What shoes should I try?
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j_ung
Apr 30, 2008, 9:33 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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jkd159 wrote: I'd like to get some new approach shoes, and I'm looking for the best shoe that meets my criteria. I realize that different people have different preferences, but let me tell you what I want: 1) A shoe, not a sandal. 2) Running shoe fit and dexterity. 3) Sticky sticky sticky rubber. 4) Collapsible uppers, especially the heel, to fit better in a small summit pack. Over the years I've used a bunch of different models. My favorite so far is the LaSportiva Boulder. The dot rubber was great and it hiked well, though it was bulky in a pack and wasn't quite as light and nimble as a trail runner. What shoes should I try?
Y'know, if you liked the Boulder, you might also like La Sportiva's Fireblade. Technically, it's a sticky-rubber trailrunner, not an approach shoe. But from your post, it kinda sounds like your taste in approach shoes is similar to what mine is right now, and I love love love those Fireblades.
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retro
Apr 30, 2008, 10:28 PM
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Love my La Sportiva Exum ridge. Lightweight, breathable and they dry out quickly. Dot rubber is sticky and they edge and climb a little better than some of the other models that are built more for cross training and ridge running. I am on my second pair in about 7 years or so?? Very satisfied!!!
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Myxomatosis
Apr 30, 2008, 10:48 PM
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Registered: Jun 12, 2007
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I'm in the 5.10 camp. I have a pair of Savant's which are more for trail running than approach shoes but they are unbelievably comfortable and offer grip on all surfaces (concrete to loose soil)...
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angry
Apr 30, 2008, 11:36 PM
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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So you're looking for an aqua sock with a running shoe bottom and a rand?
If it does exist, let me know, I would like one too.
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nicodeemus
Apr 30, 2008, 11:56 PM
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I've been using the 5.10 Guides for the last year and they're excellent. Great approach shoe with reinforced toe and sticky rubber.
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angry
May 1, 2008, 12:15 AM
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I would love to see
 +
This is something that doesn't exist to my knowledge and would be AWESOME!!!
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corson
May 1, 2008, 12:17 AM
Post #9 of 31
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Registered: Oct 16, 2005
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jkd159 wrote: I'd like to get some new approach shoes, and I'm looking for the best shoe that meets my criteria. I realize that different people have different preferences, but let me tell you what I want: 1) A shoe, not a sandal. 2) Running shoe fit and dexterity. 3) Sticky sticky sticky rubber. 4) Collapsible uppers, especially the heel, to fit better in a small summit pack. Over the years I've used a bunch of different models. My favorite so far is the LaSportiva Boulder. The dot rubber was great and it hiked well, though it was bulky in a pack and wasn't quite as light and nimble as a trail runner. What shoes should I try?
SWEET
I'm in the markey for a new car too.
It must
be a v-8
go 0-60 in 4 sec.
turn a 10sec 1/4 mile
pull 12,000 lbs
with a 3000 lb payload
oh, and get 45 MPG
any ideas!
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josephgdawson
May 1, 2008, 5:43 AM
Post #11 of 31
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Registered: Jan 20, 2004
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I too love my Sportiva Exum Ridge. They are as comfortable as a running shoe and they climb well.
The only shoes I am aware of that have heels that collapse are caynoneering shoes. I have looked at those and thought about how handy it would be for shoving in a pack. Too bad more shoes do not have that. I would love to see a version of the Exum Ridge with a collapsable heels.
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corson
May 1, 2008, 9:54 AM
Post #12 of 31
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Registered: Oct 16, 2005
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Ya , but can it tow 12,000 lbs and fit in my backpack?
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WVUCLMBR
May 1, 2008, 12:22 PM
Post #13 of 31
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Scarpa Zen. I wear mine all the time/everywhere. Can hike miles or climb 5.2-5.4 in them. Mine were handmade in Italy by an 74yr old virgin. The womens version looks badass too. As far as your criteria:
1. Shoe, lowcut
2. could run from bear, but not for miles
3. Vibram Spyder sole with sticky rubber PU
4. not really, but pack size is small IMHO
Oh, and I have kinda wide feet with no fit problems.
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k.l.k
May 1, 2008, 2:40 PM
Post #14 of 31
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Registered: May 9, 2007
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jkd159 wrote: 2) Running shoe fit and dexterity. 3) Sticky sticky sticky rubber. 4) Collapsible uppers, especially the heel, to fit better in a small summit pack.
You can have (2) or (4), but not both, and no one can make one for you. The key stabilizing element of a running shoe or light hiker is the heel counter. A heel counter that will collapse by hand will also collapse underfoot.
So the bad news is that you will still need two different approach shoes, one suitable for real approaches and trail running (a la the various Sportiva models) and one like the Acopa with a collapsible heel that will stash flat in the pack.
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shimanilami
May 1, 2008, 3:04 PM
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I'm thinking about buying a pair of Croc's for descents. Their featherweight, have a enclosed toe, and damn good looking.
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shimanilami
May 1, 2008, 5:30 PM
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macherry wrote: shimanilami wrote: I'm thinking about buying a pair of Croc's for descents. Their featherweight, have a enclosed toe, and damn good looking. have fun with that
What?! I would have thought you were a Crocs type of gal.
Seriously, I was rapping 8 pitches last weekend and the only thing that could have hurt my feet more than the sharp granite was putting my Katanas back on. I got to the ground, saw some old lady with Crocs, and nearly mugged her for 'em. Further, they make a sweet blue that matches my harness and rope.
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WVUCLMBR
May 1, 2008, 6:38 PM
Post #18 of 31
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angry
May 1, 2008, 7:04 PM
Post #19 of 31
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
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Serious answer here.
Depending on how hard you climb and how hard the route is, there are shoes in existence that cover all the bases.
If I do the Steck-Salathe again, I'm wearing the Evolve Maximus. It is the high top in the picture.
If you take the little insole out you can walk pretty comfortably in them for a few miles, put the insole back in to take up room and they climb well. Not on delicate edging or fingercracks but really do well on #1 camalot cracks and larger. With these, your shoes don't come off all day.
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the_climber
May 1, 2008, 7:35 PM
Post #20 of 31
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
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I'll second the Evolv Maximus. Picked up a pair of these recently. I had been looking for something like thte old Scarpa Pro Accents, the maximus is the closest to that right now. For me I was looking for a boot/shoe with some ankle suport for Approaches, Aid, Easy/Moderate Trad and alpine rock which I could put on at the truck, hike in, tighten up and climb, then hike out.
The Maximus fit the bill of me. Try it out. Quite light too.
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brokenankle
May 1, 2008, 8:12 PM
Post #21 of 31
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Registered: Jan 17, 2006
Posts: 50
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Although Im generally skeptical of madrock shoes and I have no personal experience with this shoe in particular, it does seem to meet your requirements:
http://www.madrockclimbing.com/flash-2-3.aspx
That being said, Im still rockin my la sportiva boulders as well, and will probably resole them rather than replace them when needed.
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irregularpanda
May 1, 2008, 8:24 PM
Post #22 of 31
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Registered: Mar 13, 2007
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corson wrote: Ya , but can it tow 12,000 lbs and fit in my backpack?
I'd be more worried about whether it does my dishes and can make me a sandwich.
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corson
May 1, 2008, 9:14 PM
Post #23 of 31
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Registered: Oct 16, 2005
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Oooooo.Sandwich!Sandwich!
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corson
May 1, 2008, 9:16 PM
Post #24 of 31
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Registered: Oct 16, 2005
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shimanilami wrote: I'm thinking about buying a pair of Croc's for descents. Their featherweight, have a enclosed toe, and damn good looking.
Crocks? Damn good looking? Don't tell me you wear white jeans and visors,t
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ryanb
May 1, 2008, 11:01 PM
Post #25 of 31
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Registered: Nov 4, 2004
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I have the five ten "retro tennies" and they are quite low profile though the sole could stand to be a bit thicker and they don't edge well anymore...you have to be careful on rough trails.
Heard good things about boreal fliers and might check out the new acopa's that are supposed to be similar.
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