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zealotnoob


Apr 30, 2008, 9:37 AM
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Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend
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Based in DC, it's hard to get to the good stuff. I'm looking for big objectives where I can fly in on a Friday night, climb on Sat and leave on Sunday.

Does anyone know if the Casual Route on the Diamond could go down like this?

Epinephrine?

Tuolumne?

Other ideas?


(This post was edited by zealotnoob on Apr 30, 2008, 11:18 AM)


petsfed


Apr 30, 2008, 9:49 AM
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Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
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zealotnoob wrote:
Based in DC, it's hard to get to the good stuff. I'm looking for big objectives where I can fly in on a Firday night, climb on Sat and leave on Sunday.

Does anyone know if the Casual Route on the Diamond could go down like this?

Epinephrine?

Tuolumne?

Other ideas?

Casual's typically done in a day, but the altitude and the approach will kick the shit out of you. Epinephrine could go that way, although its hardly alpine, just really long.


jkd159


Apr 30, 2008, 10:17 AM
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I wouldn't want to go from DC (sea level) to the top of the Diamond (14000') in a day.

Even the climbs at Tuolumne start around 9000'. I suppose there is plenty of mellow climbing that would be possible in the sort of weekend you describe. Fairview Dome, Cathedral, Matthes Crest and about a zillion others.

Epinephrine is an easy weekend as long as you are up to climbing the chimneys. Close to the airport, reasonable approach, etc. The time zone change helps you get an alpine start on Saturday. Exactly what you are looking for. Except it is not exactly alpine.

I'm trying to think where you would find low altitude alpine climbs that wouldn't require acclimatization. NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire tops out around 10500' but the logistics of flying in, doing the approach, climbing the route, and getting out are probably not possible in a weekend.


jjanowia


Apr 30, 2008, 10:21 AM
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Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
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Off the top of my head, some other climbs from Roper & Steck's list that are adjacent to airports:

Fly into Seattle:
-North ridge (or complete north ridge) of Mt. Stuart goes in a day if you can simulclimb easy terrain. Otherwise, a weekend trip.
-Any of the ridges of Forbidden Peak are rad. I've known several folk who have headed out there for a day, but had to bivy since they couldn't get off the thing as easily as they'd liked.
Fly into Vancouver:
-Northeast Buttress of Mt. Slesse. You may have to get creative in terms of transportation - perhaps try to find a local to meet you at your car, drive you to the logical starting point (they are not one in the same). If you're a baller, you can also get choppered from your car to the start point (they say, I know nothing about it).


zealotnoob


Apr 30, 2008, 11:37 AM
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Yeah. 0-14k in a day would be brutal. Would have to take at least a day off.

That Buggaboo spire is gorgeous. I'll have to look into that more...but a weekend trip sounds unlikely.

How far is the drive from the airport to Tuolumne?


tolman_paul


Apr 30, 2008, 11:58 AM
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Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
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Closest airport to the medows would be Reno, and you'd be looking at probably 4hrs. Fairview will be crazy busy on a weekend, so you'd want to start at say 6AM.

If you were in kickazz shape you might be able to handle the fly and drive all night, and start climbing at ~9000' elevation. But more than likely it'll kick your butt, hard.

Tried the middle cathedral on a weekend, ended up leaving too late on a Friday, drove all night, and started at 3AM. We cruised the first 6 pitches, I got a bit winded on the 7th, and litterally passed out after anchoring in while my partner was jugging the line. Great plan, poor execution.

For all the travel time and expense, it doesn't make any sense to do a major trip for less than a week. Especially with alpine routes that all require one to factor in weather windows. Would more than suck to show up for your one day climb in the rain.


ryanb


Apr 30, 2008, 12:16 PM
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Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Washington/North_Cascades/Washington_Pass/

http://www.summitpost.org/area/range/171026/liberty-bell-group.html

This is about the most easily approachable true alpine area in the country. 2-3 hours from Sea Tac air port, <1 hour approaches. Low elevation, routes from 5.6 - 5.13 up to grade V.

Downside is that it gets real mountain weather due to proximity to the coast and its hard to guarantee a good weekend far in advance, most people who go for the weekend come prepared to spend the day cragging an hour or two east in the rain shadow (mazamma and/or leavenworth) if weather roles in.

I suggest moving. That will cut down on the carbon footprint of cross country flights and facilitate a more relaxed attitude towards life.


forkliftdaddy


Apr 30, 2008, 12:20 PM
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Long routes in Vegas are very possible over a weekend. Although they may be crowded, you are unlikely to face altitude-related problems.

RE: higher peaks, I think that if you fly into Jackson you could make it up something in the Tetons. Also, the Incredible Hulk trailhead is about 3 hours from Reno. You can be wading through the beaver dammed muck in short order. You may face weather and altitude issues in both places, however.


skinnyclimber


Apr 30, 2008, 12:29 PM
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Re: [zealotnoob] Biggest alpine rock routes, doable over a weekend [In reply to]
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zealotnoob wrote:
Yeah. 0-14k in a day would be brutal. Would have to take at least a day off.

I have read about acclimatization machines where you wear a mask and and it cycles you through various air pressures for a few hours. I don't know much about them other than that they exist. Just thought I'd throw that out there....

I second the vote for trying not to use too much fossil fuels to get to the crags, but that's another thread

Good luck!!


elvislegs


Apr 30, 2008, 12:31 PM
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the elephant's perch, in the sawtooth range, here in idaho, can go that way if you're up to it.
fly into boise, stanley is about 2.5 hour drive from there. then theres a short boat ride across the lake and 1.5 hr hike to put you at the bottom of many 7 to 10 pitch routes ranging from 5.8-5.13 on superb, clean, granite.
elevation is around 8400 ft at the base, and not quite 10,000 ft. on top.
we did it car to car last summer from redfish lake in about 8 hours, so a weekend should be doable.

a couple of my friends did the east buttress of el cap. over a weekend last year. they didn't fly, they took an extra day and drove from boise (11 hours). seems like you could do it though, flying into sacramento, or san jose maybe?


k.l.k


Apr 30, 2008, 12:39 PM
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I would 2nd the Vegas recommendation-- shorter flight, crags close to the airport, and the elevation isn't too stiff.

The Rockies and Sierras are not a good idea for a flatlander weekend out of DC., because of the mix of altitude + jetlag.

Liberty Bell is great, but 2-3hrs from Sea-Tac is really optimistic. Slesse, Forbidden, + Stuart all would be really grim after a cross-country flight and the hours of driving from SeaTac.

You should think about Grand Wall in Squamish. Get a passport and fly into Vancouver. 2hrs by car, and the wall is roadside. Not really any less alpine than Liberty Bell. If it rains (and it will), you can get out the aiders and go to town w/o Yosemite style lines.

And really, if you're already on the East Coast, instead of flying five to six hours cross-country and then driving for 3-4 hrs with jet lag, just take off a F or M or both; fly straight into Geneva; and drive/train an hour to Chamonix. Then you'll take the peripherique up to yr climb, bag it, get drunk, and head home.


zealotnoob


Apr 30, 2008, 1:06 PM
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Re: alttitude, I did Mt Conness (12,500') via the North Ridge last summer without much issue. Though, I'm sure going higher than that without time to acclimate would be asking for it.

Chamonix would be great, of course...but the price of plane tickets, for such a short trip, is a large factor. This makes Canada difficult as well.

I'd like to figure out all of the aiports with plausible objectives nearby so I can keep an eye out for last minute deals...

There always seem to be cheap flights to Vegas...not exactly alpine, however...


scuclimber


Apr 30, 2008, 2:12 PM
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Stuff in Tuolumne is doable in a weekend from sea level if you're in shape and competent. For Tuolumne I'd fly into Reno. For the Valley, I'd say San Jose or Sacto (or Oakland or SFO, depending on fares and timing really).


brutusofwyde


Apr 30, 2008, 4:14 PM
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Yosemite: (not really alpine, but otoh just as alpine as Red Rocks):
DNB
LA Chimney
YPB
Astroman
Steck-Salathe
EB El Cap
EB Middle Cathedral Rock
EB Lower Cathedral Rock
Half Dome regular route
Chouinard-Herbert
Serenity/Sons
Arrowhead Arete

Red Rocks:
Eagle Dance
Levitation 29
Rainbow Buttress
Epinepherine
Frigid Air Buttress
Resolution Arete
Bridge Mountain Traverse
Crimson Chrysalis
Ginger Cracks
Black Orpheus
Olive Oil

Sierra High Country:
Harding route Mt. Conness
South Face Charlotte Dome
East Face routes Mt. Whitney
(Including Direct East Face and Great Book)
E. Face Keeler Needle
East Face Day Needle
Lone Pine Peak south face routes
N Ridge Lone Pine Peak

Second the thoughts on Elephant's Perch. Stellar area.

Washington Pass generally has much, much better weather than Slesse and other nearby areas.

Be aware that on Slesse (as with many other alpine routes) weather is key, and betting your trip on good weather there is long odds.

hope this helps.

Brutus


localshredder


Apr 30, 2008, 4:24 PM
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What about Zion?


brutusofwyde


Apr 30, 2008, 4:40 PM
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Maybe Zion! I'm not too familiar with it.

Come to think of it, theres also the stuff out of Moab-- Castle Valley, Fisher Towers...


zealotnoob


May 1, 2008, 6:16 AM
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Someone mentioned the Hulk... I was just reading up on the Red Dihedral route. It gets sun from noon to sunset which would be idea for flying into Reno and driving up Friday night...then completing the approach in the morning and climbing into the evening. Can any comment on this route and whether or not this sounds feasible?


cclarke


May 1, 2008, 8:25 AM
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Re: Hulk

I wouldn't do it that way. It's certainly possible but it wouldn't be a lot of fun. Great route but a little acclimatization will make the approach and the climb way more enjoyable.

I assume you have done all the routes at Cannon? That's a very easy weekend from DC with a cheap flight to Manchester.


zealotnoob


May 1, 2008, 8:38 AM
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No, I haven't been to Canon. I've driven all the way up to Wallface in the Dacks for a weekend, but Canon is just too far. And if I'm goign to fly, why not head west? I'll climb at Canon one of these days...


cclarke


May 1, 2008, 8:54 AM
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Well, you can do it. I've done very short trips from DC to Tahquitz/Suicide, Vegas and Yosemite over the years but the potential for getting shutdown entirely is pretty real and I find the travel pretty gruelling.

The Southwest flights from BWI to Manchester, NH are frequent, cheap and easy so it's no big deal to go up there several times a season. You can get two full days of climbing in a regular weekend which is tough to manage with a trip west unless you can find really optimal flight times.


antiqued


May 1, 2008, 9:41 AM
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Re Boise - check flight schedules - it takes me 2 days to do an afternoon meeting in Boise.

Unless you can take a good chunk of Friday afternoon off for airport security, it might be much easier to break in with the Rockies - shorter flights, closer cliffs, quicker returns will allow you 2 days of climbing. To get 2 days in the Sierra will require a redeye return flight.

Besides the Diamond, there are tons of long climbs in RMNP, many with shorter approaches - Hallett's, Grepon, Notchtop, .....

And although I haven't climbed there, there are long rock routes in the Sandias, just above Albuquerque.


brutusofwyde


May 1, 2008, 9:45 AM
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Sounds to me like the best option is to do long climbs with short approaches. Red Rocks, Zion, Fishers, and Yosemite fit the bill there.


cclarke


May 1, 2008, 9:49 AM
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I've climbed a few weeks in the Sandias. It would also make good choice for a short trip. The tram access for many routes is a very nice feature. Fairly reliable weather too. And virtually no driving from the airport.


munky


May 1, 2008, 9:52 AM
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If you are familiar with Mt. Conness and felt fine out there without aclimating then you should try the Harding Route on the Southwest Face of Conness. Its about the same difficulty as the Casual route on the Diamond but not nearly as likely to be crowded, nor as likely to have bad weather. Also the approach via the snow and ice to the Diamond can take more than a day if its your first time out there. I've never noticed the altitude coming from the East coast but have been with partners who have definitely been disabled by it.


petsfed


May 1, 2008, 10:00 AM
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brutusofwyde wrote:
Sounds to me like the best option is to do long climbs with short approaches. Red Rocks, Zion, Fishers, and Yosemite fit the bill there.

Wait, what?! If you've never climbed in the Fishers, or done a lot of aid climbing, I'd avoid attempting many routes in a day there. The rock is incredibly crumbly, so you need to learn how to move before you try to move fast. Ancient Art will go quickly since its mostly free, same with a few others, but most are sustained, tricky aid. You have to learn what the rock will hold before you cast off into the abyss.

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