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richardvg03
May 5, 2008, 6:29 AM
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So I just got back from Jtree and with the rack I have everything worked pretty good. I did feel a little limited but only a couple of times and one time at the top of the route I was out of cams and had to come up with an anchor... which took a while...
now...
I don't want this to happen when I go to Yosemite! It'd suck to have to do that 5 pitches up in the air! I'll be doing easy routes in yosemite. Any suggestions of which cams to double/triple up on? My partner does not have a rack so I'm the only gear we have.
I currently have
C4- .5, .75, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3
TCU- 1,2,3,4,
Metolius power cams- 4,5
Metolius- 3
and 2 sets of nuts
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vegastradguy
May 5, 2008, 6:42 AM
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looks like plenty of gear. pick up a 4" cam, though- those are nice to have around.
also, try to use your stoppers while you're at comfortable stances on lead, saving your cams for when you're stressed as well as for anchors.
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coastal_climber
May 5, 2008, 2:12 PM
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I'd get 2 more #3 C4's.
>Cam
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salamanizer
May 5, 2008, 2:53 PM
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coastal_climber wrote: I'd get 2 more #3 C4's. >Cam
You're kidding.... right?
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coastal_climber
May 5, 2008, 3:17 PM
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salamanizer wrote: coastal_climber wrote: I'd get 2 more #3 C4's. >Cam You're kidding.... right?
I didn't see he already had a #3 listed. One more then.
>Cam
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climbingaggie03
May 5, 2008, 3:29 PM
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I agree that another #3 would pretty much give you a full double set.
You might look into getting the biggest max cam to give you another big piece, that has a larger range.
That will give you pretty much a double set up to 3 inches, I'd say after that you should get a #4. You won't take it on every climb, but especially on some routes in yosemite and j-tree, there are some spots that a #4 is nice to have.
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elnero
May 5, 2008, 3:36 PM
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Maybe pick up one or two link cams/super cams/etc? Easy way to double up on a couple of sizes with minimial weight and bulk. Thuogh, if you felt limited in the number of placements you could make, rather than just not having the right sizes, maybe just adding more regular cams is a better idea.
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salamanizer
May 5, 2008, 9:02 PM
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Look, don't overcomplicate things.
Double up on all your cams to 3" with whatever cams you like best. Get a single 4" then possibly a 5"& 6" if (and only if) you're into the wide.
You will never "need" two sets of nuts "unless" one is a regular set (offsets useful) and the other is a set of micro nuts (again offsets useful) like DMM peanuts, not the really micro RP type.
8 slings (doubled 24") 3 lockers and a webolette for anchors.
That is all you will ever need free climbing in the valley. Ditching all that extra useless (just incase) BS everyone likes to carry around will lighten your load and allow you to climb harder.
...and if you carry all that shit with you on every route, you're a fool! Adjust accordingly, ie,,, use your fukkin head.
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donald949
May 5, 2008, 9:23 PM
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Well, actually looks like a pretty good set of pro. What I found usefull was extra finger sized stoppers, #9-#11. Just seemed like those were the sizes of cracks I climbed. But again you look good with two sets of stoppers and a set of TCU's. Think about a Hexes as back up for the C4's, they're a lot cheaper.
Go through your guide books, check the database here, Mountainproject.com, and summitpost.com for what routes you want to do, and what size pro they take. See if any of them will gooble up a certain size.
Don
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richardvg03
May 6, 2008, 1:02 AM
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salamanizer wrote: ...and if you carry all that shit with you on every route, you're a fool! Adjust accordingly, ie,,, use your fukkin head.
I'm a fool... 2 is 1...1 is none... if I drop a set of nuts... I have a backup ;)
I bought another 3 and 4 for C4's!
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stymingersfink
May 6, 2008, 2:43 AM
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richardvg03 wrote: salamanizer wrote: ...and if you carry all that shit with you on every route, you're a fool! Adjust accordingly, ie,,, use your fukkin head. I'm a fool... 2 is 1...1 is none... if I drop a set of nuts... I have a backup ;) I bought another 3 and 4 for C4's!
Split your stoppers up, carrying them on two or three biners grouped by size. Small-med.large on one biner, med.large-largest on the other.
I find that I really like placing stoppers sized 5-8, so I carry doubles or triples of them, with some racked on the smaller biner, some racked on the larger biner.
YMMV, but IMHO, you place a lot of stoppers on routes that will take them. They're the cheapest way to expand your range of placing options, plus it feels pretty nice to send a route with all passive gear.
Sometimes I'll get on a route I've climbed before, but this time carry only a double set of stoppers. Doing so should improve your eye for placements.
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ja1484
May 6, 2008, 2:48 AM
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salamanizer wrote: Look, don't overcomplicate things. Double up on all your cams to 3" with whatever cams you like best. Get a single 4" then possibly a 5"& 6" if (and only if) you're into the wide. You will never "need" two sets of nuts "unless" one is a regular set (offsets useful) and the other is a set of micro nuts (again offsets useful) like DMM peanuts, not the really micro RP type. 8 slings (doubled 24") 3 lockers and a webolette for anchors. That is all you will ever need free climbing in the valley. Ditching all that extra useless (just incase) BS everyone likes to carry around will lighten your load and allow you to climb harder. ...and if you carry all that shit with you on every route, you're a fool! Adjust accordingly, ie,,, use your fukkin head.
Can't speak to the Valley itself, but the MO here is right on. Way too many people carry way too much stuff.
It must be nice to carry so few slings.
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majid_sabet
May 6, 2008, 3:03 AM
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Gilbert
Do not listen to these civilians and do not go to assault Yosemite rocks empty handed. quadruple everything and add bunch of slings and ropes .
Do not hurt yourself now, OK
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richardvg03
May 6, 2008, 3:12 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: Sometimes one is sufficient.
NEVER!! Hell I even carry 2 harness's! :)
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summerprophet
May 6, 2008, 3:52 AM
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Hey man,
Pretty decent rack for the valley is nuts and cams. Cams being doubles from fingers to fists and a single size larger.
Even so, Yosemite is all about long continous pitches. The above rack will still give you 40 to 60 foot run-outs at times, but keeps your rack slightly less than huge.
I also find that the WC nut larger than the BD sizes is useful (Green) and works as a good backup to cams. Two nut tools are also useful for nabbing all those freebee stuck cams.
I have done pretty much everything in the valley within my ability. Give me a shout if you want any recomendations.
J.
(This post was edited by summerprophet on May 6, 2008, 6:05 PM)
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donald949
May 6, 2008, 4:46 PM
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Anybody know what the latest word on GP Apron is? I keep reading that the left and right are subject to extra rockfall and center is normal. But that seems to be same news for several years now.
Don
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climbingaggie03
May 6, 2008, 5:14 PM
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One thing I would add to your list of gear for yosemite, is a helmet. Rockfall does happen, especially around the 5 open books, and in other popular areas and a helmet helps protect your noggin.
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summerprophet
May 6, 2008, 6:09 PM
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Pebbles from heaven are still present,
The Grack and others around it are OK, but the rockfall hazard has left a lot of the less popular climbs covered in a fine dust.
Not closed, but climb at your own risk, and heck if it is slab you are after, the highway to Tuolumne should be open soon.
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donald949
May 6, 2008, 7:17 PM
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summerprophet wrote: Pebbles from heaven are still present, The Grack and others around it are OK, but the rockfall hazard has left a lot of the less popular climbs covered in a fine dust. Not closed, but climb at your own risk, and heck if it is slab you are after, the highway to Tuolumne should be open soon.
We have Camping reservations for Tuolumne in Aug for a week. And I want to try to get into one of the campgrounds just outside of the Valley for a second second week. The Grack looks promising, but popular. Just trying get the lastest info.
Don
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lithiummetalman
May 6, 2008, 7:32 PM
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Up there a couple weekends ago. GA still has snow at the base, but that may have melted off by now. Have fun!
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climbingaggie03
May 6, 2008, 7:50 PM
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I can't say for sure cause I've never been in the valley in august, but I'd think that if you get up and get going around sunrise, you should be able to get on the grack first. In october i've had it to myself all day, and i've been stuck behind slow people for 3 long pitches.
my advice on the grack is if you are semi comfortable with the climb, then simul climb it. It will go faster, you will learn simulclimbing, and you'll have a lot of fun.
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jaybro
May 7, 2008, 8:07 AM
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Throw down for a man's rack or take up tennis, don't even think about yosemite. Or, go for it with what you have, that'd be the real thing...
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desert_gold_hound
May 9, 2008, 6:09 AM
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Hey thanks all I have been triing to figure out what gear (lead trad) and this has been a big help. While I do have local help (the person training me) it is still nice to see others veiws.
BTW. I will be in yosemite around june 7th but will be following not leading.
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andrewbanandrew
May 9, 2008, 10:50 AM
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majid_sabet wrote: Gilbert Do not listen to these civilians and do not go to assault Yosemite rocks empty handed. quadruple everything and add bunch of slings and ropes . Do not hurt yourself now, OK
I heard the latest trend is to triple up on half ropes am i rite?
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brutusofwyde
May 11, 2008, 7:27 PM
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To the OP --
Richard, I recommend getting a set of HB aluminum offsets (if they still make 'em) or equivalent, if you don't have them.
Areas like Yosemite and Tahquitz have a history of much piton usage, and the offsets are custom-made for pin scars.
Also, didn't see a 3.5 C4 in your list. I'd get one of those. If you want to get more experienced in wide cracks, extend your doubles to 4.5 and beyond.
Ditto what someone said about Link Cams. They are color-coded to match the C4s, and make a good alternate for the second C4, or add triple capability when you need a big rack for (e.g.) linking pitches, which is a good strategy in order to climb the longer free climbs in a day.
I usually try to keep the Link Cams with me for the belay, but they are a good panic piece as well
HTH, Brutus
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