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sighko1
May 6, 2008, 5:18 PM
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I am heading up this weekend to spend a few days up at little Yosemite Valley and want to have some climbing fun
I was toying the idea of using a rope to lead up the cables route, but after looking at pictures of the cable route, it looks a lot smoother and stepper then I remember.
Note: The cables aren't up yet, so it will be a lead climb.
I was curious if people thought it would be easier to do Snake Dike.
The only worry I have with snake dike is the cam placement in P1.
-I have lots of experience with setting up top ropes and sport leading
-I am familar with the placement of trad gear but I haven't done it on lead before but I feel confident that if snake dike only takes one piece that I could do it.
-I have also not done any multipitch climbing but I have JL's anchor book and have read Freedom of the Hills.
-I am a 5.10 sport lead outdoor climber
Thanks for your help.
(This post was edited by sighko1 on May 6, 2008, 5:46 PM)
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irregularpanda
May 6, 2008, 5:24 PM
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sighko1 wrote: The only worry I have with snake dike is the cam placement in P1. -I have lots of experience with setting up top ropes and sport leading - I am familar with the placement of trad gear but I haven't done it on lead before but I feel confident that if snake dike only takes one piece that I could do it.
-I have also not done any multipitch climbing but I have JL's anchor book and have read Freedom of the Hills. -I am a 5.10 sport lead outdoor climber
Don't do it. Just because you have a book about anchors doesn't mean you understand them. Just because you have freedom of the hills, doesn't mean you know how it feels to climb an entire pitch with only 1 piece of protection under you the entire time. Learning doesn't happen by osmosis, nor by being affiliated with a textbook in some way. Learning happens by experience (in this case).
Don't do it. Find a climb that will actually take gear and save yourself from having an epic (read: clusterfuck that nearly results in death).
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jt512
May 6, 2008, 5:25 PM
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sighko1 wrote: I am heading up this weekend to spend a few days up at little Yosemite Valley and want to have some climbing fun I was toying the idea of using a rope to lead up the cables route, but after looking at pictures of the cable route, it looks a lot smoother and stepper then I remember. I was curious if people thought it would be easier to do Snake Dike. The only worry I have with snake dike is the cam placement in P1. -I have lots of experience with setting up top ropes and sport leading -I am familar with the placement of trad gear but I haven't done it on lead before but I feel confident that if snake dike only takes one piece that I could do it. -I have also not done any multipitch climbing but I have JL's anchor book and have read Freedom of the Hills. -I am a 5.10 sport lead outdoor climber Thanks for your help.
This would have made a great troll. Unfortunately, it appears to be a serious question.
Jay
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irregularpanda
May 6, 2008, 5:28 PM
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Unfortunately people die on run-out slabs also.
Death by cheese grater, that sounds like the title of my next book.
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sighko1
May 6, 2008, 5:32 PM
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Yeah. Not a troll.
Just trying to make the best choice of how to get some experience without tackling more than I can handle.
Everything that I have read or heard about snake dike is that there is lots of exposure but that its fairly basic climbing.
I know that making anchors and such can not be learned solely by reading. That is why I would like to try something fairly easy to test my skills that I have learned via books and people.
I figured Snake Dike would be a good place to start as it only has 1 trad placement and the are belay bolts not to far above it.
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csproul
May 6, 2008, 5:34 PM
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sighko1 wrote: I am heading up this weekend to spend a few days up at little Yosemite Valley and want to have some climbing fun I was toying the idea of using a rope to lead up the cables route, but after looking at pictures of the cable route, it looks a lot smoother and stepper then I remember. I was curious if people thought it would be easier to do Snake Dike. The only worry I have with snake dike is the cam placement in P1. -I have lots of experience with setting up top ropes and sport leading -I am familar with the placement of trad gear but I haven't done it on lead before but I feel confident that if snake dike only takes one piece that I could do it. -I have also not done any multipitch climbing but I have JL's anchor book and have read Freedom of the Hills. -I am a 5.10 sport lead outdoor climber Thanks for your help.
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sighko1
May 6, 2008, 5:40 PM
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I think on point is being missed.
The cables aren't up yet. So if go up the cables route we will be doing it in rock shoes and using a rope as a safety device as people have died the last two years attempting.
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quiteatingmysteak
May 6, 2008, 5:50 PM
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sighko1 wrote: I am heading up this weekend to spend a few days up at little Yosemite Valley and want to have some climbing fun I was toying the idea of using a rope to lead up the cables route, but after looking at pictures of the cable route, it looks a lot smoother and stepper then I remember. I was curious if people thought it would be easier to do Snake Dike. The only worry I have with snake dike is the cam placement in P1. -I have lots of experience with setting up top ropes and sport leading -I am familar with the placement of trad gear but I haven't done it on lead before but I feel confident that if snake dike only takes one piece that I could do it. -I have also not done any multipitch climbing but I have JL's anchor book and have read Freedom of the Hills. -I am a 5.10 sport lead outdoor climber Thanks for your help.
You're ambitious! That is a good thing!
However, Snake Dike is no "5.7" hehe. And its a long day! The same week I did the Regular Route on Fairview (5.9, 12 pitches vs 8 on the dike) and snake dike was a FAR more involved day -- the approach is a BEAR and difficult to find, the route is mentally taxing, the walk off is relentless and the descent is a full day for a touron!
I would like to point out you are DEFINITELY physically capable of climbing it - I took a young lad with me who had been climbing three times before, lol (once at Woodson, once at Big Rock, once at tahquitz). Can you lead it? If there is any doubt in your mind, answer is probably no, but thats ok! Now you have something to work towards!
IMO, hike the cables. Its a blast and not nearly as easy as hard-men will belie you into agreeing with.
Also, there are a lot of good warmup routes in the valley that are closer to the car to build your 'trad' climbing skills. Here are my recommendations; if you can do these routes and feel you're not challenged, you are ready for the dike!
*Sunnyside Bench (5.4, 3 pitches)
*After Six (5.6, 6 pitches)
*Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak (5.6-5.7, 5 long pitches, exposure, hour+ approach)
*Nutcracker (5.8, 6-8 pitches [depending on how you want to do it])
*Royal Arches (5.7, 16 pitches, LONG DAY - 3-4am start!)
Aside from training locally, these routes WILL get you ready for Snake Dike, in terms of physical climbing, Speed, anchor and pro placement, time budgeting, and how to handle a MOUNTAIN. A lot of these routes, especially snake dike, are on MOUNTAINS! You can have weather, cold, injuries, bugs, heat, dropped gear, and a myriad of other problems that aren't readily accessable at a sport cliff (and to many of us, these reasons make the routes AWESOME and FUN!)
I hope the best!, and get on dem mountainz!
(PS - The cables are down, meaning the poles holding the cables up aren't attached yet. Cables still lie on the ground, and it is very possible to hand over hand up - hikers and climbers alike do it ropeless year after year! :D)
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chanceboarder
May 6, 2008, 5:51 PM
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sighko1 wrote: I think on point is being missed. The cables aren't up yet. So if go up the cables route we will be doing it in rock shoes and using a rope as a safety device as people have died the last two years attempting.
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csproul
May 6, 2008, 5:51 PM
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As long as it is dry, it still can be done by most any competent climber without a rope or rock shoes even with the cables down. If you are comfortable with the exposure, you can hand over hand the cables and it is fairly low angle. By all means, use a rope if not comfortable as a fall would most likely be fatal, but I did not feel it necessary at all (and I'm not all that brave). If it is not dry....well that's a different story.
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zeke_sf
May 6, 2008, 5:54 PM
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sighko1 wrote: I think on point is being missed. The cables aren't up yet. So if go up the cables route we will be doing it in rock shoes and using a rope as a safety device as people have died the last two years attempting.
You can just bring a harness and a couple of lockers/slings to clip into the cable... No rope necessary. Hand over hand it. Bring gloves.
As far as SD, you need more than one piece. The last anchor is a hanging belay and has no bolts. Also, bring a long ass sling for the first pitch to extend from the roof. Trust me. Like people say, you better be comfortable with 75' runouts. This is no exaggeration. Easy terrain, true, but if you're used to closely bolted routes, it will feel airy. I had one pitch where I missed the bolt right before the crux and all that was holding me were two crappy, slung knobs. I don't know where the one piece myth comes from, but if you are not a Yosemite hard man, you probably should bring a set of nuts with at least single cams from about .5 - 2" maybe... Supertopo has a free topo of Snake Dike so search there and follow the gear recs....
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sighko1
May 6, 2008, 5:56 PM
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I guess I will stick to hand over handing the cables up to the top, with a possible rope for backup on the less experienced climbers or at least clip to the cables so if you slip you don't go over the edge.
I have just been staring at the SuperTopo of Snake Dike for to long and was thinking about kicking my backpacking trip up a notch by doing it instead.
But it sounds like that it would be a bad idea to attempt, I will wait and take a multipitch class before I try it.
thanks!
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quiteatingmysteak
May 6, 2008, 5:59 PM
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zeke_sf wrote: sighko1 wrote: I think on point is being missed. The cables aren't up yet. So if go up the cables route we will be doing it in rock shoes and using a rope as a safety device as people have died the last two years attempting. You can just bring a harness and a couple of lockers/slings to clip into the cable... No rope necessary. Hand over hand it. Bring gloves. As far as SD, you need more than one piece. The last anchor is a hanging belay and has no bolts. Also, bring a long ass sling for the first pitch to extend from the roof. Trust me. Like people say, you better be comfortable with 75' runouts. This is no exaggeration. Easy terrain, true, but if you're used to closely bolted routes, it will feel airy. I had one pitch where I missed the bolt right before the crux and all that was holding me were two crappy, slung knobs. I don't know where the one piece myth comes from, but if you are not a Yosemite hard man, you probably should bring a set of nuts with at least single cams from about .5 - 2" maybe... Supertopo has a free topo of Snake Dike so search there and follow the gear recs....
Love the taco!
http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yohasnak
Runout takes the funout?
That is your first peice off the first pitch, you don't want to fall placing it! Like zeke said, bring a long ass sling, it will put you essentially on TR.
and bring a full set of nuts and cams .5-1.25"
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southswell
May 6, 2008, 5:59 PM
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First learn to trad climb on single pitch leads, then learn self rescue techniques, then start on a G rated 5.nothing multi pitch, not a 5.7 R slab runout. If you get stuck half way you become a liability to the park and a danger to yourself, your partner and any other climbers on the route.
Snake Dike is a serious climb, not a trainer.
please take the cables.
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jungle_george
May 6, 2008, 6:04 PM
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Did Snake Dike last year for the first time with a couple of TCU's, a couple of nuts, and a few draws. The route should really be named Snake Hike.
Anyways, based on what you've said Snake Dike is probably not a safer option for you.
So the cables are down, right, I understand. If I were you I would go up the cables route.
Instead of taking a rope, how about this? Get a pair of 6-7 mm 5 ft' accessory cords tied in loops with df knots, make several wraps around the cable, and attach each to your belay loop As you pick up the cable and "jug" forward with your hands, just slide the prusiks up as you go. Problem solved. Just make sure you test the # of wraps at the base to make sure they catch.
As you descend do the same thing, just backwards.
Taking leather gloves may save your hands.
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zeke_sf
May 6, 2008, 6:06 PM
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quiteatingmysteak wrote: Love the taco! http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yohasnak Runout takes the funout?
Runout don't take the funout! Climbing that exposed, Jurassic-looking spine of rock just plasters a smile on your face.
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sighko1
May 6, 2008, 6:10 PM
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Great idea on wrapping the cables.
I was toying with the idea of trying to do a prussic on the cables for the way down. I am not to worried about going up.
I was worried that the cables would be too slick for the knot to bite. I figured when I got to the cables I could try a couple different knots to see which ones will work the best. Was thinking a Klemheist.
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brianinslc
May 6, 2008, 6:18 PM
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My partner on the Snake Dike reposted the link on the supertopo the other day, of the time we climbed the route, and he "heroically" took a whipper on it. Pretty funny.
I think at the time, he was a 5.up there sports climber. Not used to friction, though.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=30218&msg=30275#msg30275
-Brian in SLC
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jungle_george
May 6, 2008, 6:18 PM
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Use a Prussik, it'll grip tighter. You may have to wrap 3, 4, 5 times, but it'll catch.
Test it before you go up.
You know, if you hang out in Camp 4 and post a message at the kiosk, you might be able to find someone who's looking for a partner to go up Snake Dike. If you trust them and you can belay worth a damn that might be an option too.
Good luck and have fun - beautiful view.
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climbingaggie03
May 6, 2008, 6:54 PM
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Jungle george and I climbed snake dike last october, he headed up the same way as your partner, but turned around before it was too late, we figured that was around 5.11 and we were really glad that we didn't go that way with that manky buttonhead bolt being the only pro.
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brianinslc
May 6, 2008, 7:00 PM
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climbingaggie03 wrote: Jungle george and I climbed snake dike last october, he headed up the same way as your partner, but turned around before it was too late, we figured that was around 5.11 and we were really glad that we didn't go that way with that manky buttonhead bolt being the only pro.
He was pretty much on route, but, failed to step slightly down into the better feet on the traverse. Missed the bolt, too, which really added to his whipper.
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
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