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article and pics of Nico Favresse in Greenspit (5.13d), trad crack in Italy
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thomasribiere


May 10, 2008, 3:43 AM
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article and pics of Nico Favresse in Greenspit (5.13d), trad crack in Italy
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article
http://www.nicolasfavresse.com/...=7&id_article=72

more pics
http://www.kairn.com/article.html?id=1198


notapplicable


May 10, 2008, 6:04 AM
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Re: [thomasribiere] article and pics of Nico Favresse in Greenspit (5.13d), trad crack in Italy [In reply to]
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thomasribiere wrote:
article
http://www.nicolasfavresse.com/...=7&id_article=72

more pics
http://www.kairn.com/article.html?id=1198

For some reason I had it in my mind that Didier proposed 14a for that route. No mention of Nico's opinion in the article one way or the other.

A proud send either way.

Nice job Nico.


8flood8


May 10, 2008, 7:19 AM
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Re: [thomasribiere] article and pics of Nico Favresse in Greenspit (5.13d), trad crack in Italy [In reply to]
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HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

hardest trad line in Europe????


Isn't redpointing, and sieging a climb for 2 days sport climbing???

HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM


just love to stir i mean smoke the pot.


Partner devkrev


May 12, 2008, 1:21 PM
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Re: [8flood8] article and pics of Nico Favresse in Greenspit (5.13d), trad crack in Italy [In reply to]
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8flood8 wrote:
HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

hardest trad line in Europe????


Isn't redpointing, and sieging a climb for 2 days sport climbing???

HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

just love to stir i mean smoke the pot.


NO! Trad climbing just means climbing on gear not on bolts,


DUH!!1one!11

dev


quiteatingmysteak


May 12, 2008, 5:21 PM
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Re: [devkrev] article and pics of Nico Favresse in Greenspit (5.13d), trad crack in Italy [In reply to]
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devkrev wrote:
8flood8 wrote:
HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

hardest trad line in Europe????


Isn't redpointing, and sieging a climb for 2 days sport climbing???

HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

just love to stir i mean smoke the pot.


NO! Trad climbing just means climbing on gear not on bolts,


DUH!!1one!11

dev


3 feet
gear
3 feet
gear
3 feet
gear
"TAAAAAAAKE!!!!"
"wow good burn!"
"I know! Let me work these moves a bit. I think I can send it by the end of the month!"

*Weeks later* PROUD DOUG McRODPOINT SENT HIS PURE TRAD 16d!


sungam


May 12, 2008, 5:38 PM
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Re: [8flood8] article and pics of Nico Favresse in Greenspit (5.13d), trad crack in Italy [In reply to]
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how could it be anyways? is scotland not in europe?


GeneralBenson


May 12, 2008, 5:40 PM
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Re: [quiteatingmysteak] article and pics of Nico Favresse in Greenspit (5.13d), trad crack in Italy [In reply to]
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Why would you ever put that much gear in on a climb? It's not like it's 15 feet off the deck with a horror show landing. It really is like 3 feet. I thought someone was exagerating until I looked at the picture, and it's not even telephoto compression. That would take forever. I don't anything about leading 5.hard overhung trad cracks, but I would think you would wanna burn through it asap.


8flood8


May 12, 2008, 8:04 PM
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Re: [GeneralBenson] article and pics of Nico Favresse in Greenspit (5.13d), trad crack in Italy [In reply to]
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i would say being that it is an overhung traverse, he needed that gear in at those intervals to avoid not being able to get back on the line if he fell.


quiteatingmysteak


May 12, 2008, 10:57 PM
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Re: [GeneralBenson] article and pics of Nico Favresse in Greenspit (5.13d), trad crack in Italy [In reply to]
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GeneralBenson wrote:
Why would you ever put that much gear in on a climb? It's not like it's 15 feet off the deck with a horror show landing. It really is like 3 feet. I thought someone was exagerating until I looked at the picture, and it's not even telephoto compression. That would take forever. I don't anything about leading 5.hard overhung trad cracks, but I would think you would wanna burn through it asap.

I wasn't poking fun at this route, just what some hardmen get away calling a "trad" ascent.

Climbing by traditional means is ground up, onsight. Its ok just to call it "climbing" if its anything else, that works.

"Sonnie trotter put up a new route at .14b R/X!"
cool!

"Sonnie trotter put up a new totally rad trad gear route with cams and nuts and stoppers and other shiny things that go into cracks all on gear no bolts which some deem unsafe because bolts = GRRRREEAT at .14b R/X"
Tongue


gunkiemike


May 13, 2008, 3:01 AM
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Re: [quiteatingmysteak] article and pics of Nico Favresse in Greenspit (5.13d), trad crack in Italy [In reply to]
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quiteatingmysteak wrote:

Climbing by traditional means is ground up, onsight. Its ok just to call it "climbing" if its anything else, that works.

T 3


Rockjunkie15


May 15, 2008, 7:11 AM
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Re: [8flood8] article and pics of Nico Favresse in Greenspit (5.13d), trad crack in Italy [In reply to]
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You always have the superman method to get back on the route.

It doesn't matter how much gear you put in as long as you get to the end without dieing. sick crack.


popol


May 15, 2008, 10:01 AM
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Re: [8flood8] article and pics of Nico Favresse in Greenspit (5.13d), trad crack in Italy [In reply to]
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There must be a good reason to use that amount of gear. Nico is not the person to be afraid when his gear is at long distance. Just look at what he did before (freeing/opening very difficult (trad) routes in Yosemite, Patagonia, Pakistan ) or read about how he finally completed this climb (without placing the last piece of gear because he dropped it).
For the die-hards: he placed the gear himself on every attempt, so it's not like he was climbing a pre-equipped trad route or so.


(This post was edited by popol on May 15, 2008, 10:02 AM)


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