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notapplicable
May 10, 2008, 1:04 PM
Post #2 of 12
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
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For some reason I had it in my mind that Didier proposed 14a for that route. No mention of Nico's opinion in the article one way or the other.
A proud send either way.
Nice job Nico.
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8flood8
May 10, 2008, 2:19 PM
Post #3 of 12
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1436
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HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM
hardest trad line in Europe????
Isn't redpointing, and sieging a climb for 2 days sport climbing???
HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM
just love to stir i mean smoke the pot.
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devkrev
May 12, 2008, 8:21 PM
Post #4 of 12
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Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933
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8flood8 wrote: HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM hardest trad line in Europe???? Isn't redpointing, and sieging a climb for 2 days sport climbing??? HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM just love to stir i mean smoke the pot.
NO! Trad climbing just means climbing on gear not on bolts,
DUH!!1one!11
dev
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quiteatingmysteak
May 13, 2008, 12:21 AM
Post #5 of 12
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Registered: Dec 15, 2004
Posts: 804
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devkrev wrote: 8flood8 wrote: HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM hardest trad line in Europe???? Isn't redpointing, and sieging a climb for 2 days sport climbing??? HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM just love to stir i mean smoke the pot. NO! Trad climbing just means climbing on gear not on bolts, DUH!!1one!11 dev
3 feet
gear
3 feet
gear
3 feet
gear
"TAAAAAAAKE!!!!"
"wow good burn!"
"I know! Let me work these moves a bit. I think I can send it by the end of the month!"
*Weeks later* PROUD DOUG McRODPOINT SENT HIS PURE TRAD 16d!
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sungam
May 13, 2008, 12:38 AM
Post #6 of 12
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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how could it be anyways? is scotland not in europe?
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GeneralBenson
May 13, 2008, 12:40 AM
Post #7 of 12
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Registered: Jan 19, 2007
Posts: 270
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Why would you ever put that much gear in on a climb? It's not like it's 15 feet off the deck with a horror show landing. It really is like 3 feet. I thought someone was exagerating until I looked at the picture, and it's not even telephoto compression. That would take forever. I don't anything about leading 5.hard overhung trad cracks, but I would think you would wanna burn through it asap.
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8flood8
May 13, 2008, 3:04 AM
Post #8 of 12
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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i would say being that it is an overhung traverse, he needed that gear in at those intervals to avoid not being able to get back on the line if he fell.
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gunkiemike
May 13, 2008, 10:01 AM
Post #10 of 12
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Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266
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quiteatingmysteak wrote: Climbing by traditional means is ground up, onsight. Its ok just to call it "climbing" if its anything else, that works.
T 3
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Rockjunkie15
May 15, 2008, 2:11 PM
Post #11 of 12
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Registered: Jul 16, 2007
Posts: 24
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You always have the superman method to get back on the route.
It doesn't matter how much gear you put in as long as you get to the end without dieing. sick crack.
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popol
May 15, 2008, 5:01 PM
Post #12 of 12
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Registered: Nov 9, 2003
Posts: 390
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There must be a good reason to use that amount of gear. Nico is not the person to be afraid when his gear is at long distance. Just look at what he did before (freeing/opening very difficult (trad) routes in Yosemite, Patagonia, Pakistan ) or read about how he finally completed this climb (without placing the last piece of gear because he dropped it).
For the die-hards: he placed the gear himself on every attempt, so it's not like he was climbing a pre-equipped trad route or so.
(This post was edited by popol on May 15, 2008, 5:02 PM)
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