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ckirkwood9
Mar 12, 2008, 9:27 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Hi, traveling to Pheonix, AZ in mid April and am looking for a recommendation for a guidebook for the area. I've seen references to "squeezing the lemmon II" being THE book to get, but it was last updated in 2000. is there anything newer? better? more complete? Also a guidebook suggestion to other areas would be great too. Thanks for the info All!!! climb on. Charlie
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bill_in_tokyo
Mar 13, 2008, 6:49 AM
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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For a trip last year, the best I could find for Mt. Lemmon was the one you mentioned: Squeezing the Lemmon II. Haven't heard of anything newer. If you're going to be down around Tucson, the Cochise guide, which is out of print, has been made available free by the author on line: http://www.climbaz.com/...try/backcountry.html
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climbsomething
Mar 13, 2008, 9:02 AM
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Registered: May 30, 2002
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I think mountainproject has a good spread of route info. Eric Rhicard posts there, which is a very sound endorsement.
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climbsomething
Mar 13, 2008, 9:07 AM
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Oh, and not to sound patronizing, but Phoenix --> Lemmon can take upwards of 3 hours, depending on where in the Valley you're originating from and the traffic. That said, Lemmon buries the Phoenix scene and is going to be a lot cooler, temperature-wise. So it's worth the trip.
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erclimb
Mar 13, 2008, 11:02 AM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2002
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"squeezing" is thorough but approaches and route descriptions are vague...i recommend "climbing arizona"...it's not very thorough (no listing of summit crags) but provides more info for the climber new to lemmon...also, while in tucson, stop by the summit hut for beta--they're even willing to xerox a couple pages out of the lemmon guide i was there for two days and recommend ridgeline (in the arizona book)--several moderate sport routes, and steel crazy--3 pitches of sport on one of the summit crags
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AZBones
Mar 13, 2008, 9:21 PM
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Registered: Nov 20, 2006
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If you're staying around Phoenix pickup the Queen creek book too, it's not too far out from the valley especially if you're going to be in the east valley.
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ckirkwood9
Mar 14, 2008, 1:58 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Thank you all for the info. I already have climbing Arizona.... not sure if there is a newer copy, but it seems pretty decent. I climb sport/trad/tr and my climbing partner for this trip (g.f.) is a relatively new but really strong climber. SOOOO i'll be bringing 2 ropes a full trad rack and set of trad draws. ALSO a tent and cook ware to make that 3 hour trip worth while by staying nearby. Thanks for the closure info, As an east coast climber who frequents the Gunks a lot, i know how important it is to respect route closures.... If anyone has any additional info please send it along via pm. I've already read a little on camping in the area, but i'll take recommendations from anyone who's actually camped there. ALSO restaurant and/or other activity suggestions would CERTAINLY be welcome.
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ckirkwood9
Apr 1, 2008, 1:03 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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what are the possibilities for showing up w/o a partner and finding people to climb with?
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ckirkwood9
May 13, 2008, 4:08 PM
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Just came back from Az last week. so here's the quick post-trip report. 1) Mt Lemmon wasn't too far, maybe 2 hours. TOTALLY worth the drive from Phoenix. The quality and amount of rock was amazing, loads of food easily accessible down the twisty road and cool people - though not many... the place was empty during the week. 2) Camelback Mountain. hmmmm. i'll leave that for later 3) Sedona - focking awesome. THe sandstone spires were incredible... (did Streaker Spire - 5.7) the climbing fun, interesting and varried. The approach wasn't too bad and the parking easy. Stopped at a bike shop/coffee shop in sedona that was really cool, had a great breakfast at 'the coffee pot' and picked up 'castles in the sand' at some place who's name escapes me... canyon outfitters maybe? #4) Camelback was a waste of time for sport. To be fair though there seemed to be some fun bouldering. But overall - chossy dirty crap. (the guide book calls it "petrified mud" should have seen the red flag) Once we got to Sedona, my partner and I SERIOUSLY wished that we had skipped camelback and drove straight to Sedona from Lemmon. I can see if ya live close by and just want to get on some vertical w/o driving... but skip this place if you're coming in from out of town. Lemmon and Sedona are FAR better choices. Anyway - good eats in Scottsdale - 'the good egg' as the name suggests made a respectable omlette, but big kudos to CHOMPIES.... really phenomenal food. Great GREAT dinner / atmosphere at place in Scottsdale - the restaurant inside the Westin Kierland - Deseso. Oh... the cookies in the coffee shop at the westin are also worth mentioning. :)
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