|
therat
May 14, 2008, 1:46 AM
Post #1 of 13
(600 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2005
Posts: 64
|
Several routes on the south face of Devils Tower, including the popular Durrance route, have been closed by the NPS to protect nesting prairie falcons. This is the first time this popular side of the Tower has been closed since the Climbing Management Plan took affect in the mid 90's.
Everything from "POTC" east to "WATERFALL" will be closed until young falcons fledge... probably sometime between July 15 and August 1.
The closure also includes the more popular rappel routes off the south face.
For more info, check out:
www.nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/currentclimbingclosures.htm
DO NOT let this closure negatively affect your trip plans! There are several other very good, moderate routes that summit the Tower:
TAD 5.7
Bon Homme Variation 5.8
El Cracko Diablo 5.8
Soler 5.9- (4 STARS!)
Walt Bailey Memorial 5.9 (10a for some...)
Assemblyline 5.9 (4 STARS!)
|
|
|
|
|
justplanecrazy
May 14, 2008, 11:25 PM
Post #2 of 13
(535 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 15
|
@$*t, f*#k, *#*, @&$, son of a *#&@&@... what the @*#&!!!
I plan a 14 hour trip out there for the first time after living only seven hours away for 3 years without visiting, and now they, close the money route to drag my girlfriend up???
Are there any other routes that would be similar in quality to the Durrance that are less than 5.8?
edited to add: Just read the above post after I stopped seeing red. What would you suggest would be the best route ranked from best to worst of those listed above?
(This post was edited by justplanecrazy on May 14, 2008, 11:30 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
chossmonkey
May 14, 2008, 11:37 PM
Post #3 of 13
(530 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
|
justplanecrazy wrote: @$*t, f*#k, *#*, @&$, son of a *#&@&@... what the @*#&!!! I plan a 14 hour trip out there for the first time after living only seven hours away for 3 years without visiting, and now they, close the money route to drag my girlfriend up??? Are there any other routes that would be similar in quality to the Durrance that are less than 5.8? edited to add: Just read the above post after I stopped seeing red. What would you suggest would be the best route ranked from best to worst of those listed above?
|
|
|
|
|
justplanecrazy
May 14, 2008, 11:39 PM
Post #4 of 13
(527 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 15
|
Whats wrong with the Durrance and the big block that's continuously shifting? Or is it just the drag part that wouldn't make her happy?
|
|
|
|
|
stefanohatari
May 14, 2008, 11:46 PM
Post #6 of 13
(520 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 9, 2004
Posts: 88
|
justplanecrazy wrote: Whats wrong with the Durrance and the big block that's continuously shifting? Or is it just the drag part that wouldn't make her happy?
The second pitch could spell the end of your relationship. Is she down with 60 feet of arm-barring and heel-toe? Can you set up a 3:1 for her? Does she like thrashing? If you can't answer yes to any of the above questions, then consider an alternate route--which you are doing anyway, with the closure.
|
|
|
|
|
justplanecrazy
May 14, 2008, 11:50 PM
Post #7 of 13
(518 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 15
|
Thanks for the heads up... what would you suggest for a soft alternate to make it to the top. Just want to give her an alpine style experience without the difficult climbing, seeing as she's new to the sport.
Anyone know how to Fledge a Falcon?
(This post was edited by justplanecrazy on May 14, 2008, 11:53 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
chossmonkey
May 15, 2008, 12:09 AM
Post #8 of 13
(507 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
|
justplanecrazy wrote: Thanks for the heads up... what would you suggest for a soft alternate to make it to the top. Just want to give her an alpine style experience without the difficult climbing, seeing as she's new to the sport. Anyone know how to Fledge a Falcon?
(This post was edited by chossmonkey on May 15, 2008, 12:10 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
therat
May 15, 2008, 12:44 AM
Post #9 of 13
(485 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2005
Posts: 64
|
chossmonkey wrote: justplanecrazy wrote: Thanks for the heads up... what would you suggest for a soft alternate to make it to the top. Just want to give her an alpine style experience without the difficult climbing, seeing as she's new to the sport. Anyone know how to Fledge a Falcon? Do ElCracko Diablo. There are a ton of face holds so you (she) don't need to jam as much. The book says that there is offwidth, but it lies. Durance is almost all offwidth/squeeze chimney anyway. A #4 Camalot is nice to have on ElCracko but by that time there are enough other holds that you don't need to resort to offwidth technique.
Although TAD is rated easier, the semi-hanging belay you have to suffer through sucks pretty bad. El Cracko is probably the second easiest summit route. It's also one of those routes you sew up with big stoppers up to a #3 Camalot.
If El Cracko looks like I-90, SOLER is rated 9-... but NO TECHNICAL CRUX. Just two continuous pitches of bomber hands.
|
|
|
|
|
justplanecrazy
May 15, 2008, 1:02 AM
Post #10 of 13
(475 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 15
|
sweet... great beta. My current rack is camelot .75-4 and Metolius 1-7 and a full set of nuts with some doubles. I'm thinking of picking up a Metolius 8 or equivalent. Will this work for ElCracko, Soler, or TAD? I guess I should probably lose the tiny metolius cams too.
What are the worthy climbs that don't top out, 5.10 and below?
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
May 15, 2008, 1:16 AM
Post #11 of 13
(469 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
justplanecrazy wrote: sweet... great beta. My current rack is camelot .75-4 and Metolius 1-7 and a full set of nuts with some doubles. I'm thinking of picking up a Metolius 8 or equivalent. Will this work for ElCracko, Soler, or TAD? I guess I should probably lose the tiny metolius cams too. What are the worthy climbs that don't top out, 5.10 and below?
Too many to count.
Also, the last few days have sucked, especially since we bailed yesterday during the good weather window and it rained more or less all day today. Tomorrow and friday are supposed to be rad, but just keep in mind that May in Wyoming tends to be wet.
|
|
|
|
|
justplanecrazy
May 15, 2008, 2:53 AM
Post #12 of 13
(443 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 15
|
So just to make sure I have this right...
With the current closures:
-Tad is the easiest way to the summit but has a crappy belay
-ElCracko is the second easiest and has face holds with big plentiful gear but can get crowded
and,
-Soler is a consistent 5.9 with big hands.
Anything else to note?
|
|
|
|
|
chossmonkey
May 15, 2008, 11:28 AM
Post #13 of 13
(417 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
|
justplanecrazy wrote: So just to make sure I have this right... With the current closures: -Tad is the easiest way to the summit but has a crappy belay -ElCracko is the second easiest and has face holds with big plentiful gear but can get crowded and, -Soler is a consistent 5.9 with big hands. Anything else to note?
I would do Walt Bailey Memorial over Soler any day.
Burning Daylight, Belle Fourche Buttress, Casper College, New Wave, Broken Tree, Back to Montana, and One-Way Sunset are all good tens. There are others as well. El Matador is more novel than good, but well worth doing once.
Spend some time on the West Face. It seems like it is closed more often than not. The routes on the west Face are generally all pretty good but there are only a few 10s.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
