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stymingersfink
May 23, 2008, 6:33 PM
Post #2176 of 26795
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wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: A park pass still seems like a good idea, but I see what you are saying. Thanks for the tower beta. It seems that sneaking in if possible is the way to go, I've heard that from others as well. Frank sounds like a cool guy, I'd be happy to help him out with work or whatever if he'd let me pitch my tent. I might drop you a pm on his specific info... The reasons you mention are exactly why I'd like to get a truck...but only for even trade. I'd be super convienent to be able to just pull over and sleep wherever comfortably and with a reasonable chance of no one being the wiser, which you can't really do in a car. That campground registration trick sounds good, haha. That goes in line with what Bec was saying about meeting folks to share a site with. I hear what you are saying about the popular areas. We'll see, I guess. I've been going back and forth about getting Rock N Road, but I think I might, just to have an encyclopedia of areas; I've never heard of Cochise (well, I think I've seen a reference to it here and there). It sounds great, though. Vedawoo looks great, as well. If you already have a park pass there is no need to sneak into the Tower. Having a park pass is nice for rest days too. I have went to a lot of places that I normally wouldn't have coughed up the $20 for a half a day I spent there when passing through. You can PM Frank. He is Bigwally on here. Get a station wagon. We met a guy who had his wagon all set up for covert sleeping. He said he has slept in residential areas before. Just roll in late. Go to sleep and leave in the morning. Just make sure it is legal to park where ever you park.  Poaching camping kinda goes with what Bec was saying about sharing, but not really. If you do poach make sure you have a good story. And you still could get a ticket. Sharing sites really isn't poaching, since the site is paid for. Rock n' Road is nice, but it won't tell you anything you can't find on the NET. On the other hand you can't flip through the NET when you don't have a computer or internet service. If you wanted to leave a huge deposit we have a ton of guide books. Most are irreplaceable though but we have some off the wall places. R&I used to have mini guides years ago in every issue. I've hit some really cool backwater places. Here is a tip. If you see a guidebook for a place you would like to visit someday, (and it isn't the Red where they come out with a new book every two years) BUY IT. I have books I've bought years ago and still never used, but the books have been out of print and you can't find them anywhere. And don't buy Falcon books unless you need to, those sadly will never go out of print and are generally fucked up. http://www.rockclimbing.com/.../Cochise_Stronghold/ Vedauwoo is cool. Really sharp though. Bring lots of tape. Jack also rated everything there.  Cool, I will have to PM him. I was just looking at his profile, he seems like a nice guy. You know, that is a really good idea about the station wagon. This might need some more thought.... Sty was giving me some bandit camping ideas for the valley. Like you said, there are ways around stuff. Maybe I will get by on my good looks.  I need a new computer, and am thinking about trying to get a cheap laptop to store photos and write on while I'm travelling. So if I can access the net, I guess I might be all set versus having something like Rock N Road. The $50 price tag seems a bit much, especially since you don't get any info on actual routes. Maybe I'll go to REI and flip through it again, maybe not... Thanks for mentioning your catelogue of books, maybe we can work something out. I was only originally interested in info in the main areas I'm visiting: Yosemite, Devil's, Squamish, RR, Indian Crk, Zion. But I'm definately getting more and more interested in the less popular areas, especially if I can work out partners. I saw some of your pics of Vedawoo, it looks great! I suck at offwidth, just haven't done much of it, so I will learn. Or turn into hamburger. The Falcon guides tend to be hit or miss for me. The New Hampshire one isn't that great, as I remember. Eric Horst wrote Rock Climbing West Virginia, Virginia & Maryland and did a pretty good job. He's definately selective in routes and skips a fair amount of good ones, IMO, but he also covers three states, so... I was going to get the "Rock Climbing Utah" guide, as it also seems to cover a broad range. What do you think, Sty?
You'll always run into someone where ever you're climbing that has THE guide for the area, YKWIM? I wouldn't worry too much about having a comprehensive guide for your destination of the week, as long as you know how to get there and can socialize with the locals you should be fine.
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stymingersfink
May 23, 2008, 6:39 PM
Post #2177 of 26795
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wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: A park pass still seems like a good idea, but I see what you are saying. Thanks for the tower beta. It seems that sneaking in if possible is the way to go, I've heard that from others as well. Frank sounds like a cool guy, I'd be happy to help him out with work or whatever if he'd let me pitch my tent. I might drop you a pm on his specific info... The reasons you mention are exactly why I'd like to get a truck...but only for even trade. I'd be super convienent to be able to just pull over and sleep wherever comfortably and with a reasonable chance of no one being the wiser, which you can't really do in a car. That campground registration trick sounds good, haha. That goes in line with what Bec was saying about meeting folks to share a site with. I hear what you are saying about the popular areas. We'll see, I guess. I've been going back and forth about getting Rock N Road, but I think I might, just to have an encyclopedia of areas; I've never heard of Cochise (well, I think I've seen a reference to it here and there). It sounds great, though. Vedawoo looks great, as well. If you already have a park pass there is no need to sneak into the Tower. Having a park pass is nice for rest days too. I have went to a lot of places that I normally wouldn't have coughed up the $20 for a half a day I spent there when passing through. You can PM Frank. He is Bigwally on here. Get a station wagon. We met a guy who had his wagon all set up for covert sleeping. He said he has slept in residential areas before. Just roll in late. Go to sleep and leave in the morning. Just make sure it is legal to park where ever you park. Poaching camping kinda goes with what Bec was saying about sharing, but not really. If you do poach make sure you have a good story. And you still could get a ticket. Sharing sites really isn't poaching, since the site is paid for. Rock n' Road is nice, but it won't tell you anything you can't find on the NET. On the other hand you can't flip through the NET when you don't have a computer or internet service. If you wanted to leave a huge deposit we have a ton of guide books. Most are irreplaceable though but we have some off the wall places. R&I used to have mini guides years ago in every issue. I've hit some really cool backwater places. Here is a tip. If you see a guidebook for a place you would like to visit someday, (and it isn't the Red where they come out with a new book every two years) BUY IT. I have books I've bought years ago and still never used, but the books have been out of print and you can't find them anywhere. And don't buy Falcon books unless you need to, those sadly will never go out of print and are generally fucked up. http://www.rockclimbing.com/.../Cochise_Stronghold/ Vedauwoo is cool. Really sharp though. Bring lots of tape. Jack also rated everything there. Cool, I will have to PM him. I was just looking at his profile, he seems like a nice guy.
You know, that is a really good idea about the station wagon. This might need some more thought.... Sty was giving me some bandit camping ideas for the valley. Like you said, there are ways around stuff. Maybe I will get by on my good looks. I need a new computer, and am thinking about trying to get a cheap laptop to store photos and write on while I'm travelling. So if I can access the net, I guess I might be all set versus having something like Rock N Road. The $50 price tag seems a bit much, especially since you don't get any info on actual routes. Maybe I'll go to REI and flip through it again, maybe not... Thanks for mentioning your catelogue of books, maybe we can work something out. I was only originally interested in info in the main areas I'm visiting: Yosemite, Devil's, Squamish, RR, Indian Crk, Zion. But I'm definately getting more and more interested in the less popular areas, especially if I can work out partners. I saw some of your pics of Vedawoo, it looks great! I suck at offwidth, just haven't done much of it, so I will learn. Or turn into hamburger. The Falcon guides tend to be hit or miss for me. The New Hampshire one isn't that great, as I remember. Eric Horst wrote Rock Climbing West Virginia, Virginia & Maryland and did a pretty good job. He's definately selective in routes and skips a fair amount of good ones, IMO, but he also covers three states, so... I was going to get the "Rock Climbing Utah" guide, as it also seems to cover a broad range. What do you think, Sty?
Aside from all the benefits of driving a Toyota, it's Low-Pro, easy to camp in/out of if you get the dark window tints, and if you drive it right gives the appearance of respectability, which can go far at times to prevent the traffic stop from even happening in the first place.
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dr_feelgood
May 23, 2008, 7:10 PM
Post #2178 of 26795
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epoch wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: epoch wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: So my partner and I are going to do a grade III this weekend at cannon. Ought to be fun. What about Cathedral? I'll be up there tomorrow. And if you are stoked about a grade III, you need to get out more. Grade III ought to take 2-3 hours. Leaves time for moar climbing. Jay- you got a campsite? IME says that cannon is unstable and really prone to rockfall until july-august, and we're considering cathedral. No. It's going to be a day trip. Considering that it is a measily 2 hour drive it most often is. Notch and I are going to leave hear early and hopefully get up there before the crowds really show up. I'd, ideally, like to get a few good climbs in. I think we're going to go for the Funhose-Pooh-Upper Refuse link up for climb #1 and I'd like to play on Didre or Intimidation (or both) after that. Who knows, I may end up talking him into some slab action at the end of the day. My plans are to beat myself up. The bad thing is that he climbs well below my level, so anything hard I'll be the ropegun which as we all know is somewhat taxing. IME is correct. I've heard reports about Cannon already this year with toaster - mini-fridge size blocks coming off. Our gym manager was up there on Wednesday, and I'll get a full report from him tonight. Are you leaving tonight or tomorrow? We'll have to "bump" into each other.
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chossmonkey
May 24, 2008, 1:37 AM
Post #2179 of 26795
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wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: I'm planning on being pretty flexible. That is a big part of the reason I'm going solo; I don't have to make plans with anyone. Being able to do whatever I want will be nice. When I was in Europe, I saw so many people who were ready to kill their travel buddy after spending 2-3 months living and coordinating their lives with another person 24 hours/day. But yes.Also, don't make plans to have anyone fly in and meet you either. Make them drive to wherever. If you are trying to get a piece of ass in Hueco and your buddy is flying into Phoenix the next day it makes it hard to pick between where you should be. Have fun on the couch tonight. A friend wanted to meet me in the creek, I wonder if I should make him drive from west virginia...
It is nice to have people lined up, but it really sucks to have set plans sometimes. Use your best judgment I guess.
I probably piss Bec off more than she does me.
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chossmonkey
May 24, 2008, 1:53 AM
Post #2180 of 26795
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wanderlustmd wrote: Cool, I will have to PM him. I was just looking at his profile, he seems like a nice guy. You know, that is a really good idea about the station wagon. This might need some more thought.... Sty was giving me some bandit camping ideas for the valley. Like you said, there are ways around stuff. Maybe I will get by on my good looks. I need a new computer, and am thinking about trying to get a cheap laptop to store photos and write on while I'm travelling. So if I can access the net, I guess I might be all set versus having something like Rock N Road. The $50 price tag seems a bit much, especially since you don't get any info on actual routes. Maybe I'll go to REI and flip through it again, maybe not... Thanks for mentioning your catelogue of books, maybe we can work something out. I was only originally interested in info in the main areas I'm visiting: Yosemite, Devil's, Squamish, RR, Indian Crk, Zion. But I'm definately getting more and more interested in the less popular areas, especially if I can work out partners. I saw some of your pics of Vedawoo, it looks great! I suck at offwidth, just haven't done much of it, so I will learn. Or turn into hamburger. The Falcon guides tend to be hit or miss for me. The New Hampshire one isn't that great, as I remember. Eric Horst wrote Rock Climbing West Virginia, Virginia & Maryland and did a pretty good job. He's definately selective in routes and skips a fair amount of good ones, IMO, but he also covers three states, so... I was going to get the "Rock Climbing Utah" guide, as it also seems to cover a broad range. What do you think, Sty?
The guy with the wagon had a frigging boat. A lot of modern wagons are pretty small. A small truck might be a better option, but the wagon might be worth looking into. if you get a truck you will have to find a topper too if it doesn't come with one.
There was a discount bookstore here in two that had R&R for $20. I don't know if they still have them or not.
Vedawoo has a lot of great hand and fist cracks too. Its just famous for its offwidths.
When I go on a trip I bring a whole pile of guidebooks. I don't use half of them, but is keeps my options open and it doesn't really take a huge amount of room.
Falcon can be very hit and miss. Even if the author tries really hard they still manage to fuck stuff up. Normally the authors don't even seem to try that hard though. Falcon is mostly interested in putting out a cheaper guidebook more people will buy. Sometimes it is unavoidable to buy one, but given a choice I'll always take the not Falcon book.
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chossmonkey
May 24, 2008, 1:59 AM
Post #2181 of 26795
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wanderlustmd wrote: Round and round we go. It will be fun no matter what. And you can't see everything in one trip, either.
There are always ups and downs. Being flexible really helps get through the bad times. Having a soloist or silent partner or being cool with freesoloing new routes can be great if you have a dryspell with partners. That said, I stopped by the Tower to ropesolo a route and ended up having more partners than I knew what to do with. So I stayed a few weeks and only moved on because Bec was flying into Vegas.
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snoopy138
May 24, 2008, 5:18 AM
Post #2183 of 26795
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granite_grrl wrote: stymingersfink wrote: the_climber wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: the_climber wrote: epoch wrote: carabiner96 wrote: Post #4000. Don't know where else to put it. *sniff* she makes me proud You're here. Guess that means you didn't crater. Good climb? Yes, yes. We need details aside from the rainy day story. trad tuesday is tomorrow. I'm stoked. I want a Trad tuesday. I did have a new route Saturday though. Enjoyed all 145m of it. Would have been completely hooped without pins. Fucked up one of my KB's though  . Damn twisted limestone cracks... mind you it wasn't over driven, tied off actually and was likely my best piece in the top half of the first pitch. Pics, when I find the sync cord for my camera. From what I've observed, any talk of actual climbing should not be happening within this thread. You're a dumbass.
this is quite obviously kerect.
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granite_grrl
May 24, 2008, 11:56 AM
Post #2184 of 26795
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wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: wanderlustmd wrote: chossmonkey wrote: chossmonkey wrote: Are you planning on going to Cochise Stronghold? I think you can camp and climb for free there. And there is everything from bouldering to multi pitched routes on granite. The guidebook is tough to get you hands on though.Yes, I have two copies. Two different editions. I might be persuaded to lend on out with a hefty deposit. Or let you photo copy the parts you want. Not that you would want to stop in this wasteland. Let me look it up, I know next to nothing about the place. If I decide to go, I would give you a deposit on the book if you are willing to lend it. If it's such a cool area, why is the guide so hard to find? Its not the cool new envouge area and there probably isn't a shit ton of new development happening. They were made in a single printing and they only printed however many they thought they could sell. I suppose there isn't enough demand yet to reprint. I almost sold my first edition to Redlegrangerone way back when for a good amount of money. Well, if the climbing is good, then the climbing is good. It really is a mixed thing. I mean, you hear about Yosemite this and Yosemite that, and rightfully so i guess. But that's where all the people are. Crowds suck, but you won't lack partners. Then you have the backwater areas with just as good rock quality but are not as big, and less people...but less partners. Round and round we go. It will be fun no matter what. And you can't see everything in one trip, either.
And sometime you'll meet people climbing at the crowded area that you'll follow to climb with at the uncrowded area. When I went on my road trip I met up with Nathan, then we went to Hueco, and from there I just went with the flow because of people I met from area to area.
There will be other people road tripping you'll end up meeting over and over again (and arrange to meet up with again).
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granite_grrl
May 24, 2008, 11:59 AM
Post #2185 of 26795
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So I made an early reply to the current helmet thread and I've been holding off on replying ever since. I don't feel like getting into a pro vs anti helmet argument. I'm pretty pro helmet, but realize that in many situations they'll do squat.
I have no desire to try to convince anyone that they should wear a helmet.
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chossmonkey
May 24, 2008, 3:16 PM
Post #2186 of 26795
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granite_grrl wrote: So I made an early reply to the current helmet thread and I've been holding off on replying ever since. I don't feel like getting into a pro vs anti helmet argument. I'm pretty pro helmet, but realize that in many situations they'll do squat. I have no desire to try to convince anyone that they should wear a helmet.
Worthless without a link.
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chossmonkey
May 24, 2008, 3:19 PM
Post #2187 of 26795
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Not that it is overly busy here this morning.
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chossmonkey
May 24, 2008, 3:26 PM
Post #2188 of 26795
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So by "early reply" you mean a week or year ago?
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chossmonkey
May 24, 2008, 7:19 PM
Post #2190 of 26795
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Since most people probably don't spend in the bouldering forum I'm cross posting this.
Nice work Snoop. I laughed my ass off.
snoopy138 wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: majid_sabet wrote: clausti wrote: hey majid how about you shut the fuck up. eh? You must be Cam's GF Nice to know you too You obviously don't understand the process of shuttting the fuck up. with over 37 posts per day, obviously neither due you. |
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dr_feelgood
May 25, 2008, 3:53 AM
Post #2191 of 26795
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Yup. Exhausted. Lost my nuts and my dignity. Long story.
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epoch
Moderator
May 25, 2008, 1:13 PM
Post #2193 of 26795
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I had some bad Mexican food last night.
My drive home wasn't all that good.
I don't know why I am awake again.
Going back to bed now.
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dr_feelgood
May 25, 2008, 1:57 PM
Post #2194 of 26795
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epoch wrote: I had some bad Mexican food last night. My drive home wasn't all that good. I don't know why I am awake again. Going back to bed now.
I thought the mexican food was delicious.
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epoch
Moderator
May 25, 2008, 3:20 PM
Post #2195 of 26795
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dr_feelgood wrote: epoch wrote: I had some bad Mexican food last night. My drive home wasn't all that good. I don't know why I am awake again. Going back to bed now. I thought the mexican food was delicious.
It was delicious.
The part where I lost my dinner 15 minutes from home, however was not. Maybe it was something else, but I felt like crap about an hour after we ate. I still have a mild headache this morning.
Oh, and how are those calves?
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dr_feelgood
May 25, 2008, 3:27 PM
Post #2196 of 26795
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epoch wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: epoch wrote: I had some bad Mexican food last night. My drive home wasn't all that good. I don't know why I am awake again. Going back to bed now. I thought the mexican food was delicious. It was delicious. The part where I lost my dinner 15 minutes from home, however was not. Maybe it was something else, but I felt like crap about an hour after we ate. I still have a mild headache this morning. Oh, and how are those calves?
That blows. Vomiting on the side of the road is never fun.
We got stopped at a border patrol checkpoint on 93 south and asked if we were american citizens. Kind of wierd.
How about some pictures:
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dr_feelgood
May 25, 2008, 3:28 PM
Post #2197 of 26795
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Me watching my nuts tumble to their new owners.
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chossmonkey
May 26, 2008, 12:05 AM
Post #2198 of 26795
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dr_feelgood wrote: [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/P5240018.jpg[/IMG] Me watching my nuts tumble to their new owners.
Fuckin' n00bs!!
Why didn't you rap down and get them?
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stymingersfink
May 26, 2008, 12:52 AM
Post #2199 of 26795
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chossmonkey wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/P5240018.jpg[/IMG] Me watching my nuts tumble to their new owners. Fuckin' n00bs!! Why didn't you rap down and get them?
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epoch
Moderator
May 26, 2008, 2:33 AM
Post #2200 of 26795
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stymingersfink wrote: chossmonkey wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/P5240018.jpg[/IMG] Me watching my nuts tumble to their new owners. Fuckin' n00bs!! Why didn't you rap down and get them? They probably landed in someone's purse.
It was entertaining on my part. Notch and I were walking back to the car and we passed this guy with a somewhat bewildered look on his face. He looked familiar, though where from? I had doc's number and was going to call him later, but my curiosity got the better of me and I gave him a rang. I called him as, what I suspect, he was posting a message on the board thar at the parking area.
He ended up borrowing notch's nuts.
Doc, the nutless wonder...
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Re: [wanderlustmd] The Lounge™
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