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stevematthys
Oct 31, 2002, 11:03 PM
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Before you guys flame me on this I would like to say that i am considering placing some bolts for top rope anchors. The rocks I would be developing are on some property my uncle owns and he said I could do what ever I wanted to with the rock. I have not bought any drills, bolts or hangers yet, but I was wondering if you guys could answer some questions I had? Now don't assume that I am going to try to place the bolts by myself because I am not a guy my friend knows is going to help us (he has put a many sport routes), but I have not talked to him and I would like to know a little something to make sure that he is not going to kill me with the bolts. So here is my question: How hard do you torque the bolts into the rock and how do you know when you have torqued them enough? Also, i have been told that he has used expansion bolts (concrete anchors) from a hardware store for anchor points when in a pinch, is this safe? Thanks for any help you can get, and before you flame me, remember I am considering it and plan to get help.
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boltakrak
Nov 1, 2002, 1:12 AM
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you are a freaking retard if you do not know how to bolt. i have put so many sport routes i can not count them all on both hands. why dont you just go home and stick your head in the sand. loser.
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john1987
Nov 1, 2002, 1:22 AM
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"you are a freaking retard if you do not know how to bolt. i have put so many sport routes i can not count them all on both hands. why dont you just go home and stick your head in the sand. loser." What are you talking about. I don't know how to bolt and I don't consider myself a loser!!! What if I said that you are a freaking retard because you don't know how to snowboard. Hell anything. You can't know how to do absolutly everything until someone teaches you or you learn it yourself and you obviously don't learn to bolt by yourself. Hello!!! [ This Message was edited by: john1987 on 2002-10-31 17:28 ]
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ryanguy
Nov 1, 2002, 1:43 AM
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Hey Steve, I see that you are trying to aviod the ethical hotheads. Fortunately I am not one. Thats great you are being cautious about bolting and asking questions in my mind is much more admirable than just going out and experimenting. I was in your shoes a few years ago when I started putting up routes. Good advice went a long way. The main thing you have to do is make sure the rock you're drilling into is as solid as possible. Determine this by tapping around with a hammer, not too hard to avoid creating cracks. Experiment with this a little to hear what crap rock sounds like (hollow). Next is the quality of the bolts. Hardware store bolts while probably as strong as real climbing bolts are generally galvanized and will rust out much sooner than stainless. My advice is to either by rawl or fixe bolts or stainless expansion bolts used for concrete. When placing them make sure the hanger will lie flat and drill the hole perpendicular. As far as cranking on the bolt there is a happy medium. You want it to be solid enough not not come loose but not too tight as to strip the thread. You will know when this happens. That is about all the advice I can give you in a nut shell. If you have any more questions you could PM me. Just make sure you do it as safely as possible. Getting an experienced friend is a great idea. Cheers, Ryan
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joemor
Nov 1, 2002, 1:50 AM
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dont use hardware store anchors..... bolts last a long time and its worth putting the best bolt in you can rather than the cheepist you could find. next in regards to torque... get a: from the manufacturer the appropiate torque settings for the bolts you will be using. b: get a torque wrench. that way they will be set correctly instead of torqued up so much there on the verge of the heads shering off. next have u considered glueins? just somthing to think about. joe
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rrrADAM
Nov 1, 2002, 2:19 AM
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Steve, Read this... http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=3153&forum=40 Click the links to the ASCA, and just follow the MFRs guigelines for torquing. Any questions, just ask. ~Adam
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stevematthys
Nov 1, 2002, 2:21 AM
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thanks for the links and replies, they were helpful!
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boltakrak
Nov 3, 2002, 11:27 PM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2002
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my name is stevematthys and i can't bolt, i sur do suck, why don't you be mor like me and get some skills, i can lead up to 5.7 so i am a badass
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shawkshaw
Nov 4, 2002, 12:46 AM
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id definitely consider glue ins if the rock is soft. expansion bolts can work loose over time in rock like sandstone. in this case use glueins which are solid as. although a little more complicated to place. steve
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timpanogos
Nov 4, 2002, 1:00 AM
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Registered: May 17, 2002
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boltakrak, See the thread on banning - then do us all a favor and ban youself for being a jerk and perpetuating very dangerous attitudes and behavior. Steve, listen closely to rrraddam, he knows what he is talking about - ignore the jerk.
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ajkclay
Nov 12, 2002, 3:08 AM
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Registered: May 9, 2002
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Is Boltakrak giving everyone else the sh*ts? BAN THIS KID QUICKLY! Or, wait another five minutes and his daddy will tell him off for playing with the computer, send him to his room, and ban him from watching sesame street for a week. GET LOST YA JERK! Edit: Boltakrak = Sparky? Take note how many times they come up on the same forum + also same email provider (?) + similar syntax. [ This Message was edited by: ajkclay on 2002-11-11 19:48 ]
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micronut
Nov 12, 2002, 3:28 AM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2002
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Think about putting one bolt in the center of the boulder, and then sling it long so you can TR all the way around, instead of trying to put a station above every route. And I second that no using cheap metal grades statement. I did it in Canada, and I later went back and pulled them way too easily. Boltakrak, you are a wanna-be headcrack, but not nearly as good. [ This Message was edited by: micronut on 2002-11-11 19:30 ]
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