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angry
Jan 24, 2008, 4:56 PM
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ptftw!!
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wmfork
Jan 24, 2008, 5:03 PM
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k.l.k wrote: And it may not be an accident that all of those folks have made their careers well outside the gym, notably in bouldering or trad climbing in the case of Potter, where height can often work to advantage due to the popularity of big span and dynamic moves these days. |
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artm
Jan 25, 2008, 1:02 AM
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Hey no BET stuff outside the BET
DDT pm'd!
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morlebeke
Jan 25, 2008, 1:49 PM
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ok, engineer input here, many references to anecdotal evidence of height increases gaining more than linear increases in weight, and I loved the powerlifter analogy in performance. simply put it's a cubed:squared ratio. As height goes up, volume and thus weight goes up cubed, while strength goes up squared. grosly simplified rough estimate of 170cm vs. 180cm in height would yield 18.7% more weight but only 12.1% more strength.
also, as most others here, for the most part I believe that that height is a wash, and route dependent. The reach advantage is just so obvious to the casual observer, while the disadvantage of balancing up on a small edge with your hands at your waist (for vertically challenged) or your hands down at your hips ('tall') isn't as dramatically obvious.
I will say that for gym climbing, a route setter has to be good to make a challenging route for both the 6'+ or the 5'1" gymnast variant. most often, a route setter isn't that good and makes things more challenging simply by using smaller holds further apart.
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crricha13
Jan 27, 2008, 5:38 AM
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im about 6'5 6'6 i think being tall makes climbing easier maybe just because im a beginner, but bouldering is what i really enjoy because of the difficulty and i notice being tall my knees are higher on sitting starts than shorter guys, but i also can reach a higher hold that they may die for to grab. 
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Bouldering4life
Jun 1, 2008, 2:55 AM
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I have personally given this question a lot of thought. I am 6"2 with a +6 ape index. In my experience it is not necessarily a disadvantage to be tall. Rather, grades just do not correlate whatsoever for me. I have gotten on V12's that felt completely doable and then gotten on 4's that did not even feel possible. It seems to make my top end bouldering better when I find problems that fit me extremely well, but it makes it harder for me to be consistent at any grade. It may be different for route climbers, I would not know, but in bouldering there are often not many options for hands and feet you just have to work with what you have.
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mturner
Jun 1, 2008, 3:24 PM
Post #210 of 213
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Bouldering4life wrote: I have personally given this question a lot of thought. I am 6"2 with a +6 ape index. In my experience it is not necessarily a disadvantage to be tall. Rather, grades just do not correlate whatsoever for me. I have gotten on V12's that felt completely doable and then gotten on 4's that did not even feel possible. It seems to make my top end bouldering better when I find problems that fit me extremely well, but it makes it harder for me to be consistent at any grade. It may be different for route climbers, I would not know, but in bouldering there are often not many options for hands and feet you just have to work with what you have.
I agree with this but the same sort of assessment (not being consistent at one grade) can be said for most people of any height.
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cannibal_hect0r
Jun 9, 2008, 12:27 AM
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or a lower center of gravity
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GeneralBenson
Jun 9, 2008, 5:34 PM
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Bouldering4life wrote: I have personally given this question a lot of thought. I am 6"2 with a +6 ape index. In my experience it is not necessarily a disadvantage to be tall. Rather, grades just do not correlate whatsoever for me. I have gotten on V12's that felt completely doable and then gotten on 4's that did not even feel possible. It seems to make my top end bouldering better when I find problems that fit me extremely well, but it makes it harder for me to be consistent at any grade. It may be different for route climbers, I would not know, but in bouldering there are often not many options for hands and feet you just have to work with what you have.
That's about the best I've ever heard it put. I feel like besides the fact that grades are pretty irrelevant anyways; the further you get from "normal" the more irrelevant grades become. I'm 6'7 and that's really how it feels to me. It's not even about advantage or disadvantage, everything is just different. I'm the same way with inconsistency. I'm sooo inconsisten with grades. I sent v5 before I sent v3 or v4, and I still get smoked by v1's.
The other thing you brought, however, that I think does make a huge difference is ape index. PEople always debate height, but I think ape index is the really factor. I'm 6'7 with a -2 index, and you're 6'2 with a +6 index. Which essentially means that you've got the reach that I do, without the extra weight and miscrunchability. again though, I'm sure it's got it's pro and cons. But I do think that having a positive index is way better than just being tall.
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redpoint73
Jun 9, 2008, 6:08 PM
Post #213 of 213
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Bouldering4life wrote: I have personally given this question a lot of thought. I am 6"2 with a +6 ape index. In my experience it is not necessarily a disadvantage to be tall. Rather, grades just do not correlate whatsoever for me. I have gotten on V12's that felt completely doable and then gotten on 4's that did not even feel possible. It seems to make my top end bouldering better when I find problems that fit me extremely well, but it makes it harder for me to be consistent at any grade. It may be different for route climbers, I would not know, but in bouldering there are often not many options for hands and feet you just have to work with what you have.
God, with a height and ape index like that, you can probably just reach the top of most boulders while your feet are still on the ground!
Just reach up, mantle and SEND! 
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