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Adding to a rack (for specified areas)
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spikeddem


Jun 3, 2008, 2:56 PM
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Adding to a rack (for specified areas)
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Right now, I have a rack (combined with my partners) that will get up just about anything in the immediate area.

Here is our current list of protection:

Robot Cams (1-5)
Camalots (Doubles: .75-3;Singles:.4, .5, and 4)
1 red link cam
1 set bd stoppers (4-13)
tricams (pink, red, brown, blue)
hexes (Doubles: 4-10;Singles: 1,2,3,11) (I got a really good deal on these so that's why I have so many of them.)

Right now I'm thinking that if I need much else, it might be a set of smaller aliens and perhaps a set of ball nutz. I think the aliens might be a better investment. Since I'm not rushed to get them, I should be able to wait for a good deal and/or get ones pre-2004. If I buy aliens should I get them pull-tested regardless of their manufacturing date? From reading some things in the lab, it seems that aliens have been doing well with those pulls, but I was curious: If one breaks in a 5 kN pull-test, would CCH provide a replacement?

I'm looking at hopefully taking a trip before the end of the summer to Devil's Tower (any of the moderates there are potential climbs). However, is there anything else that would be important to have that would be very nice to have to allow me to go most places (ignoring places like Indian Creek)? We like crack climb just as much as face climbing.

Based upon my "Rack Simulator," it appears that I become a little low on pro once I get below 19 mm or so. Perhaps some smaller aliens and ball nutz together would help?

Thanks!


petsfed


Jun 3, 2008, 3:16 PM
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Re: [spikeddem] Adding to a rack (for specified areas) [In reply to]
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Get a #5 C4 (formerly the 4.5 or big red camalot) or the equivalently sized friend. The old big purple camalot is really the size you want, but nobody makes something that fills that gap very well.

Maybe get something down around blue or green alien, but keep in mind that the .3 C4 is approximately the same size as a green, and I never place anything smaller than a blue. That small and it is really difficult to place correctly in any situation.


doz


Jun 3, 2008, 8:44 PM
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In my neck of the woods it would be helpful to add a second set of nuts. If it was me I would get a different brand, it is nice to have different 2 shapes sometimes one style works way better than another in a particular crack. (Fitting around crystals, etc) I would also get a set of small brassies (not the 2 KN piano wire jobs for aid but small). And like you said the ball nuts are a good buy at least the 3 smaller sizes. Donít use them a ton but they are sure nice to have when you need them. Donít know what you climb but I am a fan of a few screamers set up like draws. Great for the 7 KN brassie below the crux and other sketchy placements.

Doz


morlebeke


Jun 4, 2008, 6:57 AM
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I do love my ball nuts, just got them before going to red rocks in april. such an advantage over passive nuts in that they'll fit in parallel cracks, even slightly flaring (though I tend to stick to parallel or less), and they resist outward pulls too. an advantage over the blue alien for example is that they're real shallow and narrow comparatively. thus in a shallow vertical crack they can be angled down where you couldn't get all the lobes of an alien in and angle it down. the disadvantage is horizontals over a lip, you don't want to place them where they'll kink, similar to a regular wired nut.

I also rack a couple #1 C3's that I use all the time, but I suspect that's personal preference because they place in cracks that are thin fingertips for my hand size.

so, if I were you, I'd add a set of ball nuts, a .3 c4, and a #1 C3 in that order.


jrathfon


Jun 4, 2008, 7:32 AM
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The first things I would add are a blue and green alien (one's that you feel comfortable with, i got like 02's). Some people love ball-nuts, but I think they are more of a specialty item, like a black alien, or an offset alien, or a #4 big-bro. You can get by without them on almost anything, and I'd only buy one for a specific route. Never never land at the gunks takes a ball-nut, but then again that section is 5.8 and you can do some nut jiggery in a horizontal, then blast up to the bolt before the 10a crux, so if you NEED the ball-nut, you shouldnt be on the route anyways.

Definetly double up your stoppers from like 4-8. i.e. the sizes just below regular cams (green alien, .3 C4), those are the ones I find I use several times in a pitch. Brassies are nice (the free ones not the aid ones), though don't get placed often, but I feel would come more in handy than ball nuts or a #4 big bro. Getting a 2nd shape is good, but I got very familiar with BD stoppers, so I just carry doubles in those.

After you get 2 small cams and 4 or 5 double nuts, get doubles for your .4 and .5 C4's! I place multiple purples and greys on most routes.

It's all preference: in the east you don't need much big gear cause the OW's are usually short or have horizontals or fractures for small gear. I rarely leave the ground with a #3 C4 or bigger unless I know a route calls for it.

When onsighting long multi-pitches I take a double rack of C4's from 0.4 to 2, a 0.3 C4, either/or a blue and green alien or a 0 and 1 C3 (same sizes), the same 4 tricams you got, and nuts: 3 brassies (smallest free), singles from 3-11 and doubles from 4-9. I'll add one or two #3's a #4, drop the small gear, leave the tricams depending. Tricams and nuts are awesome for belays, it allows you to save your real cams for those tough spots. When you carry a blue/green or 0/1 small cam combo, you've already doubled your 0.3 C4. I don't use nuts often (cams are much easier, more secure (can take outward pull), and quicker, especially for your 2nd, most of the time), when I do, its a perfect nut placement, or sh!t's to small to take a good cam.

As far as aliens or C3's: C3's are bomber in granite or good rock. We have this crap gneiss around here that is sandy and is soft, trusting a 0 or even worse a 00 C3 is pretty bad. Blue (and in the worst case black) aliens are 4 lobed, which means you have 2 points of failure instead of 1. Last month I landed on a blue alien and 2 lobes pulled, but it still caught me, and was no worse for wear. Try that with a C3 and you'll go splat. But man I've put some bomber C3's in super tiny holes in granite and the gunks quartzite, so they have their place, I don't even take the aliens up granite any more.

For slings on long multi-pitches with long pitches I'll take 10 trad draws and 2 double lengths, triple them like a trad draw, then twist it up and clip the one biner to the other. That way if you run out of singles, you can just clip the double on and unclip the one biner, instant single length, to super-extend from there, just pull out the tripling.

That's me on 150ft pitches with no idea what to take, save that I'm not hitting OW. I will pear down considerably for shorter single pitches, things I'm red-pointing, knowingly thin routes, etc.


(This post was edited by jrathfon on Jun 4, 2008, 7:39 AM)


granite_grrl


Jun 4, 2008, 8:18 AM
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I found that most pitches on the Tower either loved nuts, or was a crack loving a certain range of cam sizes.

Doubles in cams should be a good start, but I highly recomend you getting a second set of nuts. A couple of larger pieces would be good in general, but are not tower critical (unless you're looking at something like the Durrance, which I hear is wide, but I never actually got to get on it to be honest).


the_climber


Jun 4, 2008, 8:24 AM
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Re: [jrathfon] Adding to a rack (for specified areas) [In reply to]
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jrathfon wrote:
Definetly double up your stoppers from like 4-8.
As far as doubling up on stoppers goes this is about what I'd recommend (I like a second #9 size, but that's more determined by area). As you already have pink through blue tricams that effectively has already doubled the larger sized stoppers.

As for small cams, be bothe aware and wary of rock type. Ball nuts are great and I am starting to use them quite a lot these days. You don't place them like a cam though, just like how you don't place a tricam like a SLCD, different tool different skill to place them. As for small cams, MY personal preference at this pinot is either Metolius or C3. That said in the local Limestone (Canadian Rockies) I have always been wary of small cams, and would trust a well place ballnut over a well place small cam in my local stone. Climbing something like Bugaboos granite is different, a well placed piece of gear there is just that, well placed.


spikeddem


Jul 19, 2008, 9:35 PM
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Re: [the_climber] Adding to a rack (for specified areas) [In reply to]
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Thanks for the recommendations!

I ended up getting the following:

Mastercams: 1-4
Nuts: 4-9 (doubles, now)
Micronuts: (3-5)
C4s: .4-3

Yeah, this is triples of C4s for .75-3 (and quadruples/quintuples if you count my mastercams and link cam). However, since none of the C4s were on my rack, and I won't be with this partner forever, I picked up these cams. They were 25% off at MGear.com for their big sale. Woohoo!


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