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dta95b7r
Jun 4, 2008, 4:41 PM
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I was thinking of flaking the rope in a backpack with cloves on lockers every 15ft or so. So in my head I see the rope running over my shoulder when the lockers in front of me I can bite the rope undo the clove with one hand. To me it seems like I can have the extra security of a backup w/o the pita-added danger of having to screw around with other backup options while climbing. Retarded idea or decent? Opinions...
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WVUCLMBR
Jun 4, 2008, 5:10 PM
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Whenever I pick up a hooker I use 3 condoms.....just in case. Just make sure you backup your backup.
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csproul
Jun 4, 2008, 5:14 PM
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I am assuming you are talking about rope solo application...I'd mention that before you get a host of answers more stupid than the ones you are likely to get anyway. I don't have a ton of experience rope soloing, but I do have some. I would think that tied overhand bights would be just as easy to untie with one hand and you wouldn't need all the lockers.
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majid_sabet
Jun 4, 2008, 5:17 PM
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WVUCLMBR wrote: Whenever I pick up a hooker I use 3 condoms.....just in case. Just make sure you backup your backup.
Friends should always take care of firends so I have few left over G/F in RC. Would like to have one for free ?
Some can climb 5.11+
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WVUCLMBR
Jun 4, 2008, 6:25 PM
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His post was kinda vague. What i do is have a seperate dynamic line w/alpine butterflies every 5-8ft and 2 lockers that i clip the higher one then unclip the lower one.
I thought in his original post he was backing up his grigri for a n00b belayer or something.
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csproul
Jun 4, 2008, 6:30 PM
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Why a separate line? I've done the same with the lead line that I was using through the device (mine is a Soloist).
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WVUCLMBR
Jun 4, 2008, 6:38 PM
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First off I'm using a Cinch/homemade-chest-harness-thingy. I have only had one minor incident where it didn't catch due to body position. So the seperate line is something I only use on harder routes, not my training routes. I only started using the backup line after I read a climbing mag tech tip and thought it adds a bit of safety on the sketchy stuff. When rigged right it alows me to move upward very easily and I have the backup line there in case I feel the need to clip in due to anticipated body position. Also, in case you haven't read my profile I'm a big flippin n00b, I haven't died yet and I'm not really sure why.
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hafilax
Jun 4, 2008, 7:06 PM
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WVUCLMBR wrote: First off I'm using a Cinch/homemade-chest-harness-thingy. I have only had one minor incident where it didn't catch due to body position. So the seperate line is something I only use on harder routes, not my training routes. I only started using the backup line after I read a climbing mag tech tip and thought it adds a bit of safety on the sketchy stuff. When rigged right it alows me to move upward very easily and I have the backup line there in case I feel the need to clip in due to anticipated body position. Also, in case you haven't read my profile I'm a big flippin n00b, I haven't died yet and I'm not really sure why.
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stymingersfink
Jun 4, 2008, 9:56 PM
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dta95b7r wrote: I was thinking of flaking the rope in a backpack with cloves on lockers every 15ft or so. So in my head I see the rope running over my shoulder when the lockers in front of me I can bite the rope undo the clove with one hand. To me it seems like I can have the extra security of a backup w/o the pita-added danger of having to screw around with other backup options while climbing. Retarded idea or decent? Opinions...
Rope, flaked into a Black Diamond Speedbag. Anchor the end to my bottom anchor, thread grigri (properly!!!), clipping pro as I go. Once I get 25-30' off the deck and I've just placed a bomber piece, I'll pull out a 15-20' loop from the bag, cloving it to a locker clipped to my belay loop under my grigri. The length of this loop is such that by looking at the route I will have enough rope available to reach the next good stance (or good pro that I can clip directly to if necessary), where I will pull out another loop of slack, clove it to my locker as I remove the previous clove.
Now, obviously there are small moments where my backup system is not 100%, such as when I'm setting my new clove. However, this is always done after placing a good piece that I can clip directly to as needed, or at a good no-hands stance. The likelyhood of me falling while doing this is effectively zero, so I'm comfortable with it.
I have had moments where I don't clip directly to the piece, though it is at shoulder level and clipped, when I must do the clove-hitch shuffle with one hand. It can be a bit of a bitch sometimes.
OTOH, I would rather deal with this small problem, than to deal with a pre-tied knot catching on the lip of my Speedbag at a crucial point.
Let us know what you come up with.
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xtrmecat
Jun 4, 2008, 10:58 PM
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I also do a lot of roped solo, but on a soloist. Stymingersfink's method is exactly how I've been leading for over 5 years now and only once in a while does it get even remotely exciting because I've misestimated a distance or forgot to reclove. I also tie my next backup clove and lock it to my belay loop and then let out the one that got me there.
To me this is as simple and trouble free as rope solo can be. Cannot see why anyone would want to pretie knots, which can come up at a crux, catch on anything and everything.
Bob
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dta95b7r
Jun 5, 2008, 3:55 AM
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First I would like to thank you for the input. I'll have to post up when I test my proposed method of madness. I'm suprised I didn't get any you are going to die nonsense, refreshing.
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anthonymason
Jun 5, 2008, 5:25 AM
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Overall the idea is sound using a gri and a clove hitch, However if you can afford it buy a SILENT PARTNER, the one device designed to lead and TR with.
I have taken a twenty footer with mine, mind you it was exiting, but I knew it would stop me.
I use only 10.2-10.5 ropes with the SP, if using an 11mm rope expect to have the same pita system as with a clove and gri-gri
Just my noobish thought
Anthony
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guangzhou
Jun 5, 2008, 5:40 AM
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anthonymason wrote: Overall the idea is sound using a gri and a clove hitch, However if you can afford it buy a SILENT PARTNER, the one device designed to lead and TR with. Anthony
The soloist is designed for both too. I prefer the soloist, it's less bulky and easier to release after I fall.
Cheers
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dta95b7r
Jun 5, 2008, 12:14 PM
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I have tried the silent partner but I just don't feel as comfortable with it as I do with a grigri.
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