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caughtinside


Jun 13, 2008, 10:15 PM
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Re: [hugepedro] Why go to a gym? [In reply to]
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3 dollars to watch me touch this PTFTW.


k.l.k


Jun 14, 2008, 12:46 AM
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Re: [dingus] Why go to a gym? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
No self respecting republlican is going to be caught DEAD in his wife's hybrid.

Cheers
DMT

If that's true, then Curt is in serious trouble.


curlycrux


Jun 14, 2008, 3:00 AM
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Re: [Polarpeak] Why go to a gym? [In reply to]
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Being a new climber doesn't mean that your a poser.


Partner oldsalt


Jun 14, 2008, 1:57 PM
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Re: [Polarpeak] Why go to a gym? [In reply to]
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Polarpeak wrote:
So if I am brand new to climbing and suck... I should not go to a gym because I will look like a clueless poser? That is encouraging for someone going for the first time after work today.

I am convinced that you will find three types of people in a gym, and all three include ropers and boulderers...

1. Those who are training on plastic between trips to real rock.

2. Those who are maximizing their ratings indoors, and don't really care about going outdoors.

3. Those who like to flex and strut and try to impress those who go for that type.

Group 3 has the lock on poseurs.


chossmonkey


Jun 14, 2008, 2:09 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] Why go to a gym? [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
If you want to touch it that's two dollars.
How much for Brant to watch?


chossmonkey


Jun 14, 2008, 2:13 PM
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Re: [Onsight12s] Why go to a gym? [In reply to]
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Onsight12s wrote:
So I guess my question is. What is more important in a gym; The quality of the facility or the quality of people?
I would rather climb in a good facility.


MikaK


Jun 14, 2008, 6:03 PM
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As I live in a country where snow covers the rocks for some months of the year, gyms provide an opportunity to climb all year long.

As I normally go to the gym or outdoors with my wife and friends the quality of people withme is very good. If the other people at the gym are jerks it does not matter that much as I do not have to spend time with them.


Partner angry


Jun 14, 2008, 6:37 PM
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Re: [oldsalt] Why go to a gym? [In reply to]
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oldsalt wrote:

I am convinced that you will find three types of people in a gym, and all three include ropers and boulderers...

1. Those who are training on plastic between trips to real rock.

2. Those who are maximizing their ratings indoors, and don't really care about going outdoors.

3. Those who like to flex and strut and try to impress those who go for that type.

Group 3 has the lock on poseurs.

I'm none of those really.

I have more than ample access and time to real rock. Some months you'll find me on plastic though.

The climbing gym provides a pump that I find extremely challenging, no matter what I climb in my area, I can't simulate this on real rock.

I'm training specific weaknesses there often on days that I could climb outside if I like.

And number 3 too.


caughtinside


Jun 15, 2008, 12:45 AM
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Re: [chossmonkey] Why go to a gym? [In reply to]
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chossmonkey wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
If you want to touch it that's two dollars.
How much for Brant to watch?

$100 for Brant to watch.

Free for brent_e.


chossmonkey


Jun 15, 2008, 1:28 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] Why go to a gym? [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
chossmonkey wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
If you want to touch it that's two dollars.
How much for Brant to watch?

$100 for Brant to watch.

Free for brent_e.
I'm sure he'd like that, but Laura will likely be jealous.


clee03m


Jun 15, 2008, 8:00 AM
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I used to climb at a dusty, temperature uncontrolled, leaky roof facililty with great route setters and great people. Add that to a relatively small climbing community, and it really felt like a second home. Now I moved and climb at a temperature controlled, nice facility and I still miss the dusty old place. May be in time, this gym will feel like home, also, but not so far. May be having rocks really close by where gym isn't always necessary makes it less homey. Haven't really encountered cocky posers anywhere. Seems to me that climbers are ususally really nice whether they are beginners, experts, or in between. But I would think if they were around, it would be easy enough to ignore them.


Rocknovice


Jun 16, 2008, 9:34 PM
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Re: [clee03m] Why go to a gym? [In reply to]
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I go to a gym a few times a week because other than the one to two trips a year I am grateful to have outside, that is my only option in this state. Our gym has great route setters. I have been to sucky gyms and will take quality routes over awesome people. We are lucky to have nice people who train there too.


tedman


Jun 17, 2008, 7:24 PM
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Re: [angry] Why go to a gym? [In reply to]
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angry wrote:

There are other gyms but these 2 have super friendly staff. Staff you will see out climbing on the weekends. Always a smile. The people who come in are the same basic group and they are all cool. No posing, no attitude, rarely or ever do I see some shirtless dweeb or clueless chick in a sportsbra trying to look "uber".

Rockn and Jamn is a world class facility with equally high level people.

while I totally agree with the quality of rock n jam (I'm there 2-3 times a week), there definitely are a fair share of shirtless jocks posing. But I guess that inevitably comes when the gym population gets high enough. My favorite by far was the tool last week who showed up with full on taped crack gloves for his bouldering session... He totally thought he was hot shit. Wish I had brought my camera, oh well.


quiteatingmysteak


Jun 27, 2008, 7:43 PM
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Re: [Onsight12s] Why go to a gym? [In reply to]
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Onsight12s wrote:
I used to spend a lot of time in a gym in my home town. It wasn't a very nice gym. The walls had lost some texture, the rental shoes had holes, and you had a good chance of grabbing a spinner. I loved it, and the gym was always full of climbers. I soon figured out that it wasn't the walls, the holds, or the poor gear selection that was so appealing to people. It had everything to do with the quality of people that worked and climbed in the gym. So I guess my question is. What is more important in a gym; The quality of the facility or the quality of people?


I think the biggest reason to climb at a gym is simpe: the quality of climbing.


If you've climbed outside enough your constantly running into routes that are chossy, reachy, or flat out boring. The odds that rock is molded naturally into a "perfect route" are so low very few routes get 5 stars, which means very few are viewed by the world and the guidebook author to be as good as a route can be in a gym.



You see, in a gym, you have a veritable canvas. You can create the PERFECT route. Even bad routes at the gym are better than most routes outdoors. I've climbed Astroman and Crest Jewel and despite what Reid might say, they are AS GOOD as many of the super steep, super pumpy routes at the gym. In fact, in the gym, I can even eliminate holds to make it harder or add holds to make it easier. Where outdoors can you do that??? Some aid climbers use duct tape to mark sharp edges for future free climbers to use, but besides that there is no consensus for properly marking a route.

I've tried in the past to add holds to routes, but sometimes locals get pretty peeved. What I do now is just take up chockstones. If you want a long handcrack or fist crack to have good rests, you can just take some small stones and fix them into the crack. It creates a great rest to milk, you can use it as Pro, and best yet it makes the route more fun for other climbers (better routes are more fun!)


Now I climb almost exclusively inside. The variety can't be beaten. Last month I traveled all the way up the California coast, visiting every gym for a few days. I got super strong, and never had to touch a rock or hike an approach once! I defintely am going to apply my favorite types of climbs to some of my proj's in joshua tree this season. Earlier in May I used my cam-hold (camalot with a macro jug sewn into the sling) to help me send bachar cracker. I almost sent seperate reality with these, they really help.


Anyway, if anyone wants some more hints, drop me a PM. I'll be climbing while your stuck hiking crappy gear to a crappy cliff.


getout87


Jun 27, 2008, 7:47 PM
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Re: [quiteatingmysteak] Why go to a gym? [In reply to]
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quiteatingmysteak wrote:
Onsight12s wrote:
I used to spend a lot of time in a gym in my home town. It wasn't a very nice gym. The walls had lost some texture, the rental shoes had holes, and you had a good chance of grabbing a spinner. I loved it, and the gym was always full of climbers. I soon figured out that it wasn't the walls, the holds, or the poor gear selection that was so appealing to people. It had everything to do with the quality of people that worked and climbed in the gym. So I guess my question is. What is more important in a gym; The quality of the facility or the quality of people?


I think the biggest reason to climb at a gym is simpe: the quality of climbing.


If you've climbed outside enough your constantly running into routes that are chossy, reachy, or flat out boring. The odds that rock is molded naturally into a "perfect route" are so low very few routes get 5 stars, which means very few are viewed by the world and the guidebook author to be as good as a route can be in a gym.



You see, in a gym, you have a veritable canvas. You can create the PERFECT route. Even bad routes at the gym are better than most routes outdoors. I've climbed Astroman and Crest Jewel and despite what Reid might say, they are AS GOOD as many of the super steep, super pumpy routes at the gym. In fact, in the gym, I can even eliminate holds to make it harder or add holds to make it easier. Where outdoors can you do that??? Some aid climbers use duct tape to mark sharp edges for future free climbers to use, but besides that there is no consensus for properly marking a route.

I've tried in the past to add holds to routes, but sometimes locals get pretty peeved. What I do now is just take up chockstones. If you want a long handcrack or fist crack to have good rests, you can just take some small stones and fix them into the crack. It creates a great rest to milk, you can use it as Pro, and best yet it makes the route more fun for other climbers (better routes are more fun!)


Now I climb almost exclusively inside. The variety can't be beaten. Last month I traveled all the way up the California coast, visiting every gym for a few days. I got super strong, and never had to touch a rock or hike an approach once! I defintely am going to apply my favorite types of climbs to some of my proj's in joshua tree this season. Earlier in May I used my cam-hold (camalot with a macro jug sewn into the sling) to help me send bachar cracker. I almost sent seperate reality with these, they really help.


Anyway, if anyone wants some more hints, drop me a PM. I'll be climbing while your stuck hiking crappy gear to a crappy cliff.

Bravo. You really had me going there for a second.


IclimbNAKED


Jun 28, 2008, 1:58 AM
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Re: [Onsight12s] Why go to a gym? [In reply to]
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I would say that there isn't necessarily a trade-off between a quality gym and quality people. We have two gyms in my city, and I climb at one of them exclusively. I find it to be overall a pretty sweet gym allbeit a little small.

If I had to decide between a high-quality gym and high-quality patrons, I'd certainly pick the latter. The reason being that you can get a sweet little group of people chilling together and set problems yourselves, then request that your staff buddies grab the holds from the storage to complete your problems. There are some sweet routes at my gym, but in my opinion many of the boulder problems are lame. So we get a group together that is generally constituted by varying people and set our own routes- we just can't mark them. My gym is awesome because I know that I'll usually find someone to work-in with and meet some new people.


matthewsuckerpunch


Nov 6, 2008, 12:59 PM
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i used to climb outside 95% of the time. took a long break from climbing and started back recently at a gym, i went to the real rock sunday and it just seemed boring. i enjoi being outside when the weather is nice and dont mind being with friends on a nice day even if i only climb one or two decent climbs. i like the gym because the climbs are are more exciting to me and i dont have to worry about tie'n in and draggin a ton of shit down small trails. its a good place to work out. i only go with friends so i dont pay much attention to others unless im watching them climb something interesting. like it was said above, ur gonna find douchebags no matter where you go.


climb4free


Nov 7, 2008, 11:11 PM
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quiteatingmysteak wrote:
I think the biggest reason to climb at a gym is simpe: the quality of climbing.


If you've climbed outside enough your constantly running into routes that are chossy, reachy, or flat out boring. The odds that rock is molded naturally into a "perfect route" are so low very few routes get 5 stars, which means very few are viewed by the world and the guidebook author to be as good as a route can be in a gym.



You see, in a gym, you have a veritable canvas. You can create the PERFECT route. Even bad routes at the gym are better than most routes outdoors. I've climbed Astroman and Crest Jewel and despite what Reid might say, they are AS GOOD as many of the super steep, super pumpy routes at the gym. In fact, in the gym, I can even eliminate holds to make it harder or add holds to make it easier. Where outdoors can you do that??? Some aid climbers use duct tape to mark sharp edges for future free climbers to use, but besides that there is no consensus for properly marking a route.

I've tried in the past to add holds to routes, but sometimes locals get pretty peeved. What I do now is just take up chockstones. If you want a long handcrack or fist crack to have good rests, you can just take some small stones and fix them into the crack. It creates a great rest to milk, you can use it as Pro, and best yet it makes the route more fun for other climbers (better routes are more fun!)


Now I climb almost exclusively inside. The variety can't be beaten. Last month I traveled all the way up the California coast, visiting every gym for a few days. I got super strong, and never had to touch a rock or hike an approach once! I defintely am going to apply my favorite types of climbs to some of my proj's in joshua tree this season. Earlier in May I used my cam-hold (camalot with a macro jug sewn into the sling) to help me send bachar cracker. I almost sent seperate reality with these, they really help.


Anyway, if anyone wants some more hints, drop me a PM. I'll be climbing while your stuck hiking crappy gear to a crappy cliff.

"Thoughtful, witty, and IN YOUR FACE" rave Ebert & Roper.

"A grand spectacle, best read of 2008" - New York Times

Great post. Hope you find a way to get people to keep their hands on their own plate.


Goo


Nov 8, 2008, 6:20 AM
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quiteatingmysteak wrote:
Onsight12s wrote:
I used to spend a lot of time in a gym in my home town. It wasn't a very nice gym. The walls had lost some texture, the rental shoes had holes, and you had a good chance of grabbing a spinner. I loved it, and the gym was always full of climbers. I soon figured out that it wasn't the walls, the holds, or the poor gear selection that was so appealing to people. It had everything to do with the quality of people that worked and climbed in the gym. So I guess my question is. What is more important in a gym; The quality of the facility or the quality of people?


I think the biggest reason to climb at a gym is simpe: the quality of climbing.


If you've climbed outside enough your constantly running into routes that are chossy, reachy, or flat out boring. The odds that rock is molded naturally into a "perfect route" are so low very few routes get 5 stars, which means very few are viewed by the world and the guidebook author to be as good as a route can be in a gym.



You see, in a gym, you have a veritable canvas. You can create the PERFECT route. Even bad routes at the gym are better than most routes outdoors. I've climbed Astroman and Crest Jewel and despite what Reid might say, they are AS GOOD as many of the super steep, super pumpy routes at the gym. In fact, in the gym, I can even eliminate holds to make it harder or add holds to make it easier. Where outdoors can you do that??? Some aid climbers use duct tape to mark sharp edges for future free climbers to use, but besides that there is no consensus for properly marking a route.

I've tried in the past to add holds to routes, but sometimes locals get pretty peeved. What I do now is just take up chockstones. If you want a long handcrack or fist crack to have good rests, you can just take some small stones and fix them into the crack. It creates a great rest to milk, you can use it as Pro, and best yet it makes the route more fun for other climbers (better routes are more fun!)


Now I climb almost exclusively inside. The variety can't be beaten. Last month I traveled all the way up the California coast, visiting every gym for a few days. I got super strong, and never had to touch a rock or hike an approach once! I defintely am going to apply my favorite types of climbs to some of my proj's in joshua tree this season. Earlier in May I used my cam-hold (camalot with a macro jug sewn into the sling) to help me send bachar cracker. I almost sent seperate reality with these, they really help.


Anyway, if anyone wants some more hints, drop me a PM. I'll be climbing while your stuck hiking crappy gear to a crappy cliff.

whatever. i've never drawn blood in a gym before. boring, unintersting, sterile, lacks any sort of element of risk...

the only reason i've climbed in a gym is because it was pouring rain and 40 degrees outside.


i_h8_choss


Nov 8, 2008, 7:36 AM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Why go to a gym? [In reply to]
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coastal_climber wrote:
carbonrx8 wrote:
None of the above?

I'll second that. Wait until you go for a climb outside with a group of people you really enjoy, nothing compares.


>Cam


Ill 3rd that. Never climbed in a gym. Always climb outside. I went to visit a friend of a friend who worked at a gym. Watching all these people in a hot environment, sweating, bouldering, shakin elvis legs on leads. And Red Rocks was 15 mins away.!!! And it was April! One good thing maybe the corses and certs available at gyms. But cmon.... Id choose outdoors every single time, and I do own a hangboard.


quiteatingmysteak


Nov 8, 2008, 7:51 AM
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I drive past a gym on the way home and leave work when its dark. If its between climbing just on the weekends and no training or climbing in the gym, I'd like to keep in shape, even if its a slightly round one sometimes.


rtwilli4


Nov 8, 2008, 8:40 AM
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carbonrx8 wrote:
None of the above?
I'm so glad that was the first post. Saved a lot of my time.


clews


Nov 10, 2008, 7:11 PM
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most important is the people you climb with. as stated previously, it's hard to motivate yourself to train hard when you have no one to push you.

regarding those shirtless, muscle flexing, cocky, beta shouting posers... what's so wrong with that?

-i climb without a shirt because it's hot and i feel better when it's off... at least in the summer

-my muscles flex because that's what naturally happens when you climb... duh

-climbers generally aren't cocky so I don't know where that idea came from

-I shout beta because I quite enjoy working a boulder problem with a couple of friends and combining everyone's beta to solve the problem

-and last but not least, indoor climbing is it's own sport. I try to get outside as much as possible but it's hard to get out every weekend. I have many friends who have never been outdoor climbing and that's fine with me. Being an indoor climber doesn't make you a poser... it just makes you an indoor climber.


Partner cracklover


Nov 10, 2008, 7:48 PM
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Re: [tedman] Why go to a gym? [In reply to]
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tedman wrote:
while I totally agree with the quality of rock n jam (I'm there 2-3 times a week), there definitely are a fair share of shirtless jocks posing. But I guess that inevitably comes when the gym population gets high enough. My favorite by far was the tool last week who showed up with full on taped crack gloves for his bouldering session... He totally thought he was hot shit. Wish I had brought my camera, oh well.

Yesterday I had my tape gloves set by the time I got to Rockn N Jamn (North). I walked in the door wearing them. I don't give a shit what looks I got, or how many people who thought I was posing. I spent most of the afternoon working on the crack in the back room.

Have to admit, I took 'em off for my last two burns as the crux move I was working on was a very thin hand for me. But if I'd done that with no gloves all night, my hand would've been too raw to have made it through to the end of my session.

GO

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