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laanguiano
Jun 20, 2008, 4:38 PM
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Is it just me but if I'm making a top rope anchor with a Cordelette or my 1/2 24in slings I never can seem to tie a figure 8. I almost always have to tie an overhand masterpoint because there is not enough cord or its just to darn thick.
Anyone else have this problem? I may switch over to BD 10mm Slings so it will be easier.
(This post was edited by laanguiano on Jun 20, 2008, 4:42 PM)
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brownie710
Jun 20, 2008, 4:43 PM
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I have a 20' length of cordelette I use for anchors and I always have to tie a 8 so it takes up some of the length.
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shimanilami
Jun 20, 2008, 4:50 PM
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No.
Perhaps you need a longer cordalette.
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davrobj
Jun 20, 2008, 4:56 PM
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I always end up tying an overhand knot, but that's because I use the 1" tubular webbing; tying a figure-8 in that stuff would be tricky.
Plus, the 8 doesn't lay as nice as the overhand (in webbing)
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acorneau
Jun 20, 2008, 6:10 PM
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As a "general rule" I tie fig-8's in cord and overhands in webbing.
How long is your cordelette? Standard sizing is 18'-22', although I carry a few shorty triplettes for two-bolt rigging.
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laanguiano
Jun 20, 2008, 6:22 PM
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It was a short 2 bolt cordeletee... 6 ft, untied. And also with a 24in sling. Even with my double sling (48in) its still hard to do a figure 8 with 2 bolts. (Which is my prefered sling to use)
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reg
Jun 20, 2008, 6:22 PM
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laanguiano wrote: Is it just me but if I'm making a top rope anchor with a Cordelette or my 1/2 24in slings I never can seem to tie a figure 8. I almost always have to tie an overhand masterpoint because there is not enough cord or its just to darn thick. Anyone else have this problem? I may switch over to BD 10mm Slings so it will be easier.
what's the config. of the anchor? how about sliding X, equalette, webolette?
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laanguiano
Jun 20, 2008, 6:26 PM
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I can do a sliding X fine with overhand extension knots. There is enough room for that.
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doz
Jun 20, 2008, 6:27 PM
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As a tradie I usually carry 2’, 3’, 4’ slings, a cordalet and an equalet. If I am adventure climbing I also bring a 10’ rabbit runner. I also subscribe to the overhand knot in webbing and an eight on cord method as well. Sounds like you just need longer slings.
Doz
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laanguiano
Jun 20, 2008, 6:44 PM
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Webolettes are weird to me.
Clarification on equalette: Its basically the same as a Magic X with 2 limited extension knots, except each powerpoint strand gets a biner instead of turning one loop and putting both biners through... correct?
If all of you use overhand knots on your webbing, then ill guess Ill do the same on my slings since I'm infering you do the same with those.
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hafilax
Jun 20, 2008, 6:48 PM
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There's nothing wrong with an overhand knot and nothing special about the figure 8. The 8 might be marginally easier to untie.
Doz: The cordalet and equalet are essentially exactly the same thing with the difference being a couple of knots. Why carry two of them? What is a Rabbit runner used for?
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reg
Jun 20, 2008, 6:56 PM
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hafilax wrote: ..and nothing special about the figure 8. The 8 might be marginally easier to untie.
ummm....the figure eight is very special! when used at the power point with cordlette and properly laid and tightened - individual loops of the power point can be cut and the remianing loops will remian solid.
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hafilax
Jun 20, 2008, 7:14 PM
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reg wrote: hafilax wrote: ..and nothing special about the figure 8. The 8 might be marginally easier to untie. ummm....the figure eight is very special! when used at the power point with cordlette and properly laid and tightened - individual loops of the power point can be cut and the remianing loops will remian solid.
In general the figure 8 uses more cord and is easier to untie but the overhand is more versatile.
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chris
Jun 20, 2008, 10:02 PM
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I don't think it matters really if you tie an overhand, figure 8, figure 9, or BFK (Big Freakin' Knot).
Chris
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majid_sabet
Jun 20, 2008, 10:14 PM
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chris wrote: I don't think it matters really if you tie an overhand, figure 8, figure 9, or BFK (Big Freakin' Knot). Chris
it does matter cause 12 people in RC are waisting their time trying to figure out what knot is good and which one is bad.
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Jun 20, 2008, 10:14 PM)
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hafilax
Jun 20, 2008, 10:28 PM
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Wasting time is the only reason I come to RC.com.
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laanguiano
Jun 20, 2008, 10:36 PM
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I wouldnt call it wasting time MS.... I would call it bored at work. Plus there are always those questions that sometimes you wonder if anyone else has experienced.... lets give a few more examples.
Like do you make weird faces when you clean your ears? Do you put your TP so it rolls over or under on the dispenser? Do you wipe to your junk, or away from your junk when cleaning? Do you kick the urinal flusher, or do you use your hands?
All viable important matters!
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doz
Jun 21, 2008, 12:00 AM
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Hafilax-
I guess I should clarify. Yes, cordalet and equalet are essentially identical I just usually leave an equalet tied ready to use. I carry two because I do a lot of multi pitch and one will be on the belay station I am climbing away from and the second will be for the belay station I will build to bring up my second. Thus one will always be in use. Not exactly sure why I got in the habit of leaving one tied into an equalet and one not, I just do?!
As for the rabbit runner I generally only climb with it on multi pitch adventure climbs (climbing new routs/virgin rock-which I do a lot of, there is some advantages to living smack in the middle of the Rocky Mountains) where if I am building an anchor and cant get 3 good placements I can use the rabbit and put a piece a very long way away from the power point (still maintain an expectable angle) and then get a bomber anchor. Used it a lot actually. A pain in the but some times, yep! But better than having a crap anchor and having no clue what is above you, when your next placement is going to be, etc.
Doz
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doz
Jun 21, 2008, 12:30 AM
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laanguiano-
Go to the lab and start looking at thread there for the equalette. Just make sure to step over all the BS. Or use the search function.
Doz
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knudenoggin
Jun 24, 2008, 2:54 PM
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Outdoore Knots by Clyde Soles presents a bowlinesque method for tying
off a cordelette which is more material-efficient and much easier to untie
than traditional knots. [p.138]
*kN*
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