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rockfax
Jun 16, 2008, 6:35 AM
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Steve McClure, the UK's most talented sport climber repeated Rhapsody on Sunday 15th June.
Recently repeated by the Canadian Sonnie Trotter, this celebrated route by Dave MacLeod was the first route in the UK to get the E11 grade.
Full report, with photos and commentary at UKClimbing.com's News page:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
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camhead
Jun 16, 2008, 1:51 PM
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ok, Rhapsody is officially a trade route now.
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wraith
Jun 17, 2008, 12:10 AM
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Looks like the grade will stick from what i read. Thats just fantastic work.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jun 17, 2008, 12:20 AM
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camhead wrote: ok, Rhapsody is officially a trade route now.
You haven't done it yet?
It's fantastic.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jun 17, 2008, 12:41 AM
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j_ung wrote: camhead wrote: ok, Rhapsody is officially a trade route now. Some of us prefer "classic."
Murf just put up a classic the other week. Well, he hasn't sent it yet, but it's destined for Classic status.
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GeneralBenson
Jun 17, 2008, 1:16 PM
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devkrev wrote: camhead wrote: ok, Rhapsody is officially a trade route now. Next thing you know, Alex Honnold will be over there free-soloing it. dev
I think Lynn Hill just climbed it free in a single 24 hour push.
(This post was edited by GeneralBenson on Jun 17, 2008, 1:38 PM)
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henrikh
Jun 17, 2008, 1:19 PM
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GeneralBenson wrote: devkrev wrote: camhead wrote: ok, Rhapsody is officially a trade route now. Next thing you know, Alex Honnold will be over there free-soloing it. dev I think Lynn Hill just climbed it free in a single 24 hours push.
And the Huber´s halfed that ;)
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elwood54
Jun 20, 2008, 9:18 PM
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Shouldn't someone note that McClure TR'd the route a few times before attempting the lead, while I believe that Trotter did it ground up. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jun 20, 2008, 9:45 PM
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elwood54 wrote: Shouldn't someone note that McClure TR'd the route a few times before attempting the lead, while I believe that Trotter did it ground up. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks.
I'd be interested to know that answer - for in the movie First Ascent it shows Trotter working Cobra Crack on TR, but Didier it only shows working GU.
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hafilax
Jun 20, 2008, 11:27 PM
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I'm pretty sure Sonnie TR'd it but not positive.
I just checked his blog and he sent Rhapsody placing gear on lead (all 7 pieces). 
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wraith
Jun 21, 2008, 2:34 AM
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Did he pre place the gear?
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hafilax
Jun 21, 2008, 3:52 AM
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wraith wrote: Did he pre place the gear?
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wraith
Jun 21, 2008, 12:07 PM
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Is this the way Dave did it when he made the first ascent?
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sungam
Jun 21, 2008, 1:18 PM
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hafilax wrote: I'm pretty sure Sonnie TR'd it but not positive. I just checked his blog and he sent Rhapsody placing gear on lead (all 7 pieces).
What's this first E11 in the UK? surely the world? is there another?
All TR'd it, and lead without pre placing the gear, though sonnie did it once with the gear in place.
-MagnuS
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a.frosch
Jun 21, 2008, 1:19 PM
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All of them worked the moves on TR first. In the movie committed there is a shot of Sonnie topropoing the top moves. All three of them eventually sent placing all the gear on lead.
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sungam
Jun 21, 2008, 3:09 PM
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Wow. I understand repeated comments on like 10 page beasts, but surely you could read like 5 posts before throwing in some info?
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a.frosch
Jun 21, 2008, 3:13 PM
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If you'll notice, my post was 1 minute after yours, saying pretty much the same thing. So clearly yours went up as I was writing mine.
So STFU.
EDITED TO ADD: Congrats to Steve on a great send.
(This post was edited by a.frosch on Jun 21, 2008, 3:20 PM)
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zeke_sf
Jun 21, 2008, 6:28 PM
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devkrev wrote: a.frosch wrote: All of them worked the moves on TR first. In the movie committed there is a shot of Sonnie topropoing the top moves. All three of them eventually sent placing all the gear on lead. Way to read through all the post before commenting.  dev
Geez, a-hole, can't you see Sungam ground upped you on YOUR comment!
Way to read through! GAWD! SO.FUCKING.PISSED!
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sungam
Jun 21, 2008, 11:50 PM
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What can I say?
Shizzles ;P
-MagnuS
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Arrogant_Bastard
Jun 23, 2008, 4:10 PM
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zeke_sf wrote: devkrev wrote: a.frosch wrote: All of them worked the moves on TR first. In the movie committed there is a shot of Sonnie topropoing the top moves. All three of them eventually sent placing all the gear on lead. Way to read through all the post before commenting. dev Geez, a-hole, can't you see Sungam ground upped you on YOUR comment! Way to read through! GAWD! SO.FUCKING.PISSED!
Marnin' Yinz!
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