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Climbing_Pink
Jun 25, 2008, 1:16 PM
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Registered: Jun 10, 2008
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Just got back from the gorge Monday night. Really good trip. Nice weather even though it said thunderstorms all weekend. Very quiet at Miguel’s though, like -maybe- 20 tents.
We got in late Friday night, so no climbing  . So got up early and headed to the gallery at Pendergrass on Saturday. Rained a little, but then stopped.
I think it was there that I lead a really awesome 5 star 5.8, called 27 years of climbing. Did a couple 5.10's ... one my boyfriend Scott bailed off of
a Breif History of Climb 10C, because even though it looked really cool the beginning was sketched out (rock seemed like it was going to flake right off)
Then we went to the Shire. I'm still a beginner leader so I need some easier stuff (damn that mental block) There was a group of 15-20 camped out on the easier wall, so Scott lead some harder stuff (for me), Significant Other 10b and The G-Man 10C and also a 5.9 called Miranda Rain... I topped and cleaned. Managed to get on a 5.7 (Pee-Wee) there, but then we moved on.
After we went to the Zoo.... holy accent. It's like steep uphill for 20 minutes, I felt like an old woman once I got to the crag. It was getting dark so Scott jumped on a 5.12 (Hippocrite) it was like 40-50 feet high but -man- the overhang on that thing was brutal. (I found the guide book haha)
That night I had a pizza with sweet potatoes, spinach, ricotta and tofu  That's the only reason I go... then I climb to work off the calories... ha And I won at Jenga..... take that Scott
The second day was gorgeous! Had a little thunder at the first wall (Volunteer Wall) but it went away. Lead Swap Meet 5.6 there (go me) and toped two slabby technical 5.10b's (Nice to Know You) and Helping Hands 5.10d (the 5.10d kicked my butt)
The nice and suprisingly pumpy climb Darwin Loves You 5.9 was the last climb that we jumped on, then headed to Phatasia.
Climbed Pouge Ethics 5.9+, (on top rope after a serious debate if I had the guts to lead it.... I didn't) Awesome climb... highest I've ever been (still a beginner remember!) Then we moved onto probably the coolest technical slab ever, Overloard 5.10b right beside the rather odd 2 star Lord of The Flies 5.8 where you walk down a path to the anchors at the top.
It was starting to get late so we rushed down to Creature Feature (5.9) Scott lead it, then I jumped on it. The technical start kicked my butt and I smoked my chin off the rock then decided 13 hours on climbing was my limit haha. So another guy at the crag jumped up and cleaned it. Next time though... so doing it. The climbing is a ladder after this one really cool move where you have to reach up over a lip and grab this huge bucket and cut out your feet to pull yourself up... so cool.
Before we called it a day we went over a looked at Twinkie... (5.12a) probably the scariest thing I've ever seen. (It's Scotts dream climb) The beginning was so sketchy... if you bail before the first clip then you fall about 10 feet, hit a ledge and if you don't catch yourself there's another 15-20 drop to go!
The quick draws are left up on the climb..... it's sooo overhang if there wasn't you'd have to have crazy strength to do this monster.
So that's about it. Will be loading pictures soon for your amusement (if you've even read this long)
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Just uploaded some photos, only problem with two people is there's no one to take pictures ha [laugh]
(This post was edited by Climbing_Pink on Jun 26, 2008, 2:28 PM)
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notapplicable
Jun 25, 2008, 1:49 PM
Post #2 of 17
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
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Sounds like you guys had a fun, how were the temps? I try to make it out there once a year or so but work kept me busy through the good weather this time around. Might have to wait till the fall.
Oh yeah, pictures always make TR better, toss em up when you get em loaded.
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kostik
Jun 25, 2008, 2:04 PM
Post #3 of 17
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Registered: May 26, 2005
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Climbing_Pink wrote: After we went to the Zoo.... holy accent. It's like steep uphill for 20 minutes, I felt like an old woman once I got to the crag. It was getting dark so Scott jumped on a 5.12 (wish I could remember the names of these climbs) it was like 40-50 feet high but -man- the overhang on that thing was brutal. I'm sure those of you that are familiar with the Zoo now which one I'm talking about.
There are two 5.12a at the Zoo. The one on the right is Scar Tissue. Nice overhang with a boulder move before the chains. My favorite. Did the move in static. Hippocrite is on the left - big moves between several huecos. Dyno gumby's delight.
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camhead
Jun 25, 2008, 3:05 PM
Post #4 of 17
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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Twinkie is one of my all-time-favorites at the Red.
N_A, the temps are pretty hot this time of year, but chasing shade can still be do-able. How far would you be driving to get there?
Kostik, this weekend?
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jun 25, 2008, 3:06 PM
Post #5 of 17
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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Wow, you managed to hit quite a few different crags in one weekend!
(And also managed to mangle the names of at least half of the routes you mentioned, LOL)
Sounds like you had fun. Tofu and sweet potatoes on pizza... that's interesting! I think I'll pass that combo for now, but someday I'll run out of topping ideas of my own, and maybe then I'll try it.
Oh, the dreams of Miguel's pizza! Kalamata olives and artichokes... Hawaian...
My mouth is watering, and it isn't even time for lunch yet.
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kostik
Jun 25, 2008, 3:14 PM
Post #6 of 17
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Registered: May 26, 2005
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camhead wrote: Kostik, this weekend?
Yes.
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Climbing_Pink
Jun 25, 2008, 4:31 PM
Post #7 of 17
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Registered: Jun 10, 2008
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Earlier in the week before we went it said it was going to be 90 and really humid. It ended up being 75-85 max and really low humidity. Actually got on the chilly side when the sun went down....
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dreday3000
Jun 25, 2008, 5:56 PM
Post #9 of 17
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Registered: Jun 15, 2006
Posts: 566
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Twinkie is a great climb! I had to skip the last clip for the red point.
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whiskeybullets
Jun 25, 2008, 6:05 PM
Post #10 of 17
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Registered: Jun 23, 2005
Posts: 76
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Since you enjoyed your time in the Red so much, perhaps you would consider donating to the RRGCC. They're still working to pay of the PMRP (the shire, gallery, volunteer wall etc.). They had remarkable success with the Petzl RocTrip, but donations are still needed to secure access to these great crags.
The beta for Creature Feature is to not cut your feet, but to instead heel hook with the left foot. And perma-draws (as on Twinkie) are generally left up not to make leading easier, but rather so that the leader does not have to clean the route. If you're climbing Twinkie you don't want to top rope it, and you definately can't clean that climb on lower or rappel.
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getout87
Jun 26, 2008, 12:25 PM
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Registered: Dec 30, 2007
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notapplicable wrote: camhead wrote: N_A, the temps are pretty hot this time of year, but chasing shade can still be do-able. How far would you be driving to get there? Its a 9 hour haul for me man. The lines are worth it though. I dont care what anybody say's, the gear routes at the Red are some of the best around. That and its a "something for everyone" kinda place, Hard to talk some people into the climbing in NC. 
You ever need a partner for NC, let me know.
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Climbing_Pink
Jun 26, 2008, 2:00 PM
Post #13 of 17
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Registered: Jun 10, 2008
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It was Hippocrite that he jumped up on... really cool climb
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notapplicable
Jun 26, 2008, 4:24 PM
Post #14 of 17
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
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getout87 wrote: You ever need a partner for NC, let me know.
Will do, the fall will be here shortly and I'll be headed down.
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camhead
Jun 26, 2008, 4:33 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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neuroshock, we and clausti will probably be camped at Miguel's, and climbing one day at Midnight Surf. Not sure other than that
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dreday3000
Jun 26, 2008, 4:38 PM
Post #16 of 17
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Registered: Jun 15, 2006
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There are perma draws on Twinkie? Since when? I have had to clean that before. Its a bitch.
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neuroshock
Jun 26, 2008, 6:36 PM
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Registered: Nov 5, 2003
Posts: 680
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sounds good, maybe i'll see you guys. we'll probably be at Midnight Surf for Cell Block Six at some point this weekend and possibly give a few other routes there a first go. depends on how we feel and the weather.
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