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brianthew
Nov 3, 2002, 2:17 AM
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Hello all. I'm entering into my first comp, and had to choose a division. There are three, "novice," "intermediate," and "open." Now looking at the suggested gradings I find I fall into upper intermediate and low open. Now, I could easily take a place in intermediate and will most certainly get creamed in open (there are others in that category that consistently climb a full grade or two above me).
Now, I'm doing the open, I don't care much about a prize, and want to compete with the best, and it will motivate me to go at it harder. I'm curious what the rest of you would chose given a similar situation...easy win or certain loss? Be honest!
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histai
Nov 3, 2002, 2:47 AM
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I just went and watched a bouldering competition yesterday. They had a provision where anyone registered in a certain division who completed two problems from a higher division was automatically moved up. Is there anything like that in your comp? If so, register intermediate and climb as hard as you can--things will take care of themselves. If not, I'd go open. I need a humbling experience every once in a while to keep my head on straight.
BTW - Good luck.
[ This Message was edited by: histai on 2002-11-02 18:48 ]
[ This Message was edited by: histai on 2002-11-02 18:53 ]
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brianthew
Nov 3, 2002, 3:02 AM
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hmmm...I haven't heard of anything like that, but I wouldn't be surprised if there was such a policy.
I still want to go open...I'm not a fan of easy wins. To be specific (I'll use random grades here) it's like this:
Intermediate is 5.2-5.5. Open is 5.5 and above. I can onsight 5.4 and redpoint 5.6 after a try or two. (Again, these are just arbitrary ). I think I am way better suited for the open, although others can climb 5.7 (even 5.8!).
And thanks.
[ This Message was edited by: brianthew on 2002-11-02 19:03 ]
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pupjr
Nov 3, 2002, 3:04 AM
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i was in the exact same situation when i entered my first comp. and i don't regret for a second getting my butt spanked! the competetion was great, the friends were amazing. some guys who climbed better than me entered the one below me, and easily won it. they won some interesting prizes. i sure hope they felt good beating kids half their age, and ability. just go have fun, meet some fellow climbers, and most importantly climb hard. good luck
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kriso9tails
Nov 3, 2002, 3:11 AM
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The border line between intermediate and open is usually at onsighting 5.11+ (or possibly 11-). That's for local level comps though. I've competed in open at a few comps... I almost qualified for finals once too (I think I missed by ten points, or one hold and a clip if you will).
I'm doing a bouldering comp on the 23rd, and I could have entered rec. because I haven't really been climbing much and I suck, but I've placed first in rec. before so it's time to move on. I am going to be destroyed, but I hate sandbaggers, so why would I risk being one?
[ This Message was edited by: kriso9tails on 2002-11-02 19:14 ]
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xanx
Nov 3, 2002, 3:12 AM
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i could have gone intermediat probably in the last comp but went beginner anyway (took 3rd, should have done better) basically, if i had done much better than anyone else in my division, they would have bumped me up one (the intermediat woman did better than anyone in open, so she was moved up). but then again i knew the person running it and i knew they would bump me up if needed. but they wouldn't bump me down if i got kicked in intermediate, so better to go beginner. plus i climb with 2 ppl who boulder v10 and are sponsered, so i am humbled every day.
oh and plus im a wuss
mike
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kragkrawler
Nov 3, 2002, 4:08 AM
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If your in any competition ther can only ever be two outcomes
a WIN
-or-
a Disqualification
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orangekyak
Nov 3, 2002, 4:17 AM
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You seem to be very confident, which is cool. I think in my first comp I would go down a level because of the new situation of comp climbing. Good luck! Let us know how you do, and what hindsight shows you.
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petsfed
Nov 3, 2002, 5:34 AM
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ABS may not do that 2 problems and you're the next level thing. My buddy Brook Hayer (not Hager, despite the webpage) got first in the Novice category at a recent one in Breckenridge, and he won by like 2000 points or so. Depends on the comp. His results inspired me to sign up for the one here on Nov. 22nd. I will also do novice, but only for my first comp. After that I'll deal with reality and go to what it seems my skill level is.
[ This Message was edited by: petsfed on 2002-11-02 21:37 ]
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vaness
Nov 5, 2002, 4:30 PM
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i have done the easy win or certain loss thing. it was enter in intermediate and get 1st or enter advanced and rick getting last. i went in advanced and did well. i say its worth a try. if you dont do well hey your competeing against people better than you. thats what i say. they have probly been climbing a lot longer than you.
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kam_ill_eon
Nov 5, 2002, 9:04 PM
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Think how much more gratifying it will be if you place in the Open division knowing that you are competing with the "Best of the Best". It's like going to fight a 2nd grader if you're a senior in high school. No one will think you are awesome just because you win but if you were to beat up a college senior, oh how sweet it is. Just try your hardest. You may not win but at least you won't be cheating yourself. Good luck with the comp.
David
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dustinap
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Nov 5, 2002, 10:12 PM
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Might depend on your area also. Comps in my area have advanced doing V8-V10 and intermediate up to like V7.
[ This Message was edited by: dustinap on 2002-11-05 14:13 ]
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orestes1724
Nov 9, 2002, 2:10 AM
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i went into a competition and was told that if i did intermidiate i would do really good, but do okay in advanced. i did advanced and i thought i would get last but i ended up getting 3rd. i was satisfied with 3rd in a harder division then first in one that i knew i would do the best in. its more fun competing in harder divisions. i would do the same thing you did.
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baza_arrampicare
Nov 11, 2002, 5:52 AM
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In my first big competition i ever entered, i was faced with a similar situation. At the time i had a choice, an easy win entering in the beginning category...or getting my ass kicked in the intermediate. I chose the intermediate, because it's not about winning, it's about the experience. If you enter a competition just to win, what do you get out of it? A big ego? Sorry, but i think to many of us already have to big of ones.As it turned out, I made the top ten in the intermediate.
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baza_arrampicare
Dec 13, 2002, 9:10 AM
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well, do you want to win? challenge yourself or win. I'd say on this one, win and the next one, challenge yourself. goodluck!!!
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monkeyarm
Dec 13, 2002, 9:20 AM
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Depends on the comp. Last Year I was at a comp at my school where they only had beginger and advance, i signed up for beginger got bumped to advanced and actually made the finals.
Most comps will bump you with two climbs above the level yo usigned up for, although on occasion one climb if a couple elvels higher can get you switched to a higher level.
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