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jacob80304
Jun 29, 2008, 7:52 PM
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Advantages to each cord diameter?
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ja1484
Jun 29, 2008, 8:37 PM
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Sigh...do a search.
Honestly people, if you can't make up your minds on your own over which cord to use and why, don't use any cord at all.
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swaghole
Jun 29, 2008, 9:31 PM
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jacob80304 wrote: Advantages to each cord diameter?
There are so many factors to consider. What are you using it for?
What diatmeter of rope will you be prussiking? 6mm bites better on thinner ropes. 7mm is stronger and may be better for thicker ropes. Will it be for backing up your rappel? Below or above the belay device? For setting up pulley systems? For ascending ropes?
Lots of good info was previously posted - do a search.
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geezergecko
Jun 29, 2008, 9:43 PM
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I believe the rule of thumb is that the prusik diameter should be no larger than 2/3 the diameter of the rope.
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vegastradguy
Jul 1, 2008, 8:29 PM
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pfft- 5mm.
6mm works fine on the fat lines, but if you ever find yourself on a really skinny line, 5mm is better. plus its not as bulky. and its not like it has to hold a giant load.
max size for a prusik would be 6mm imho.
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morlebeke
Jul 2, 2008, 12:41 PM
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or rapping a single static line that's fairly new, even w/ a 5mm cord I wrapped an autoblock 5 times to bite well.
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epoch
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Jul 2, 2008, 1:04 PM
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Honestly, I don't see the value of carrying a slim piece of tat who's only purpose is to be used once in a great while. The cost/benefit ratio alone is insubstantial when compared to all else, but by having an individual piece on yourself that is dedicated to doing only one thing seems a bit excessive.
Most climbers (not exclusive to all climbers) carry a few slings with them. Prusik knots are good to know, but there are other knots that do just as well for rapel backup and rope ascention without the same fuss as a prusik that can be made from a sling that you might already have on you or in your possession.
I smile and laugh a bit inside when I see that climber with a biner on the back of their harness with two prusick loops on it. I am surprised that more methodolgy isn't being taught to climbers, instead of specific ways to do things. Knowing a method to do things vs. an absolute will allow you to carry less stuff. Granted, a prussik doesn't take up all that much room, but most people carry crap on them that works for multiple systems; all it takes is some fiddling or someone showing you the method in order to come to this realization.
To the OP. Take some time and see if you already have something that would work for a prusik/autoblock/kleimheist then evaluate if you need a specific item to do a particular task. If the situation ever arose know that you could use the same diameter rope of the one you plan on ascending for your friction knot. But for a generic prusik chord size, 5.5mm is the ideal size.
(This post was edited by epoch on Jul 2, 2008, 1:06 PM)
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tomcat
Jul 2, 2008, 1:27 PM
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I dislike carrying any specialized gear as well.If you carry a cordelette,you should already have one prussic right there.To ascend you will need two.
I keep my chalkbag on a piece of six mil.That is one prussic,and one in the bottom of my chalkbag.I don't carry a cordelette though.The chalkbag one is threaded through my Spatha knife,so I don't have to worry about dropping it while at a small stance.
Be aware that most of the newer slings that are the rage are not suitable for autoblocks or kleimheists because the material is too slippery.If you are going to go with sling solutions,you need nylon.
You also need to practice it before any situations arise.It's not hard to do,but there are a few tricks to it.
As far as size,5.5 or 6 mil bites a little better than 7,but seven looks a little more encouraging hanging in space.
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epoch
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Jul 2, 2008, 1:33 PM
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tomcat wrote: I dislike carrying any specialized gear as well.If you carry a cordelette,you should already have one prussic right there.To ascend you will need two. I keep my chalkbag on a piece of six mil.That is one prussic,and one in the bottom of my chalkbag.I don't carry a cordelette though.The chalkbag one is threaded through my Spatha knife,so I don't have to worry about dropping it while at a small stance. Be aware that most of the newer slings that are the rage are not suitable for autoblocks or kleimheists because the material is too slippery.If you are going to go with sling solutions,you need nylon. You also need to practice it before any situations arise.It's not hard to do,but there are a few tricks to it. As far as size,5.5 or 6 mil bites a little better than 7,but seven looks a little more encouraging hanging in space.
I should have been a bit more specific about the sling thing too. Dynema runners could be used, but they have a strong tendancy to slip and should be used with caution due to this.
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vegastradguy
Jul 2, 2008, 4:36 PM
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epoch wrote: tomcat wrote: I dislike carrying any specialized gear as well.If you carry a cordelette,you should already have one prussic right there.To ascend you will need two. I keep my chalkbag on a piece of six mil.That is one prussic,and one in the bottom of my chalkbag.I don't carry a cordelette though.The chalkbag one is threaded through my Spatha knife,so I don't have to worry about dropping it while at a small stance. Be aware that most of the newer slings that are the rage are not suitable for autoblocks or kleimheists because the material is too slippery.If you are going to go with sling solutions,you need nylon. You also need to practice it before any situations arise.It's not hard to do,but there are a few tricks to it. As far as size,5.5 or 6 mil bites a little better than 7,but seven looks a little more encouraging hanging in space. My chalkbag is on a piece of 11/16" tubular webbing. I should have been a bit more specific about the sling thing too. Dynema runners could be used, but they have a strong tendancy to slip and should be used with caution due to this.
hence the reason i carry a prusik on the back of my harness. i only use dyneema, i dont carry a cordlette, and i dont wear a chalkbag, so, i get to carry a chunk of 5mm tat for a prusik. I only carry one, though. i figure i can figure something else out if i need a second.
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majid_sabet
Jul 2, 2008, 5:36 PM
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jacob80304 wrote: Advantages to each cord diameter?
The diameter of a prusik cord should be at least 50% of the thickness of the rope its going to be used on and no more than 70%.
So on 11 mm rope, the min is 6 mm and no more than 8 mm
On 10 mm, the min is 5 mm and max is 7 mm
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