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chrisbursey
Apr 27, 2008, 5:52 PM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2008
Posts: 3
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Im considering moving to oregon in august, but I need to know how the climbing is there before I consider it. If anyone could give me an honest interpretation of how the climbing is there I would greatly apperciate it. I am mostly interested in single and multi-pitch trad routes. Also, how is the weather, and does it really rain all the time like everyone says? I would be moving to Eugene because thats where the school that my girl friend would be going to, but i told her if there wasnt good climbing I wouldnt go. I know its two hours from smith rock, but Ive only ever heard of this as a sport climbing destination. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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dbenton
Apr 28, 2008, 6:14 AM
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Registered: Sep 16, 2007
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Ive lived in Eugene for about 2 years now and I enjoy it. The climbing in the valley consists mainly of so-so small local sport and bouldering areas. However, Smith Rock is 2 hours and well worth the drive. It is known for both its sport climbing and its cracks my friend. It contains probably close to 500+ gear routes, not all worth doing but still there. If you are interested in trad you have the entire backside and the gorge. There is also Trout Creek is about 30 minutes from smith which was just in Climbing Magazine being compared to Indian Creek. There is no lacking of quality trad in this region Basically, there is climbing around, but all the really good stuff is about 2-3 hours drive. Day trips are difficult, but Central Oregon does contain some of the best climbing Ive done to date. However, it rains plenty in the winter, but only in Western Oregon. The high desert of Central stays pretty dry.
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milesenoell
Jun 21, 2008, 8:25 PM
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Registered: Sep 19, 2006
Posts: 1156
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I'm an Oregon native and can second what dbenton said. All I can add is that while it does "rain" a lot it's this misty weak rain most of the time that will dry fast if the rocks are exposed to the sun. I climb 9 to 10 months a year outside.
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theirishman
Jul 2, 2008, 9:14 PM
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Registered: Aug 17, 2005
Posts: 169
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i love eugene, and what they didnt mention is there is a small crack crag in the middle of town, its not much but its nice to go their and do some laps, work on anchors, figure out new techniques for stuff on actual rock
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