|
bbowers
Jul 4, 2008, 4:47 PM
Post #1 of 14
(10632 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 24
|
Not sure if this is the right place for this or not...I'll be moving to Albany from the Philly area. There's plenty of sport down here, but it seems like everything up by albany is trad. I'm not into trad yet, but I fear I may have to be once I move. Other than Rumney, which is kinda far from albany, is there any other close place for sport climbing, other than the Albany gym?
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
kampfwespe
Jul 14, 2008, 2:01 PM
Post #3 of 14
(10523 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2008
Posts: 7
|
bbowers wrote: Not sure if this is the right place for this or not...I'll be moving to Albany from the Philly area. There's plenty of sport down here, but it seems like everything up by albany is trad. I'm not into trad yet, but I fear I may have to be once I move. Other than Rumney, which is kinda far from albany, is there any other close place for sport climbing, other than the Albany gym?
I'm having similar concerns... I may have to learn trad climbing because I'm moving to Rochester for 6 months. Or drive long distances, or live at the gym.
|
|
|
|
|
apolobamba
Jul 14, 2008, 2:19 PM
Post #4 of 14
(10512 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2003
Posts: 337
|
You should have more concerns than that when you realize how far from any rock you are.
|
|
|
|
|
freedan
Jul 14, 2008, 3:13 PM
Post #5 of 14
(10496 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2006
Posts: 39
|
Get yourself a copy of the new comprehensive guide for the Adks (you too kampwebfse) http://www.adirondackrock.com/. The Adirondacks are a trad stronghold but sport exists too as documented in book. I might suggest Shanty, a bunch of new sport routes there (and plenty of trad). Nice setting, moderate approach with a wade across the Sacandaga R.
|
|
|
|
|
doze
Jul 22, 2008, 8:15 PM
Post #6 of 14
(10041 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 31, 2007
Posts: 51
|
Check out Poison Ivy wall at West point. It has >60 bolted routes
PM me if you're going there, I'm always looking for sport partners
|
|
|
|
|
spikeddem
Jul 26, 2008, 12:26 AM
Post #7 of 14
(9865 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319
|
apolobamba wrote: You should have more concerns than that when you realize how far from any rock you are.
Is this true? Isn't Albany NY within easy driving distance of both the Gunks and Adirondack?
I'm thinking of doing my masters in Albany, NY and this would be a plus! :)
|
|
|
|
|
apolobamba
Jul 26, 2008, 4:18 AM
Post #8 of 14
(9818 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2003
Posts: 337
|
Albany is somewhat close to the Gunks and ADK (my guess is ~1-2hrs) My comment was to "kampfwespe" who is moving to Rochester, NY.
|
|
|
|
|
sbaclimber
Jul 26, 2008, 3:38 PM
Post #9 of 14
(9784 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
|
Okay, here's the deal (to the best of my knowledge, which is admittedly a bit out of date...):
Sport climbing is a bit hard to come by in NY, let alone "close" to Albany.
Assuming "close" is within roughly an hour's drive, c4c's suggestion of Buck Mt is about it. Although Little Falls is about the same distance, and also has a *few* (read, not many) sport lines.
As pointed out by doze, the Poison Ivy Wall is probably your next best bet (further than an hour's drive, but one of the highest concentrations of bolted lines in NY).
Further north, there are additional bolted routes to be had, but they will take a bit longer to get to, and don't tend to be in high concentrations. e.g:
King Wall
Poke-O-Moonshine
Roger's Rock
Willsboro Bay
(all listed in the Dacks).
Although toproping is generally an option, you will find that learning a bit of trad will best serve you in NY. 
|
|
|
|
|
c4c
Jul 27, 2008, 12:00 PM
Post #10 of 14
(9732 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 18, 2006
Posts: 1279
|
Albany is a great location (Roch not-so-much) Buy the book ADK Rock by Lawyer and Haas. There is many more sport routes in the Daks than people think. There is a good gym in Schenectaty(however you spell that?).
|
|
|
|
|
healyje
Jul 27, 2008, 6:23 PM
Post #12 of 14
(9686 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4204
|
Learn to trad climb...
|
|
|
|
|
dudemanbu
Jul 29, 2008, 2:39 AM
Post #13 of 14
(9519 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2005
Posts: 941
|
snow mountain and chapel pond pass (sunshine wall) both have some sport and are about an hour north of albany.
|
|
|
|
|
c4c
Jul 31, 2008, 10:12 PM
Post #14 of 14
(9087 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 18, 2006
Posts: 1279
|
dudemanbu wrote: snow mountain and chapel pond pass (sunshine wall) both have some sport and are about an hour north of albany.
Neither one of those is an hour from Albany.
Buy the book. look for the X----X----X----X------------X--------------------------XX routes
|
|
|
|
|
|
) 
