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rtwilli4


Jul 3, 2008, 11:25 PM
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Pilot Mtn Question
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So I'm taking my g/f climbing soon. She's a first timer. I have been to Pilot once but it was a long time ago.

Where is the best place to go for easy bolted stuff? I remember a few easy climbs that I can top rope for her to learn how to belay and stuff but I also want to teach her how to lead belay. If I remember correctly, the Amphitheater has a few easy bolted routes with chain anchors.

Also, how out of date is The Climbers Guide to NC?

Thanks!


erica


Jul 4, 2008, 6:27 AM
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Re: [rtwilli4] Pilot Mtn Question [In reply to]
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There is an updated guide for Pilot Mt. that you can download and print off on the Carolina Climber's Coalition website (www.carolinaclimbers.org) It's laid out very well with nice photos and route descriptions.


r0cker


Jul 5, 2008, 6:52 AM
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Dude,

I would be cautious about showing her lead belay on the first day. Get her used to catching falls on top rope then move to lead.


pornstarr


Jul 5, 2008, 9:05 AM
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your guidebook will be fine.


or download the pilot guide if you wish.


rtwilli4


Jul 6, 2008, 11:24 PM
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we're gonna be there for a few days. I'm not gonna lead anything until I'm comfortable...

like I said, I know a few places that I can set up a top rope.

THanks


rtwilli4


Jul 6, 2008, 11:40 PM
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Also, does anyone know anywhere between Raleigh and Pilot that I could rent some shoes and a harness? I think one my harnesses may fit her but I know the shoes wont.


Carnage


Jul 7, 2008, 4:49 AM
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amphitheater has the best bolted stuff, but it is usually wet. the routes in the middle (i dont remember names, but from the 12b on the left until the 5.9) stay wet for like a week after it rains.


limeydave


Jul 7, 2008, 9:07 AM
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Carnage wrote:
amphitheater has the best bolted stuff, but it is usually wet. the routes in the middle (i dont remember names, but from the 12b on the left until the 5.9) stay wet for like a week after it rains.

Turkey Shoot and Mild Mannered Secretary and maybe one other...IIRC

If anyone has been up there since this weekends rain, lemme know if it's still wet. Cheers.


Carnage


Jul 7, 2008, 11:13 AM
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when they re-did the trail last year they changed the water flow a bit. crackin up sometimes dries up (for the most part) a little faster than the rest, but i know for sure mild mannered, turkey shoot, arms control, that shitty trad line that no one does, and the 5.9R in the reddish rock all stay wet for a while.


limeydave


Jul 7, 2008, 11:21 AM
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Carnage wrote:
when they re-did the trail last year they changed the water flow a bit. crackin up sometimes dries up (for the most part) a little faster than the rest, but i know for sure mild mannered, turkey shoot, arms control, that shitty trad line that no one does, and the 5.9R in the reddish rock all stay wet for a while.

Yeah, it was wet for months after they re-did the trail.
I wondered if they fixed it since then.

Make the climbing access easier and flood the climbing while you do it.
Doh.


rtwilli4


Jul 7, 2008, 11:27 PM
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isn't there a pretty good roof over the amphitheater? Why would it stay wet so long? Do you guys mean the base of the wall is wet/flooded?


limeydave


Jul 8, 2008, 4:04 AM
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rtwilli4 wrote:
isn't there a pretty good roof over the amphitheater? Why would it stay wet so long? Do you guys mean the base of the wall is wet/flooded?

The roof only keeps the direct rain off.

But the runoff from the hill has been soaking the face under the roof. It always did this a little bit in the winter, but since they changed the trail above a year or so back, the seepage is significantly worse.


justroberto


Jul 9, 2008, 10:02 PM
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Carnage wrote:
...that shitty trad line that no one does...
if that's the one i think you're talking about (5.4/5.5ish corner type thing, loose suitcase-sized boulders in dirt, and the single best protection is slinging some little root), it's one of two lines i've bailed off a single micro nut and felt perfectly fine doing so on...


Carnage


Jul 10, 2008, 7:57 AM
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justroberto wrote:
Carnage wrote:
...that shitty trad line that no one does...
if that's the one i think you're talking about (5.4/5.5ish corner type thing, loose suitcase-sized boulders in dirt, and the single best protection is slinging some little root), it's one of two lines i've bailed off a single micro nut and felt perfectly fine doing so on...

nice, i wanna do a 5.4/5.5 that someone has had to bail on.Crazy


justroberto


Jul 10, 2008, 8:00 PM
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Carnage wrote:
justroberto wrote:
Carnage wrote:
...that shitty trad line that no one does...
if that's the one i think you're talking about (5.4/5.5ish corner type thing, loose suitcase-sized boulders in dirt, and the single best protection is slinging some little root), it's one of two lines i've bailed off a single micro nut and felt perfectly fine doing so on...

nice, i wanna do a 5.4/5.5 that someone has had to bail on.Crazy
Well, it is a pretty sweet line...

Wink


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