I spent the weekend with my kids. Took them on a canoe/kayak trip. We did about 8 hours of paddling. Camped overnight on route. They were not too happy that we didn't have pillows or anything to sleep on between us and the hard ground. I told them they would appreciate their beds more after we roughed it. child abuse?

Well my day hasn't been good at all...




At 4:58 this afternoon, surrounded by his daughters and myself, my father-in-law took his last breaths.
Don't really know what else to write. It's a hard time for all of us right now.

Yeah, my partner got stung by a wasp while he was belaying me on the second pitch. It was fun climbing, but I think once is enough.

Finally made it out west this morning. Four days of straight driving. Chillaxing at a friends' house outside of SF for the day, then heading to the valley Sunday.

The drive was an asskicker, but I made it. I also got some funny looks in rest stops, firing up my stove.

So far, I'm having a blast and I haven't even harnessed up yet. Good to be travelling again.





So what if it's gh3y purple? The bed is working great.



Cheers,
Matt

Yeah the purple sheets are kind of ghey.
Maybe that is why sty wants you to come to utah....

Took C out to Cathedral on Saturday. This, after our wonderful day up at Camden. Went up a seldom climbed .5 and TRd a 180' sustained .9. There was nobody up there to bug us - Camden.

At Cathedral we got a 4:30AM start but did not leave town until 5:30 due to the AM errands being run. That and a 45 minute detour to her aunt's house to drop off her dog for the day put us at the base right around 8:30. Still, not ideal in my book, but early enough that we were the first on Thin Air. No one came up after us the entire time we were on route - strange for a holiday weekend Saturday.

After the complaints that I recieced from C about the rediculous amount of slab climbing we did a few weeks ago and her saying that it wasn't hard I snickered and knew, just knew, what would be good for her. I know how valuable experience on slab can be; it gives you excellent footwork - well, at the 5.7 and above grade it does, before then it's more of a paddle and run - but after doing Lost In The Sun - a 1100' route no harder than 5.5 - she was like "ok this is easy." So, what does any good mentor/boyfriend/climbing partner do? Get away from the slabs and get vertical.

Now, I know a few of us on here are aware of Thin Air. Jeff's nuts finally dropped on that climb and WMD dropped his sack. For me, it was a second ascent and I was fortunate to lead the entire thing. Now, I know it isn't reachy - but I was blamed for it being reachy. C felt the nerves on the first .6 crux. I went low to better protect it for her. I like the high way better. Anyway, she almost sketched out on the first crux. She cruised p2 and I bootied a webolette and a #4 Metolius at the p2 belay(p3 - but we combined 1 & 2).

On p3 she came to the realization that there was alot of air beneath her feet. The look she gave me when she finally pulled the last bulge wasn't pleasant. We took a few minute break and I shortroped her to the top - well, to the base of Aeriation.

Took a break and watched a TR solist get shut out on a .8. He was mumbling, cursing, and wearing a strange assorted mix of spandex, jean, and wetsuit. I thought nothing of it, but C was full of questions about the lunatic cursing up a climb.

Took a shot on Airation and was shut out at the crux. Rested and tried again, but tanked mEATBOMBED onto a blue Alien. My foot went between the rope and the wall and I caught a sling with my leg on the way down. You should see the bruise. Long live the Alien!!!

Walked down and enjoyed the copius amount of blueberries next to the road. Had a break at the car and went to do Funhouse. It was humid, I was tired. I slipped 10 feet off of the ground right before clipping the pin. Did the slab skid backwards down the dihedral to a solid 6.0 landing. Even rose the arms to celebrate. Anyway, climbed to the trees with a now bloody on top of the ropeburn and brusing left knee. I was done for the day. C couldn't make it up past the pin and it felt like all the holds were greasy.

Yesterday we went for a hike to a 26M waterfall. The water was nice and cold. I suspect that it rocks in the winter, and the approach isn't too bad either.

Well, that was my weekend, and finally getting C some exposure. Pulling any move when you get that first OH SHIT THIS IS HIGH feeling is rough. We've all been there.


cheers!

I'm digging the purple, man.

There are definitely better routes to do there.

Was the black alien still there?

He doesn't have a space heater, so forget it.

WMD is a space heater?

just a guess, worst case scenario she takes you up on your suggestion and sleeps cold.

You obviously missed the Dude's story.

Yes.

You obviously missed the Dude's story.

no, just blessed with a VERY short memory.

I hear herbal supplements can help.


If you use the right kind.

516 days 14hrs 30min.

but who's counting?

Art,

when are you going to stop pressing your pc++ against CI's blort and pass him?

Actually I am waiting for epock to pass me

Actually I am waiting for epock to pass me