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retro
Jun 7, 2008, 11:40 AM
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These things have been pushed back again, and won't hit our area until July, so I am told. Has anyone gotten their hands on one of these units, and if so...what did you think? They look sweet!!! 
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clc
Jun 7, 2008, 2:40 PM
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It looks like a copy of the Black Diamond guide.
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retro
Jun 7, 2008, 5:45 PM
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clc wrote: It looks like a copy of the Black Diamond guide.
A little bit, but they shaved half the weight of the ATC guide, ropes are supposed to run smoother as many folks have complained about ropes binding in the ATC's, and they actually made the hole on the bottom big enough to slide a carabiner through to use as leverage when you need to lower your second...not sure why BD didn't do this with their design, but it is a way better design than the Guide ATC (IMHO).
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vegastradguy
Jun 7, 2008, 6:26 PM
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is it half the weight? that seems doubtful. i'm sure its lighter, though.
ropes running smoother? in normal operation, i've never heard of any ropes binding in the guide. in autolock, i know fat ropes dont always work well, but the device really wasnt designed for 10.5 ropes, its really a 9-10mil device, even though its rated for bigger. i suspect the same is true for the reverso3- i've seen it, held it, and its really close to the guide in the slots. really close.
as for the release hole- BD did it specifically so you wouldnt try to hang the unit from the release hole. however, their new carabiner (the Oz), and any other little carabiner (Nano, etc), fits nicely into the release hole of the guide. although, i would say that i prefer using my nut tool anyway- its faster.
all that said, the reverso3 does one good thing- it addresses the sharpening of the current reversos. if for no other reason, i think this will sell the device. i think many reverso owners switched to the guide because of this (myself included), and so i think the reverso3 will get back quite a few.
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retro
Jun 7, 2008, 6:52 PM
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I currently use the ATC Guide too. There is a whole thread on NEClimbs about the ATC binding up...I have never experienced this with mine, but I was surprised to see how many have had problems.
The nut tool is a great suggestion! Never thought of that. I first looped a small piece of cord and sent it through the hole, knotted one end and then another on the other side of the hole to keep it from falling out...and (as I thought it might) it just became a big PITA as it snagged on anything it could. Needless to say, It no longer sports the teather!!!
I read this somewhere?!?!
"Also, although I would hesitate to call it a true issue for anyone but those really concerned about weight, the device is heavy for a tube. In fact it is the heaviest on the market by quite a bit. Weighing in at a full 21g heavier than the Reverso and 42g heavier than the B-52, it’s a clunker. That said, I never noticed the weight once I had it clipped to me, and it still weighs less than half a Gri-Gri."
this review Vegastradguy...sold me on the ATC guide and have been using it ever since (great and thorough review I thought)!!!
So...no, the Reverso is not quite half the weight...but the ATC guide weighs in at 102 grams, while the reverso3 a slight 72g...not bad!?!?
I too switched teams (Petzl to BD) when I started to choose my reverso for slicing pepperoni over my jack knife. That was a real issue with those things, but it looks like Petzl has figured that one out with the "3".
Just curious how people seemed to like them. Not disenchanted with my Guide by any means, but always looking for lighter weight, smoother feeds, and ease of use. Maybe the Reverso 3 answers the call?!?
(This post was edited by retro on Jun 7, 2008, 6:57 PM)
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vegastradguy
Jun 7, 2008, 6:58 PM
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its quite possible....time will tell.
lol, yeah, i wont deny the guide is heavy for a tube, but i've grown so used to it now, i dont even notice it anymore.
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clc
Jun 8, 2008, 1:35 AM
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here is the petzl site with a 90mb video.
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retro
Jun 8, 2008, 10:34 AM
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clc wrote: here is the petzl site with a 90mb video.
Whoops! The link didn't download, but I have been to the site to check the video out. Thanks!
http://en.petzl.com/petzl/SportProduits?Produit=653#
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shockabuku
Jun 8, 2008, 3:44 PM
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retro
Jun 8, 2008, 9:15 PM
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Thanks Shockabuku!
Haven't figured out how to make the links live????
Chris
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superbum
Jul 6, 2008, 12:12 AM
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Are these available yet or what!?!?!
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dylan1
Jul 6, 2008, 12:35 AM
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They are available, I picked one up on thursday at the ems store. Looks great, just wish I was not injured so I could try it out.....
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retro
Jul 6, 2008, 1:15 AM
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I'm getting one this week!
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dylan1
Jul 6, 2008, 1:23 AM
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Let us know how you like it...I am out of action for a while, can't try the one I bought, looks sweet though.
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coolcat83
Jul 6, 2008, 1:30 AM
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looks almost the same to me except that the guide has more material, I weigh 205 so i think i'll stick with more heat dissipating metal, i can't imagine the difference in grams making a difference, if it's hat big an issue maybe you should pee before you climb to compensate.
(This post was edited by coolcat83 on Jul 6, 2008, 1:31 AM)
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scenque
Jul 7, 2008, 6:46 PM
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coolcat83 wrote: looks almost the same to me except that the guide has more material, I weigh 205 so i think i'll stick with more heat dissipating metal, i can't imagine the difference in grams making a difference, if it's hat big an issue maybe you should pee before you climb to compensate.
I took the new Reverso up to Tuolumne this weekend and used it on a few long climbs. It works very similar to the ATC Guide, except that it hangs 90 degrees rotated from how the ATC Guide hangs and it is slightly easier to pay out slack because of the larger opening on the front of the device.
I found that I prefer the new Reverso over the Guide, but none of the advantages are that big.
Because it hangs "sideways" rather than "upright", the rope feeds a little better when belaying from the anchor. With the Guide, I occasionally ran into situations where I had to be careful to keep the rope running through the device from rubbing against my clove hitch because of the orientation of the Guide.
I also found that the Reverso is little easier to pull rope through in autoblock mode, probably because the device isn't as deep as the Guide, so the rope path is straighter. Not a big deal on short climbs, but when you're leading every pitch for 3 consecutive days, your back muscles definitely notice; I once developed a really painful knot in my back from the repetitive yarding motion of belaying off the anchor.
As far as rappelling goes, I really didn't notice any difference between the new Reverso and the ATC Guide, though I only made a couple short single-rope raps as part of the Daff Dome descent.
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rock_ranger
Jul 7, 2008, 6:53 PM
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Never used the guide, but I've used the reverso 3 for a few weeks cragging and love it. Works great with my 9.1 ropes as well as the bigger stuff. Although the bigger ropes (10.6 and above) take some force to get through the opening. Feeds nicely and raps as well as other ATC's i've used. Planning on taking it to Seneca in a few weeks to see how it does with multi-pitch.
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irregularpanda
Jul 7, 2008, 7:25 PM
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retro wrote: and they actually made the hole on the bottom big enough to slide a carabiner through to use as leverage when you need to lower your second....
Just so y'all know, there's an easy way to release friction on these devices without using the "easy to use" hole that Petzl and BD put on them.
Clip a prussik into the belay biner, run it through a piece above the master point to create 2:1 advantage, and then pull. It changes the angle, and its way faster and easier to do than using some 4 mil cord or what have you.
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stevenosloan
Jul 7, 2008, 7:52 PM
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In reply to: It works very similar to the ATC Guide, except that it hangs 90 degrees rotated from how the ATC Guide hangs and it is slightly easier to pay out slack because of the larger opening on the front of the device.
Nice that it works better like this, I'm pretty sure they were able to remove a forging step in the manufacture b/c of that.
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acorneau
Jul 7, 2008, 8:20 PM
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stevenosloan wrote: Nice that it works better like this, I'm pretty sure they were able to remove a forging step in the manufacture b/c of that.
From the look of the R3 and the Guide these things are probably cast, not forged.
(Yes, I've got too much time on my hands today!)
(This post was edited by acorneau on Jul 7, 2008, 8:21 PM)
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stevenosloan
Jul 7, 2008, 9:12 PM
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acorneau wrote: stevenosloan wrote: Nice that it works better like this, I'm pretty sure they were able to remove a forging step in the manufacture b/c of that. From the look of the R3 and the Guide these things are probably cast, not forged. (Yes, I've got too much time on my hands today!)
yah, you're probably right...I'll just say its easier to manufacture [no undercuts] and keep ppl happy w/ vagueness. or I guess if its sand cast it wouldn't matter either way....hmmm
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gunkiemike
Jul 7, 2008, 11:33 PM
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acorneau wrote: stevenosloan wrote: Nice that it works better like this, I'm pretty sure they were able to remove a forging step in the manufacture b/c of that. From the look of the R3 and the Guide these things are probably cast, not forged. (Yes, I've got too much time on my hands today!)
The Petzl site says it's hot forged.
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ahimsa
Jul 8, 2008, 12:05 AM
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I read on the website that it works for 8 and 9 mill ropes but thought i had heard of some people using it with larger 10 mill ropes. Any one know from experience wether it will work on my 10.4 or not?!?
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