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boltakrak
Nov 4, 2002, 12:33 AM
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Registered: Nov 1, 2002
Posts: 40
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have any of you guys ever taken a fall on a bolt that ripped out. because it was over torqued, poorly placed, rusty, etc..?
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the_elk
Nov 4, 2002, 1:01 AM
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Registered: Jul 24, 2002
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Nope, But every time I fall on this one particular bolt on a climb I'm working, I close my eyes for fear of it popping right out. Lucky there's a good piece of gear about 3/4 of a meter earlier. Oh, and I have seen a very rusty looking and bent upwards bolt on a route out at Araps... that freaked me out a bit. Elk
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sparky
Nov 4, 2002, 2:08 AM
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Registered: May 31, 2002
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i've heard stories and seen a few of the blots that have ripped but never had one rip on me, those 1/4 inch rusted pieces of crap make you think twice about clipping them afetr you've seen what they look like after ripping out!
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djmicro
Nov 4, 2002, 12:34 PM
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Registered: Oct 14, 2002
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I have climbed on very rusted chain anchors, but never taken a fall on one of those. In Namibia there is a crag called Spitskoppen wich have a few half ripped bolts (on 21,5 meter runouts)
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phil_nev
Nov 8, 2002, 2:35 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2001
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elk what are u workin that has a didgy bolt, is it thomas???
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kam_ill_eon
Nov 8, 2002, 3:31 PM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2001
Posts: 168
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I guess it's a bad sign when you can unscrew a bolt with your bare hands and very little pressure huh? I've done it twice!!
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spydermonkey
Nov 9, 2002, 6:12 PM
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Registered: Jul 21, 2002
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camhead
Nov 9, 2002, 6:17 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
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never fallen on a bad bolt, but there is one sandstone trad route on which one of the anchor bolts is ultra loose. It is just being held in by sheer strength alone, it could pull out by hand easily. The other anchor is way good, though. I always just clip in, pray, and then lower.
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