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laanguiano


Jul 11, 2008, 1:12 AM
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Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel
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When rappelling why do you tie the backup knot on the leg loop? Is it only because the rappel device is on your belay loop?

If you are extending the rappel device should you instead tie it on your belay loop or should you still use the leg loop?


zeke_sf


Jul 11, 2008, 1:18 AM
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Re: [laanguiano] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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What you are talking about is only one way of backing up a rappel.

You tie it on your leg loop because it is not expected to hold even your weight, just to apply enough force to act as a surrogate for your brake hand. Also, it is tied on your leg loops and your rappel device is extended from your harness so that the prussic knot on the rope doesn't get jammed up into the rappel device, which could be a problem.


napoleon_in_rags


Jul 11, 2008, 1:26 AM
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Re: [laanguiano] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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A belay device stops the rope from feeding through by the friction created by the bend in the rope going over the device. A sharper bend creates more friction. All an auto block does is to create an acute angle in the bend, locking the belay device. Therefore the lower the autoblock is, the better. Also, because the autoblock is not actually supporting your weight, it doesn't matter that it is not on a part of the harness that is not designed to support bodyweight. So the legloop, because it is the lowest part of the harness, is the most effective place to place an autoblock.

I don't extend out my rap device. I don't like it so I am probably the wrong person to answer the second part of your question. However, I personally like to keep as few things on my belay loop as possible.


sonso45


Jul 11, 2008, 1:29 AM
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Re: [napoleon_in_rags] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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If you extend your rap device, do not use the leg loop for this purpose. It is ok, as just stated, to use the leg loop for the autoblock. I use it a lot, it works well.


Partner epoch
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Jul 11, 2008, 11:21 AM
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Re: [napoleon_in_rags] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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napoleon_in_rags wrote:
..., it doesn't matter that it is not on a part of the harness that is not designed to support bodyweight. So the legloop, because it is the lowest part of the harness, is the most effective place to place an autoblock. ...

Wait.

You're saying that the leg loop is not load bearing?

I think you need to re-check your harness, mister.


Carnage


Jul 11, 2008, 12:37 PM
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Re: [epoch] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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leg loop is fully (or almost) rated. you could take a fall onto you leg loop and you'd just have to worry about your fucked up body, not the loop breaking. so if something were to happen to you belay loop (like if you had it cut 90% of the way through before you started the rapel) and the belay loop were to fail, the backup should catch and keep you on the rope.

on a more humorous note: i once saw a noob teaching another noob how to use a backup for a rappel. she said "watch the way the knot get jammed in the atc when it hits it so you stop" so the kid tried it, and you could tell by the look on his face that he knew that it didnt stop shit when it hit the atc. made me lol a little.


tharlow


Jul 11, 2008, 2:09 PM
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Re: [laanguiano] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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I find it easier to extend my ATC with a single length runner doubled over and connect the autoblock to my belay loop. Keeps things a little higher where I can reach them easier, especially on long overhanging rappels.


(This post was edited by tharlow on Jul 11, 2008, 2:10 PM)


Partner rgold


Jul 11, 2008, 2:40 PM
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Re: [tharlow] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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There are reasons for putting the backup on the leg loop as opposed to extending the device and putting the backup on the belay loop. They have to do with which hand controls the backup, and what you do depends on why you think you are using a backup.

1. If the backup is on the leg loop, then it is controlled by the braking hand. If anything causes you to let go with the braking hand, the backup will lock off the rappel.

2. If the backup is on the belay loop with the device extended above the belay loop, then the backup is controlled by the non-braking hand. If something causes you to let go of the braking hand, the backup will not function unless the other hand releases it. In this regard, it is worth remembering that several tests (performed on backups situated above the device) have shown that even experienced climbers who know that an emergency is going to be simulated cannot reliably be expected to release the hand controlling the backup---the instinctive tendency to grip the rope is way too strong. So it is possible to imagine situations in which Method 1 would work but method 2 would not.

Note that in either method, if the backup is situated in a way that allows it to be drawn up to the device, then the backup will not work. This problem is particularly acute when the backup is on the leg loop and the device is not extended. Raising the leg anchoring the backup knot can be enough to release the backup, and this is thought to have resulted in at least one fatality.


swaghole


Jul 11, 2008, 2:55 PM
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Re: [napoleon_in_rags] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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napoleon_in_rags wrote:
A belay device stops the rope from feeding through by the friction created by the bend in the rope going over the device. A sharper bend creates more friction. All an auto block does is to create an acute angle in the bend, locking the belay device. Therefore the lower the autoblock is, the better. Also, because the autoblock is not actually supporting your weight, it doesn't matter that it is not on a part of the harness that is not designed to support bodyweight. So the legloop, because it is the lowest part of the harness, is the most effective place to place an autoblock.

I don't extend out my rap device. I don't like it so I am probably the wrong person to answer the second part of your question. However, I personally like to keep as few things on my belay loop as possible.


I see a problem with using the leg loop to tie in your back up. If you screw up setting up your belay device when rapelling (i.e. not clipping the ropes with the locking biner), you can end up hanging upside down in your harness. The leg loop is much lower on your body's centre of gravity so you will naturally hand upside down. You might even smack the back of your head on the rock when you invert.

At this point, your leg loop will be holding your full body weight. As you noted, the leg loop is not designed as strong as the belay loop. Your harness should still hold, but it's probably not the best place to hand from.

You should also consider using the prussik instead of the autoblock. I've read that the auto block can slip at less then 300 lbs. Considering the above scenario (backup holding all the weight), that's cutting it way to close. The prussik will hold a much greate load (~1500).

I prefer to extend the belay device when rappelling using an 8.1 dynamic cow tail (with a alpine butterfly in the middle and an 8 at the end) It's tied to the 2 tie in points on the harness. I use the belay loop for the backup (below the belay device) with a 3-wrap prussik of 6 or 7 mm cord. I beleive this is a safer method.


(This post was edited by swaghole on Jul 11, 2008, 3:27 PM)


zeke_sf


Jul 11, 2008, 3:11 PM
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Re: [epoch] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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epoch wrote:
napoleon_in_rags wrote:
..., it doesn't matter that it is not on a part of the harness that is not designed to support bodyweight. So the legloop, because it is the lowest part of the harness, is the most effective place to place an autoblock. ...

Wait.

You're saying that the leg loop is not load bearing?

I think you need to re-check your harness, mister.

Oh, it definitely supports body weight, but I know I wouldn't want to be hanging solely from my leg loop.


stickyfingerz


Jul 11, 2008, 3:18 PM
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Re: [swaghole] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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Check out this video from Sterling: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYbWPbnFCQs

This is my favorite way to set up a rappel backup, although I use an autoblock and a regular sling rather than one of those PAS/POS things.


zeke_sf


Jul 11, 2008, 3:24 PM
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Re: [swaghole] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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swaghole wrote:
I see a problem with using the leg loop to tie in your back up. If you screw up setting up your belay device when rapelling (i.e. not clipping the ropes with the locking biner), you can end up hanging upside down in your harness. The leg loop is much lower on your body's centre of gravity so you will naturally hand upside down. You might even smack the back of your head on the rock when you invert.

Let's be honest and admit that a lot (most?) people don't back up their rappels most of the time. To consider the backup a contingency against falling in case of rappel device failure -- which would then argue where the backup should be situated, as you have done -- is adding a function to it I don't think is appropriate. If you have the time to rig a backup, you certainly have the time to check and re-check the threading through your rappel device; an important habit to ingrain from the beginning stages of climbing.


hiyapokey


Jul 11, 2008, 4:41 PM
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Re: [zeke_sf] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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My understanding of the autoblock system is that it is there not for a belay device failure but rather to save a climber that has become incapacitated due to say rock fall on the head or broken arm etc. If you set up an autoblock correctly on the free end side of the belay device it will hold the rope in a braking position, thus the rope in your belay device is holding you up not the accessory cord your using for your autoblock.


swaghole


Jul 11, 2008, 4:44 PM
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Re: [stickyfingerz] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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stickyfingerz wrote:
Check out this video from Sterling: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYbWPbnFCQs

This is my favorite way to set up a rappel backup, although I use an autoblock and a regular sling rather than one of those PAS/POS things.

Very close to what the Petzl website shows. The video is pretty good, if you can stand the white spandex and white gloved. The rappel stuff is about 3/4 way in.
http://en.petzl.com/.../REVERSO/reverso.htm


swaghole


Jul 11, 2008, 4:56 PM
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Re: [zeke_sf] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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zeke_sf wrote:
swaghole wrote:
I see a problem with using the leg loop to tie in your back up. If you screw up setting up your belay device when rapelling (i.e. not clipping the ropes with the locking biner), you can end up hanging upside down in your harness. The leg loop is much lower on your body's centre of gravity so you will naturally hand upside down. You might even smack the back of your head on the rock when you invert.

Let's be honest and admit that a lot (most?) people don't back up their rappels most of the time. To consider the backup a contingency against falling in case of rappel device failure -- which would then argue where the backup should be situated, as you have done -- is adding a function to it I don't think is appropriate. If you have the time to rig a backup, you certainly have the time to check and re-check the threading through your rappel device; an important habit to ingrain from the beginning stages of climbing.

"Department of redundency department. How can we help?"

I like your thoughts on ingraining the correct methods (rappel or wathever else) right at the beginning for newbies.

Personally, i always use a backup. Just because you check and re-check your system isn't a garantee you didn't frakc something up. You may as well use the best backup method you know and are confortable with. For me, it's the extended belay on my cow tail with a prussik below it and tied to my belay loop.


zeke_sf


Jul 11, 2008, 5:05 PM
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Re: [swaghole] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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swaghole wrote:
zeke_sf wrote:
swaghole wrote:
I see a problem with using the leg loop to tie in your back up. If you screw up setting up your belay device when rapelling (i.e. not clipping the ropes with the locking biner), you can end up hanging upside down in your harness. The leg loop is much lower on your body's centre of gravity so you will naturally hand upside down. You might even smack the back of your head on the rock when you invert.

Let's be honest and admit that a lot (most?) people don't back up their rappels most of the time. To consider the backup a contingency against falling in case of rappel device failure -- which would then argue where the backup should be situated, as you have done -- is adding a function to it I don't think is appropriate. If you have the time to rig a backup, you certainly have the time to check and re-check the threading through your rappel device; an important habit to ingrain from the beginning stages of climbing.

"Department of redundency department. How can we help?"

I like your thoughts on ingraining the correct methods (rappel or wathever else) right at the beginning for newbies.

Personally, i always use a backup. Just because you check and re-check your system isn't a garantee you didn't frakc something up. You may as well use the best backup method you know and are confortable with. For me, it's the extended belay on my cow tail with a prussik below it and tied to my belay loop.

Fair enough. My thoughts are if we go down that road (e.g. using the prussic for safeguarding against not setting up the rappel correctly 100% of the time), then we should probably backup our belays too.


swaghole


Jul 11, 2008, 5:38 PM
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Re: [zeke_sf] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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zeke_sf wrote:
Fair enough. My thoughts are if we go down that road (e.g. using the prussic for safeguarding against not setting up the rappel correctly 100% of the time), then we should probably backup our belays too.

Whatever. You can decide where you want to build redundancy in your systems when you climb.


coolcat83


Jul 11, 2008, 6:43 PM
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Re: [zeke_sf] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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zeke_sf wrote:
swaghole wrote:
I see a problem with using the leg loop to tie in your back up. If you screw up setting up your belay device when rapelling (i.e. not clipping the ropes with the locking biner), you can end up hanging upside down in your harness. The leg loop is much lower on your body's centre of gravity so you will naturally hand upside down. You might even smack the back of your head on the rock when you invert.

Let's be honest and admit that a lot (most?) people don't back up their rappels most of the time. To consider the backup a contingency against falling in case of rappel device failure -- which would then argue where the backup should be situated, as you have done -- is adding a function to it I don't think is appropriate. If you have the time to rig a backup, you certainly have the time to check and re-check the threading through your rappel device; an important habit to ingrain from the beginning stages of climbing.

I back up my rap every time UNLESS there is agood reason it might be unsafe. if i'm first down i have it on, if i'm second and i get a firemans i may leave it off, but even that is rare and only in certain cases. why on the leg loop? well it's convenient and that way the backup is controlled with my brake hand, i generally don't extend the device as i've had it hang up over edges ect, so that's situational, I just spent some time hanging from a tree on my yard fine tuning the length of my backup loop, could it hit the device and fail, sure, but i'd have to be bent in half at that point.
With rappelling a little paranoia is healthy imo.


zeke_sf


Jul 11, 2008, 7:00 PM
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Re: [coolcat83] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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coolcat83 wrote:
zeke_sf wrote:
swaghole wrote:
I see a problem with using the leg loop to tie in your back up. If you screw up setting up your belay device when rapelling (i.e. not clipping the ropes with the locking biner), you can end up hanging upside down in your harness. The leg loop is much lower on your body's centre of gravity so you will naturally hand upside down. You might even smack the back of your head on the rock when you invert.

Let's be honest and admit that a lot (most?) people don't back up their rappels most of the time. To consider the backup a contingency against falling in case of rappel device failure -- which would then argue where the backup should be situated, as you have done -- is adding a function to it I don't think is appropriate. If you have the time to rig a backup, you certainly have the time to check and re-check the threading through your rappel device; an important habit to ingrain from the beginning stages of climbing.

I back up my rap every time UNLESS there is agood reason it might be unsafe. if i'm first down i have it on, if i'm second and i get a firemans i may leave it off, but even that is rare and only in certain cases. why on the leg loop? well it's convenient and that way the backup is controlled with my brake hand, i generally don't extend the device as i've had it hang up over edges ect, so that's situational, I just spent some time hanging from a tree on my yard fine tuning the length of my backup loop, could it hit the device and fail, sure, but i'd have to be bent in half at that point.
With rappelling a little paranoia is healthy imo.

Diff'rent strokes. I can see the point of backing it up every time, just like wearing a helmet every time. My disagreement is not whether to back up your rappel, it's why you back up your rappel. As you stated, there are also situational reasons, pro and con. I think the point is to decide your level of comfort, the protocol you wish to follow, etc.. and, like you said, to test out these options before you are out there.

BTW, I've had a situation with a firemen's I'm not sure was completely safe (in fact, it may have been very dangerous). I'd get into it more, but it would take a while to explain. I'll just say, getting a firemen's belay while cleaning your gear on rap may have some drawbacks.


hafilax


Jul 11, 2008, 7:13 PM
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Because of the reasoning outlined by rgold, when using a friction knot below the device I like the device to be extended a little bit to prevent the knot from hitting it. I also always attach it to a leg loop and typically use a klemheist.

Sometimes the friction knot above the device is more convenient since it is easier to tension the rappel like when leaving a hanging belay for example.

I only use a rappel friction backup if I think there is the possibility of having to stop in the middle of the rappel for any reason and there isn't a person at the bottom to give a fireman's belay. I also choose to put the knot above or below the device depending on the situation.

To check my rappel setup I always weight the rappel before detaching from the anchor. The redundancy is in the anchor and not in the rappel setup.

There's a Catch 22 with counting on a rappel backup in case you are incapacitated because of Harness Hang Syndrome. Your partner will have roughly 15 minutes to get you down before HHS causes major problems in your body.

IMO it is better to use a fireman's belay whenever possible over backing up the rappel with a friction knot. This gives your partner control over your rappel should you become incapacitated or injured.


coolcat83


Jul 11, 2008, 7:14 PM
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Re: [zeke_sf] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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zeke_sf wrote:
coolcat83 wrote:
zeke_sf wrote:
swaghole wrote:
I see a problem with using the leg loop to tie in your back up. If you screw up setting up your belay device when rapelling (i.e. not clipping the ropes with the locking biner), you can end up hanging upside down in your harness. The leg loop is much lower on your body's centre of gravity so you will naturally hand upside down. You might even smack the back of your head on the rock when you invert.

Let's be honest and admit that a lot (most?) people don't back up their rappels most of the time. To consider the backup a contingency against falling in case of rappel device failure -- which would then argue where the backup should be situated, as you have done -- is adding a function to it I don't think is appropriate. If you have the time to rig a backup, you certainly have the time to check and re-check the threading through your rappel device; an important habit to ingrain from the beginning stages of climbing.

I back up my rap every time UNLESS there is agood reason it might be unsafe. if i'm first down i have it on, if i'm second and i get a firemans i may leave it off, but even that is rare and only in certain cases. why on the leg loop? well it's convenient and that way the backup is controlled with my brake hand, i generally don't extend the device as i've had it hang up over edges ect, so that's situational, I just spent some time hanging from a tree on my yard fine tuning the length of my backup loop, could it hit the device and fail, sure, but i'd have to be bent in half at that point.
With rappelling a little paranoia is healthy imo.

Diff'rent strokes. I can see the point of backing it up every time, just like wearing a helmet every time. My disagreement is not whether to back up your rappel, it's why you back up your rappel. As you stated, there are also situational reasons, pro and con. I think the point is to decide your level of comfort, the protocol you wish to follow, etc.. and, like you said, to test out these options before you are out there.

BTW, I've had a situation with a firemen's I'm not sure was completely safe (in fact, it may have been very dangerous). I'd get into it more, but it would take a while to explain. I'll just say, getting a firemen's belay while cleaning your gear on rap may have some drawbacks.

if i'm cleaning something on rap i wouldn't rely on anyone else to hold me, in that case my own device and backup are what i'm relying on, i've even tied off my atc at times(with the backup still on) where i was attending to something. firemans' sketch me out, even with someone i know knows what they are doing. I've seen some people that start with the ropes about chest height with a death grip on the m just in case and by the time the rap is half done they are crouching over because of rope stretch...what are they going to do? if i loose control? dig a hole in the ground and hop in to pull the ropes?


zeke_sf


Jul 11, 2008, 7:28 PM
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Re: [coolcat83] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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coolcat83 wrote:
if i'm cleaning something on rap i wouldn't rely on anyone else to hold me, in that case my own device and backup are what i'm relying on, i've even tied off my atc at times(with the backup still on) where i was attending to something. firemans' sketch me out, even with someone i know knows what they are doing.

Well, the fireman's belay was applied without my knowledge. Basically, it forced a sharp "v" between my device with one strand running through the pro and the other strand going straight down. When I figured out why this was happening I told the guy to let go of the damn rope (maybe in harsher, more anxious terms). My concern is, what's going to happen when you hold a fireman's that causes a sharp "v" in the rope from your device? The rappel point was a traverse from the top of the route, if that helps you envision what I'm talking about. Whatever the case, I don't think it's a proper use of the fireman's.

Rappels are definitely not something to take lightly.


acorneau


Jul 12, 2008, 12:06 AM
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Re: [coolcat83] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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coolcat83 wrote:
I've seen some people that start with the ropes about chest height with a death grip on them just in case and by the time the rap is half done they are crouching over because of rope stretch...what are they going to do if i loose control? dig a hole in the ground and hop in to pull the ropes?

No, you just keep your hands on the rope at a comfortable position. You don't need your hands on the ends of the rope to give an effective fireman's belay!?!
Crazy


sky7high


Jul 12, 2008, 1:28 AM
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Registered: Feb 15, 2006
Posts: 478

Re: [coolcat83] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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coolcat83 wrote:
if i'm cleaning something on rap i wouldn't rely on anyone else to hold me, in that case my own device and backup are what i'm relying on, i've even tied off my atc at times(with the backup still on) where i was attending to something. firemans' sketch me out, even with someone i know knows what they are doing. I've seen some people that start with the ropes about chest height with a death grip on the m just in case and by the time the rap is half done they are crouching over because of rope stretch...what are they going to do? if i loose control? dig a hole in the ground and hop in to pull the ropes?

^WTF??^

Extending the device has a few advantages as well, such as not getting your clothes/hair/finger/whatever sucked into the atc, and you can put the backup in the belay loop, which I think is safer in case you need to weigh the backup only. There's something else that the video above mentioned that I hadn't thought about: the fact that you can change the break hand at will, which, come think of it, has been useful a number of times.
About what rgold mentioned, I can hold the knot with any hand, so I've never had any problems with that.
That said, I very rarely use a backup. (flame on!)


chris


Jul 12, 2008, 4:57 AM
Post #25 of 35 (7173 views)
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Registered: Feb 4, 2003
Posts: 97

Re: [sky7high] Why Backup Knot on Leg Loop Rappel [In reply to]
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I noticed that if I had to take the time to reig/prepare a sling or cord for my autoblock back-up, I was less likely to use one at all. So I started to keep a cord girth-hitched to my leg loop and tucked away. When I start rappels, I simply add a locking carabiner to the leg loop and voila! - my autoblock is ready.
I actually like using an autoblock to allow me to go hands free to manage the rope - assuming I'm the first one to rappel. If I'm not the first to rappel, I usually ask my partner to provide a fireman's belay instead.

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