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tanner
Oct 31, 2002, 1:45 AM
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I climb granite, I think its the best and safest to protect. What type of rock do you yrust the most?
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rocknalaska
Oct 31, 2002, 2:02 AM
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I've climbed on chossy granite, sandstone and limestone where I wouldn't trust a piece at all. I've also climbed on bulletproof granite, sandstone, and limestone where I have no problems trusting the placement. I would say it depend on each area.
Locally I would trust granite more.
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coclimber26
Oct 31, 2002, 3:06 AM
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Granite seems to hold pro better but the local sandstone/quartzite is very solid too...It's a toss-up.
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jhwnewengland
Oct 31, 2002, 3:40 AM
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Second that coclimber, both the granite here in NH and the quartzite/sandstone in the Gunks are bomber. Haven't climbed Limestone or regular sandstone though.
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kman
Oct 31, 2002, 7:36 AM
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good ol' Squamish granite.
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stevematthys
Oct 31, 2002, 2:38 PM
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i like the sandstone of eldorado canyon.
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mshore
Oct 31, 2002, 2:56 PM
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Personaly - I like placing rurps in zion sandstone. Your all gonna die!
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climblouisiana
Oct 31, 2002, 3:26 PM
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granite is good!
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clymber
Oct 31, 2002, 4:07 PM
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The Gunks since it help my first trad fall and i didnt hit the ground so it my solid rock
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grayhghost
Oct 31, 2002, 4:10 PM
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I find the mud in the Fisher Towers to be the best of both worlds, pins go in and come out with the ease of a hot knife through butter. Sweeeeeet!
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shnobe
Oct 31, 2002, 4:44 PM
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English Gritstone is the best stuff I've ever placed pro in. It's so forgiving, Try it if you get a chance.
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freudian
Nov 4, 2002, 3:05 AM
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I prefer granite to hold my pro. It's solid and has great placments.
Solid limestone would be fine as well, though, most of the lime around my area is fractured from blasting... I don't trust it.
Also, if I could find some natural Quartzite I would also trust that.
:rock:
[ This Message was edited by: freudian on 2002-11-03 19:07 ]
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benblake
Nov 4, 2002, 3:33 AM
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i reckon that the quartzite sandstone at MT ARAPILES is bomber. no worries there.
it's my local crag too, along with the Grampians. Trad heaven baby!
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klimberbob
Nov 4, 2002, 4:08 AM
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Go the araps quartzite - good call on that - amazing bomber nuts.
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hendicrimpin
Nov 4, 2002, 5:25 AM
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granite. This weekend i climbed on some volcanic rock, which at the beginning looked perfect......but everything changed when a ledge the size of a watermelon disappeared from under my feet, a small crack disappeared from under my feet, and a lie back crack turned into an "in my hands and not attached to the wall piece of rock." I've never been so freaked out on a 5.7 trad climb before!
BEWARE of NEW ENGLAND WALL at Queen creek in AZ.
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edgelounger
Nov 4, 2002, 3:52 PM
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tuscarora sandstone on seneca, really hard
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geoteck
Nov 4, 2002, 4:30 PM
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I've yet to place gear, but geologically, granite and quartzite would generally seem best to me. This of course would depend on the area locally (some granites might fall apart very easilly). Sandstones and conglomerates may be OK, but I would think them more likely to come apart one grain at a time. (ie a pebble coming loose in a conglomerate).
Gneiss might be ok.
Just my two cents.
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