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stymingersfink


Jul 15, 2008, 1:18 AM
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The 2008-2009 Ice Conditions Thread
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Yep, it's that time of year again... when I sit looking at the ice melting in my scotch, wishing I were in the Southern Hemisphere (even though recent reports indicate the ice sheet off Antarctica is continuing to melt in spite of the winter conditions there).

Anyone got any good pics from seasons past to share? Perhaps a little something to take the sting outta winter's heat.



I'm hoping this thread will be a little different from last years. It seems some got the impression that the ice conditions were specific to the Wasatch. While frequent updates on my local conditions might lend that impression, as winter approaches please feel free (one and all) to post up facts and heresay about conditions in your area.


I'll start. This is pretty much what the ice in my area looks like right now:



I've finished the Scotch, the ice melted quickly.

edit to add:

each post should have one of two things or both: a nice pictshure of some frozen goodness, or a conditions report of what you've seen recently.


(This post was edited by stymingersfink on Jul 16, 2008, 10:02 AM)


stymingersfink


Jul 15, 2008, 1:28 AM
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and just to start things off on the other correct foot...




Scott Adamson working on the M8+(?) seventh pitch of Stairway to Heaven known as 7th Heaven.

(clicky the pic to take you to my route description on MP)


sungam


Jul 15, 2008, 2:24 AM
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Dave Macleod on his new route on Ben Nevis "Don't Die of Ignorance"
XI/11. Pretty inspiring stuff.
A little more my level, a route I really hope to do this year (okay, still not likely that I'll hual my sorry ass up it)



chossmonkey


Jul 15, 2008, 4:51 AM
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stymingersfink wrote:
and just to start things off on the other correct foot...




Scott Adamson working on the M8+(?) seventh pitch of Stairway to Heaven known as 7th Heaven.

(clicky the pic to take you to my route description on MP)
I don't know what would make people think its all about the Wasatch.


chossmonkey


Jul 15, 2008, 4:52 AM
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Le Tube, Pont Rouge




(This post was edited by chossmonkey on Jul 18, 2008, 7:07 AM)


sungam


Jul 15, 2008, 4:54 AM
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chossmonkey wrote:
I don't know what would make people think its all about the Wasatch.
Sorry, I really can't for the life of me work out what this means, am I missing something? (I don't have to GU all the previous ice conditions threads, do I?)


sungam


Jul 15, 2008, 4:55 AM
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chossmonkey wrote:
Le Tube, Pont Rouge
:) now THAT is some sexy fat ice.


(This post was edited by sungam on Jul 15, 2008, 4:55 AM)


chossmonkey


Jul 15, 2008, 5:01 AM
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A climber who no longer exists, on a route that no longer exists.




chossmonkey


Jul 15, 2008, 5:06 AM
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Secteur-de-Valentin, Pont Rouge




(This post was edited by chossmonkey on Jul 18, 2008, 7:09 AM)


stymingersfink


Jul 15, 2008, 9:14 AM
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chossmonkey wrote:
Secteur-de-Valentin, Pont Rouge

In reply to:
Forbidden

You don't have permission to access /g1/55/653055/2/93934851.YcnHPyDd.jpg on this server.
Apache/2.0.58 (Unix) Server at i.pbase.com Port 80

quit teasing me.


sungam


Jul 15, 2008, 9:29 AM
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Sorry if this photo comes out huge, dunno how to downsize.
If anyone is up for some epic scottish winter action, gies us a ring and I can get you a room, but don't forget your ski goggles:


not a photo of me, btw.


swaghole


Jul 15, 2008, 10:04 AM
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stymingersfink wrote:
Yep, it's that time of year again... quote]

Hell yes. I was browsing at the local outdoor store a few days ago looking for Chacos or Tevas and found a pair of brand spanking new Nepal Evo GTX for $200. Forgetting that I had 2 other pairs of ice climbing boots - I bought them! Now, I've been dreaming about ice. I think I'll go climb the 30' high wire fence at the local baseball field with my poons and tools to warm up for winter!


stymingersfink


Jul 15, 2008, 10:10 AM
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swaghole wrote:
stymingersfink wrote:
Yep, it's that time of year again...

Hell yes. I was browsing at the local outdoor store a few days ago looking for Chacos or Tevas and found a pair of brand spanking new Nepal Evo GTX for $200. Forgetting that I had 2 other pairs of ice climbing boots - I bought them! Now, I've been dreaming about ice. I think I'll go climb the 30' high wire fence at the local baseball field with my poons and tools to warm up for winter!


sungam


Jul 15, 2008, 10:24 AM
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stymingersfink wrote:
swaghole wrote:
stymingersfink wrote:
Yep, it's that time of year again...

Hell yes. I was browsing at the local outdoor store a few days ago looking for Chacos or Tevas and found a pair of brand spanking new Nepal Evo GTX for $200. Forgetting that I had 2 other pairs of ice climbing boots - I bought them! Now, I've been dreaming about ice. I think I'll go climb the 30' high wire fence at the local baseball field with my poons and tools to warm up for winter!
If you want it done right, you gotta do it yourself, eh?


granite_grrl


Jul 15, 2008, 10:41 AM
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Hmmm, I'll be needing a new pair of boots this year. I'm hoping to score a pair second hand. Figure this would be a good place to start.

In most boots I think I'll need a 42.5. I sure wouldn't mind finding a pair or Nepal Evo GTX in my size out there. Angelic


swaghole


Jul 15, 2008, 11:23 AM
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granite_grrl wrote:
Hmmm, I'll be needing a new pair of boots this year. I'm hoping to score a pair second hand. Figure this would be a good place to start.

In most boots I think I'll need a 42.5. I sure wouldn't mind finding a pair or Nepal Evo GTX in my size out there. Angelic

You might want to have a look at the Scarpa Summit GTX. There's a woman specific model available at MEC. My wife loves hers. Narrower heel and extra warm (women tend to get cold feet). Perfect for WI and confortable for long approaches. They are cheaper then the Nepals. I've seen them for $300 in the US.


anykineclimb


Jul 15, 2008, 11:40 AM
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yeah, I'm waiting for ice also...


Was able to score some Scarpa Fruit boots, so I'm looking forward to 1. gettingthem! 2. trying them out


mattb1921


Jul 15, 2008, 11:48 AM
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I can't wait for ice season. Here is a pic rapping off my last WI route of this year. This was late may in Silverton.



chossmonkey


Jul 15, 2008, 12:07 PM
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swaghole wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Hmmm, I'll be needing a new pair of boots this year. I'm hoping to score a pair second hand. Figure this would be a good place to start.

In most boots I think I'll need a 42.5. I sure wouldn't mind finding a pair or Nepal Evo GTX in my size out there. Angelic

You might want to have a look at the Scarpa Summit GTX. There's a woman specific model available at MEC. My wife loves hers. Narrower heel and extra warm (women tend to get cold feet). Perfect for WI and confortable for long approaches. They are cheaper then the Nepals. I've seen them for $300 in the US.
I hate to be rude, but this is an ice conditions thread, NOT a gear thread.




I'll have to post another pic now.




chossmonkey


Jul 15, 2008, 12:10 PM
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chossmonkey wrote:
swaghole wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Hmmm, I'll be needing a new pair of boots this year. I'm hoping to score a pair second hand. Figure this would be a good place to start.

In most boots I think I'll need a 42.5. I sure wouldn't mind finding a pair or Nepal Evo GTX in my size out there. Angelic

You might want to have a look at the Scarpa Summit GTX. There's a woman specific model available at MEC. My wife loves hers. Narrower heel and extra warm (women tend to get cold feet). Perfect for WI and confortable for long approaches. They are cheaper then the Nepals. I've seen them for $300 in the US.
I hate to be rude, but this is an ice conditions thread, NOT a gear thread. [image]http://www.climbeasterncanada.com/images/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif[/image]




I'll have to post another pic now.



the_climber


Jul 15, 2008, 12:57 PM
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Pic that I took of a climber on GBU in the Ghost river Valley, AB. Skinner uplaoded it to the site before I could.



A pic of Skinner seconding a pitch on Wully Canyon in the Ghost River Valley, AB.
On the lead I was pummled by spin drift. Snowing around 10cm/hour that day, everyone had their avi gear. Good times. The "snow ledge just below him is actually a 4 or 5 foot deep accumulation of spindrift deposit that only the Pruvian Andies Mountain Gods can explain as to why/how it was staying where it was.


(This post was edited by the_climber on Jul 15, 2008, 1:00 PM)


jumar


Jul 15, 2008, 1:13 PM
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I didn't get out much last winter (a shame considering how great it was in Utah). Hope to remedy that this year.

Can't wait!


stymingersfink


Jul 15, 2008, 1:22 PM
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the_climber wrote:

Nice shot!


nilcarborundum


Jul 15, 2008, 1:30 PM
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chossmonkey wrote:
swaghole wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Hmmm, I'll be needing a new pair of boots this year. I'm hoping to score a pair second hand. Figure this would be a good place to start.

In most boots I think I'll need a 42.5. I sure wouldn't mind finding a pair or Nepal Evo GTX in my size out there. Angelic

You might want to have a look at the Scarpa Summit GTX. There's a woman specific model available at MEC. My wife loves hers. Narrower heel and extra warm (women tend to get cold feet). Perfect for WI and confortable for long approaches. They are cheaper then the Nepals. I've seen them for $300 in the US.
I hate to be rude, but this is an ice conditions thread, NOT a gear thread.




I'll have to post another pic now.



To help get back on track then, does anyone know how current conditions look in the Tetons right now? Specifically the NW ice coulior on the Middle.


sungam


Jul 15, 2008, 3:28 PM
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anykineclimb wrote:
yeah, I'm waiting for ice also...


Was able to score some Scarpa Fruit boots, so I'm looking forward to 1. gettingthem! 2. trying them out
Laphroig? A fine malt, for sure, but not nearly the best Islay has to offer. I find that it has a discernible, yet disagreeable edge to it. What a scent, though.
How much did you get the fruit boots for?

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