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Darkforrest
Jul 18, 2008, 9:42 PM
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I plan on doing a 8 pitch route at the end of the summer. What do I need that I don't have for my single pitch routes.
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hafilax
Jul 18, 2008, 9:49 PM
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We need more information to answer that question.
Gear anchors or bolted? Hanging belays?
ed: I just saw this was in the sport climbing forum but you get the idea.
Leading in blocks or swapping leads?
Easy or long approaches and descents?
Rap descent or walk off? 2 rope raps or 1?
Hot or cool weather?
etc.
(This post was edited by hafilax on Jul 18, 2008, 9:51 PM)
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kennoyce
Jul 18, 2008, 9:55 PM
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Just to add to the above list, what is it that you already have?
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acorneau
Jul 18, 2008, 9:58 PM
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Darkforrest wrote: I plan on doing a 8 pitch route at the end of the summer. What do I need that I don't have for my single pitch routes.
Multi-pitch skills?!?
Seriously, a little more anchoring gear (slings/cord, lockers) and a small pack is about all you need to add, gear-wise.
However, there are skills you'll need to add to your single-pitch skills including (but not limited to): top belaying, deciding on when to swing leads versus block leading, multi-pitch rappelling, rappelling versus lowering, escaping the belay, self-rescue, judging weather patterns...
(Take it away, folks!)
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Darkforrest
Jul 18, 2008, 10:00 PM
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http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Idaho/McCall/Slick_Rock/Slick_Rock/Memorial_56189.html
Is the route I assume its completely bolted.
My climbing partner only leads 5.6 and less and dont have a topo on it yet, so i will probibly lead most of it.
It has a walk off but we will have 2 ropes to rappel if we want to.
We have 18 draws and 2 slings already. We want to have 2 more slings already.
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Darkforrest
Jul 18, 2008, 10:04 PM
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I have top belayed a couple times, but any pointers would be appreciated.
Escaping the belay? I imagine it is what it sounds like but I would appreciate any more info on this.
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acorneau
Jul 18, 2008, 10:13 PM
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Darkforrest wrote: I have top belayed a couple times, but any pointers would be appreciated.
Practice the various methods (while on the ground) to get comfortable with them and help you learn what technique works best in what scenario.
In reply to: Escaping the belay? I imagine it is what it sounds like but I would appreciate any more info on this.
Put your reading glasses on!
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...20the%20belay;#35817
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stymingersfink
Jul 18, 2008, 10:15 PM
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Darkforrest wrote: http://www.rockclimbing.com/.../Memorial_56189.html Is the route I assume its completely bolted. My climbing partner only leads 5.6 and less and dont have a topo on it yet, so i will probibly lead most of it. It has a walk off but we will have 2 ropes to rappel if we want to. We have 18 draws and 2 slings already. We want to have 2 more slings already.
18 draws is plenty of draws.
escaping the belay is something better practiced on single-pitch stuff, it's nice to carry "personal gear" to manage that with if the situation should arise. another question might be "so you've escaped the belay, WTF are you gonna do now!?!"
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yokese
Jul 18, 2008, 10:19 PM
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I'd suggest you to choose an experienced partner for your first multipitch climbs. When you get some experience yourself, then it's time to go with your current 5.6-climber partner.
I'd also suggest you to stay away from the internet searching for advice on this kind of things. Even the most well intended advice cannot take into consideration many important factors, like your current experience level. Things that are trivial 10 feet over the ground can become an epic at 200 feet.
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dan2see
Jul 19, 2008, 12:48 AM
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yokese wrote: I'd suggest you to choose an experienced partner for your first multipitch climbs. When you get some experience yourself, then it's time to go with your current 5.6-climber partner. I'd also suggest you to stay away from the internet searching for advice on this kind of things. Even the most well intended advice cannot take into consideration many important factors, like your current experience level. Things that are trivial 10 feet over the ground can become an epic at 200 feet.
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Darkforrest
Jul 19, 2008, 1:39 AM
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In reply to: I'd also suggest you to stay away from the internet searching for advice on this kind of things.
Don't take this the wrong way, but you guys just told me to not take the advice you just gave me. lol
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petsfed
Jul 19, 2008, 2:41 AM
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Darkforrest wrote: In reply to: I'd also suggest you to stay away from the internet searching for advice on this kind of things. Don't take this the wrong way, but you guys just told me to not take the advice you just gave me. lol
Exactly. Nothing we say will actually prevent you from dieing, and your misplaced confidence from listening to us may contribute to your preventable demise.
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the_leech
Jul 19, 2008, 5:00 AM
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Darkforrest wrote: What do I need that I don't have for my single pitch routes.
A functional brain would be a good start.
Good luck with that.
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Darkforrest
Jul 19, 2008, 5:19 AM
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the_leech wrote: Darkforrest wrote: What do I need that I don't have for my single pitch routes. A functional brain would be a good start. Good luck with that.
Where can I pick one of those up?
Wait you would not know as you don't have one either.
I was asking more about gear but willing to take any advice and not being an idiot I always take things with a grain of salt.
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notapplicable
Jul 19, 2008, 5:19 AM
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petsfed wrote: Darkforrest wrote: In reply to: I'd also suggest you to stay away from the internet searching for advice on this kind of things. Don't take this the wrong way, but you guys just told me to not take the advice you just gave me. lol Exactly. Nothing we say will actually prevent you from dieing, and your misplaced confidence from listening to us may contribute to your preventable inevitable demise.
edited for accuracy
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the_leech
Jul 19, 2008, 5:27 AM
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Darkforrest wrote: I was asking more about gear but willing to take any advice
Then I stand by my original recommendation.
Until you address that issue, gear is superfluous.
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Darkforrest
Jul 19, 2008, 5:30 AM
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You guys are so cool. Saying I will die because you are better then me in every way. Wouldn't it be cool if i did die then you all could be right. Just to make sure you guys find out when I die, I will make sure its part of my will that you get an e-mail so you can tell everyone you where right for once.
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shoo
Jul 19, 2008, 5:39 AM
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Consider bringing a parachute.
Seriously, you shouldn't be doing this if you don't already know what you need. Get a guide or a more experienced partner and have them show you the basics of multi-pitch. Then do it again and again until you're confident you could not only lead the physical difficulty (the grade), but can also manage the additional skill requirements that multi-pitch has. If you don't know what these are, and you probably don't, you aren't there yet.
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the_leech
Jul 19, 2008, 5:46 AM
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Darkforrest wrote: ... so you can tell everyone you where right for once.
You mean "were right for once."
You need to brush up on your grammar if you want to climb long routes.
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Darkforrest
Jul 19, 2008, 5:52 AM
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You have cemented me doing this now.
I don't need a guide. I am confident I can lead the grade as I have been climbing at the grade of 5.8 for 2 years now. I don't need advice as far as what i need to do to complete the route just wanted to make sure that I didn't need more gear that what I already KNEW i needed.
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Darkforrest
Jul 19, 2008, 5:53 AM
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the_leech wrote: Darkforrest wrote: ... so you can tell everyone you where right for once. You mean " were right for once." You need to brush up on your grammar if you want to climb long routes.
Ya because knowing which were to use is the telling factor if i can climb or not.
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shoo
Jul 19, 2008, 6:30 AM
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I'm not telling you that you can't lead 5.8. I'm telling you that you probably don't have the skills to be the head of a group on a multi-pitch route. They are different things.
There are additional skills not directly related to pulling yourself up a wall that multi-pitch requires. Some people have already mentioned a few (belaying from the top, basic self-rescue, anchor organization, etc) These are not things you have likely been exposed to.
Believe me, I understand that you may not have an appreciation for these skills just yet. I didn't initially, before my first multi-pitch climbs. Then I followed my much more experienced friend/climbing mentor on several multi-pitch routes and began to realize exactly how much I didn't know.
Gear is highly dependent upon individual style, skills, and preferences. The mere fact that you don't know what you want and need suggests to me that you don't truly know the tradeoffs of bringing one type of gear over another. You also won't know the real value in some items.
Probably the best example I can come up with at 2am is prussik cords. Useful for all kinds of things, such as backing up rappels, escaping the belay, and hauling if need be. If you aren't experienced with this, then a prussik cord won't do you much good. On the other hand, I have a partner who can do all of these things, but prefers not to carry a prussik and uses other rigging techniques. We both have about equal experience and knowledge, it's just that we have different styles.
Simple things like exchanging gear at an anchor and preparing for the next lead are more difficult than you would anticipate unless you've actually done them a few times.
(This post was edited by shoo on Jul 19, 2008, 6:33 AM)
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notapplicable
Jul 19, 2008, 6:55 AM
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Darkforrest wrote: You guys are so cool. Saying I will die because you are better then me in every way. Wouldn't it be cool if i did die then you all could be right. Just to make sure you guys find out when I die, I will make sure its part of my will that you get an e-mail so you can tell everyone you where right for once.
Dude, it was a joke. Your about to head a 5.8 all bolted slab route, for all intents and purposes, its a cake walk. Just keep your wits about you and double check your self and your partner at each belay and rappel. Your gonna have a blast but relax a little man, this is the intranet.
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qwert
Jul 20, 2008, 2:01 PM
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Darkforrest, dont take everything so serious, its teh inturwebz ater all.
What you should take serious however is multipitch climbing.
From what i have read, chances are quite high that you can do the mentioned route with 18 draws and two slings and a 5.6 follower, but i would really suggest that you learn a bit more, before taking someone even less experienced on a multipitch route.
I could suggest you some gear (leave 8 of your 18 quickdraws at home, but add a few lockers, slings and prusik cords, as well as a munter biner), but that gear wont do you any good, if you dont know how to use it.
Prusiks are a valuable tool for rescue scenarios as well as rappeling, but you need to practice that stuff.
The Munter hitch is a nice method for top belayig (and also for generall belaying purposes) but you need to know how it works and its limitations.
What belay (and rappel) device do you use? I suppose an atc or something the like. Do you know that the cant simply be used in a way as you would in single pitch cllimbing, when you are standing on the ground?
and so on.
So that woudl be some pointers. Of course you can search here, or with google or on wikipedia for all this stuff, but noone is taking responsibility for the stuff thats written there.
The internet is a nice source for informations, but its often quite hard to pick up the various gems among the giant heap of useless pebbles.
So really, the best advice is: find someone experienced to go with you.
Arent there any alpine clubs or something in america? If you cant find someone get a guide.
Ór at least read a book. There you can find all the information you need for a basis in one piece, without flames and such. If you have detailed questions that are not covered there, feel free to ask them here, but always use your brain,
qwert
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rtwilli4
Jul 21, 2008, 5:59 AM
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you can't learn this kind of stuff on the internet bro. There are a lot of things that can go wrong, even if your climbing all bolted stuff. I'd recommend taking a class or going out with an experienced climber. If you're up for the challenge w/out more experience, then try and talk to someone who has climbed the route.
Reading about rope management is a start, as that is the main difference between being on the ground and being hundreds of feet up in the air.
most of the problems I've seen inexperienced climbers run into (besides freaking out because they are "so exposed") is during the descent, or at the anchors. Like I said... rope management.
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