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klopik
Jul 24, 2008, 7:19 PM
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Registered: Sep 26, 2006
Posts: 119
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I'm not sure if anyone would know, or if this is the right place to ask this, but...
Is there any area around San Francisco, with some really easy sport climbs?
I want to introduce a friend to lead climbing, and he really wants to try it outdoors...
Anyone? :)
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crackmeup
Jul 24, 2008, 8:00 PM
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Registered: Nov 23, 2006
Posts: 146
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It depends on what you consider really easy. There is a 3-bolt 5.8 slab at Indian Rock, across from Castle Rock State Park. That would be a good first lead, perhaps you could pre-clip the first bolt for your friend. Everything else is at least 10a.
There is a very well protected 5.9 (some people say 10a) at Mount Diablo called Amazing Face. I remember it had bolts every 6 - 8 feet.
Castle Rock proper has a 5.4 climb/scramble to the top, most people solo it to set up the top rope for other routes but you can protect the bottom part with gear if you want.
I remember seeing some bolts at Cragmont Park in Berkeley a long time ago but never climbed on them.
I don't know of anything below 5.8 that's bolted, you may want to search the route database or take a look at Rock Climbing in the San Francisco Bay Area by Tresa Black.
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caughtinside
Jul 24, 2008, 8:25 PM
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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There are not a lot of options near by.
Diablo has a couple.
Grotto near sonora has some but is hot this time of year and is a 2:15 drive.
Bear Crag at St. helena has several nice ones but the easiest is .10b.
There are a couple low quality easy routes at Mickey's beach.
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playouts1de
Jul 24, 2008, 8:41 PM
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Registered: Nov 29, 2006
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I second and third those comments. CR pretty much opens up in the 10s and the bay area really isnt that great of a sport area. Pinnacles will be a drive, but there are a couple lower level leads at tourist trap. Ive taught lead there on the last route on the cliff, 5.7/8 80'?. I cant remember the name and RC wont let me in to the route section , but its got clean falls and easy clips, especialy after you pass the belay station (that I skip, its not nessecary)
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docburner
Jul 25, 2008, 12:38 AM
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Registered: Jul 11, 2005
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Go to summit rock, I think there is a super easy 5.7, and a more classic 5.8/5.9 there.
Easy to setup topropes for other stuff (note its not easy to set one up for the classic 5.8/9 without leading it. Worth going there for 1 day.
Consider going to owens river gorge or clark canyon, I think those where the two best beginner sport climber areas I've been to.
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rhyang
Jul 25, 2008, 4:21 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Summit Rock may still be closed for raptor nesting (new thing this year) -- there were signs as of last Sunday. Call up the ranger at Sanborn county park (parkhere.org) if questions.
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tolman_paul
Jul 25, 2008, 6:44 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2005
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Amazing face at Diablo. 1/2 pitch 5.8 with 10 bolts. Though somehow folks now consider it a 5.9. There are also some nice 5.10 and 5.11's nearby.
At summit rock across from castle rock there are a few easy short 3 bolt routes. 5.7-5.8 the SCU practice climbs.
(This post was edited by tolman_paul on Jul 25, 2008, 6:49 PM)
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