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mojomonkey
Jul 28, 2008, 2:03 PM
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Registered: Aug 13, 2006
Posts: 869
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I gave this route a try this weekend and didn't get happy feelings from the anchor at the top of the 5.9 pitch. I'm no bolter, but I've always heard the rule of thumb is that a bolt should be at least 10 bolt diameters from another bolt or weakness in the rock. The right hand bolt of the anchor is a mess. There is a partially drilled hole that looks like it was aborted when the rock around it fractured. About three or four inches (going by memory here) left is another bolt hole with a sawed off bolt still in it. Between these two is the current anchor bolt, complete with a visible crack from the sawed off bolt to the "good" hole. The other anchor bolt was probably just outside the 10 bolt diameter. It was drilled into a shallow/narrow groove, a couple inches from a few inch tall right facing corner. Not sure if either of those features counts as a weakness, but given the rock quality at Birdsboro (some glue keeping at least one of the holds on this route and a series of X'd chunks leading to the anchor), I didn't want to trust it. I remember seeing at least one sawed off bolt still in the rock on the top section. Was someone practicing bolting here? Maybe I am overreacting - I have never heard of a bolt failure there and have seen some pretty scary looking bolts (from rusted out to shattered rock visible behind the hanger). This one seems dangerous to leave out there though...
(This post was edited by mojomonkey on Jul 28, 2008, 2:05 PM)
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chossmonkey
Jul 28, 2008, 3:43 PM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
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Sounds shitty, you should have taken a pic.
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