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chossmonkey
Jul 28, 2008, 7:24 PM
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chossmonkey
Jul 28, 2008, 7:25 PM
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even if ythey use protekshunz
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chossmonkey
Jul 28, 2008, 7:26 PM
Post #5228 of 26795
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My fingers hurt.
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the_climber
Jul 28, 2008, 7:39 PM
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dr_feelgood wrote: epoch wrote: the_climber wrote: stymingersfink wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: stymingersfink wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: the_climber wrote: epoch wrote: No FAs here this weekend, but I did get in some good climbs. Another week... boo No FA's for me this weekend either. We were workign on a new route though. Got up the first 70m, then started a variation to take advantage of better rock to the left of the original line. I was almost 20m out on the lead from the anchors when a big ass thunder boomer started showering the peaks on the other side of the Bow Valley with a massive electrical show. Given that we could tell exactly which peaks and damn near how many meters from the summit the lighting was hitting we decided that it was prudent to get the fuck outta there! So far the route goes at 5.8, with protection being a mix of trad gear and a few bolts to reduce 50 foot runouts. Looking forward to getting back on the bitch. This is going to sound like a coffee shop bitch, but I worked all fucking weekend. never hear you bitch about it when you get two days off mid-week though do we? WTF?  Nah, but the last day off i had was wednesday two weeks ago. well that does suck then. I hope they're compensating you well for not having a life, either that or letting you bank your days off. banking days is a personal favorite. to a point. Yeah to a point. My Bro has something stupid on the order of 40 days banked, but has been screwed on every day off for the past 6 months. He's oncall on his days off and has to be within 1 hour of work at those times. About once a month he's able to get back to town to get his banking and whatnot done, then has to rush back out to the boonies. They're really understaffed... he's a Fish Biologist forking for the Government, so no real hope of them actually spending the money on trying to find more staff let alone paying more people to work. I never knew time was life-and-death being a fish biologist. At last, he realized the depth of his ignorance.
I think it's more of a matter that he realizes the extent of his student debt.
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chossmonkey
Jul 28, 2008, 7:58 PM
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Did you hear how much those glue-ins would be from Wicked Gravity? If I order them from Fixe they would be just over $11 a piece including shipping if I just get 5, and just under $10 if I get 10. Right now I only need 4, but if I add any more routes I'll probably need a few more.
I'd like to know where MEC gets their Fixe stuff from. They are way cheaper than buying them from Fixe in the States.
Maybe I should just get some really long 1/2 mech bolts? I wanted the glue-ins for lower visual impacts as well as the better stength in choss though.
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the_climber
Jul 28, 2008, 8:09 PM
Post #5232 of 26795
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chossmonkey wrote: Did you hear how much those glue-ins would be from Wicked Gravity? If I order them from Fixe they would be just over $11 a piece including shipping if I just get 5, and just under $10 if I get 10. Right now I only need 4, but if I add any more routes I'll probably need a few more. I'd like to know where MEC gets their Fixe stuff from. They are way cheaper than buying them from Fixe in the States. Maybe I should just get some really long 1/2 mech bolts? I wanted the glue-ins for lower visual impacts as well as the better stength in choss though.
I'll ask dave what he figures the cost per bolt would be next time at his shop.
MEC has a better price for the same reason that DDM gear is cheaper there than in Wales, despite the fact it is made there. They buy in huge volume. I would susspect that MEC isn't really concered on making money on botl sales. That would keep their price down, and would also explain why they have shit for selection these days.
They are more worried about what sells the most. Which is why they have less than 1/4 the selection in climbign gear than they used to, and why their selection is boots is SHITE! All they have in hikign boots are the ones that would fall apart in less than a year if I was wearing them.
Not to mention their staff are fucking retards. One of my partners was tryign on mountian boots (so he would know what size to order at a different shop) and the girl kept trying to sell him approach shoes claiming "they are raelly good for climbing". Then she was confused when he said they needed to be crampon compatable, and have enough support to carry a week's worth of supplies over areas without an established trail.... so she broght out a pair of "day hikers" with a higher ankle. He left.
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sungam
Jul 28, 2008, 8:53 PM
Post #5234 of 26795
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the_climber wrote: MEC has a better price for the same reason that DDM gear is cheaper there than in Wales, despite the fact it is made there.
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the_climber
Jul 28, 2008, 9:02 PM
Post #5235 of 26795
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I climbed with a Scot who had DDM Fly's years ago (I was still climbing on my set of Fly's then), who was all stoke about how good of a pro deal he got. The I told him what I paid for mine... then he was pissed off.
Wait never mind... fuck I swore I heard something.
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sungam
Jul 28, 2008, 9:09 PM
Post #5236 of 26795
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the_climber wrote: I climbed with a Scot who had DDM Fly's years ago (I was still climbing on my set of Fly's then), who was all stoke about how good of a pro deal he got. The I told him what I paid for mine... then he was pissed off. Wait never mind... fuck I swore I heard something.
I mean the cosmetic seconds! woo!
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epoch
Moderator
Jul 28, 2008, 9:14 PM
Post #5238 of 26795
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[note: this statement needs to get buried]
I are going bouldering in a few. Mebe eye wil make another "deAth anchor" for teh trolling...
GUd work everyone for mah last thread.
Oh, and Nate. That anchor was truck. I was the first one to weight it. I weigh 98 kilos, and I bounced.
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dr_feelgood
Jul 28, 2008, 9:15 PM
Post #5239 of 26795
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the_climber wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: epoch wrote: the_climber wrote: stymingersfink wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: stymingersfink wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: the_climber wrote: epoch wrote: No FAs here this weekend, but I did get in some good climbs. Another week... boo No FA's for me this weekend either. We were workign on a new route though. Got up the first 70m, then started a variation to take advantage of better rock to the left of the original line. I was almost 20m out on the lead from the anchors when a big ass thunder boomer started showering the peaks on the other side of the Bow Valley with a massive electrical show. Given that we could tell exactly which peaks and damn near how many meters from the summit the lighting was hitting we decided that it was prudent to get the fuck outta there! So far the route goes at 5.8, with protection being a mix of trad gear and a few bolts to reduce 50 foot runouts. Looking forward to getting back on the bitch. This is going to sound like a coffee shop bitch, but I worked all fucking weekend. never hear you bitch about it when you get two days off mid-week though do we? WTF? Nah, but the last day off i had was wednesday two weeks ago. well that does suck then. I hope they're compensating you well for not having a life, either that or letting you bank your days off. banking days is a personal favorite. to a point. Yeah to a point. My Bro has something stupid on the order of 40 days banked, but has been screwed on every day off for the past 6 months. He's oncall on his days off and has to be within 1 hour of work at those times. About once a month he's able to get back to town to get his banking and whatnot done, then has to rush back out to the boonies. They're really understaffed... he's a Fish Biologist forking for the Government, so no real hope of them actually spending the money on trying to find more staff let alone paying more people to work. I never knew time was life-and-death being a fish biologist. At last, he realized the depth of his ignorance. I think it's more of a matter that he realizes the extent of his student debt.
I was speaking metaphorically about e-kops lack of knowledge of the breeding habits of the rare canadian fish biologist
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epoch
Moderator
Jul 28, 2008, 9:15 PM
Post #5240 of 26795
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Eye dun't wuntz tew gho tew teh class twonite.
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epoch
Moderator
Jul 28, 2008, 9:18 PM
Post #5241 of 26795
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dr_feelgood wrote: the_climber wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: epoch wrote: the_climber wrote: stymingersfink wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: stymingersfink wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: the_climber wrote: epoch wrote: No FAs here this weekend, but I did get in some good climbs. Another week... boo No FA's for me this weekend either. We were workign on a new route though. Got up the first 70m, then started a variation to take advantage of better rock to the left of the original line. I was almost 20m out on the lead from the anchors when a big ass thunder boomer started showering the peaks on the other side of the Bow Valley with a massive electrical show. Given that we could tell exactly which peaks and damn near how many meters from the summit the lighting was hitting we decided that it was prudent to get the fuck outta there! So far the route goes at 5.8, with protection being a mix of trad gear and a few bolts to reduce 50 foot runouts. Looking forward to getting back on the bitch. This is going to sound like a coffee shop bitch, but I worked all fucking weekend. never hear you bitch about it when you get two days off mid-week though do we? WTF? Nah, but the last day off i had was wednesday two weeks ago. well that does suck then. I hope they're compensating you well for not having a life, either that or letting you bank your days off. banking days is a personal favorite. to a point. Yeah to a point. My Bro has something stupid on the order of 40 days banked, but has been screwed on every day off for the past 6 months. He's oncall on his days off and has to be within 1 hour of work at those times. About once a month he's able to get back to town to get his banking and whatnot done, then has to rush back out to the boonies. They're really understaffed... he's a Fish Biologist forking for the Government, so no real hope of them actually spending the money on trying to find more staff let alone paying more people to work. I never knew time was life-and-death being a fish biologist. At last, he realized the depth of his ignorance. I think it's more of a matter that he realizes the extent of his student debt. I was speaking metaphorically about e-kops lack of knowledge of the breeding habits of the rare canadian fish biologist
Would you like to, then, expand for us the breeding cycle of the Canadian Brown Trout? Since you, apparently, seem so well adept to the knowledge of such intricate details of the operation that would preclude a man from taking vacation at his own leisure.
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sungam
Jul 28, 2008, 9:22 PM
Post #5242 of 26795
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Okay, that one worked.
I'm leaving.
I don't want to know about the sex life of the things that have sex in what I drink.
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wanderlustmd
Jul 28, 2008, 10:08 PM
Post #5243 of 26795
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Greetings from Squamish. Lunch break right now from climbing, so I thought I'd make you gel-us
These are for the Stinkyfingerz. I just did a three-pitch C2+ the other day. First time climbing on hooks and heads, pretty fun. Scary at first, but suprisingly secure.
I'm supposed to meet friends in the valley in two and a half weeks, but Yosemite is apparently on fire. This could get interesting.
Hey 'poch, are you still coming?
Later yall!
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the_climber
Jul 28, 2008, 10:13 PM
Post #5244 of 26795
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Red "X"
Red "X"
Red "X"
Red "X"
Red "X"
Red "X"
Red "X"
Red "X"
Red "X"
Red "X"
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wanderlustmd
Jul 28, 2008, 10:23 PM
Post #5245 of 26795
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the_climber wrote: Red "X" Red "X" Red "X" Red "X" Red "X" Red "X" Red "X" Red "X" Red "X" Red "X"
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chossmonkey
Jul 28, 2008, 10:30 PM
Post #5246 of 26795
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stymingersfink wrote: chossmonkey wrote: I think Fixe would ship here, but I would get killed on shipping and taxes. wish this had come to light a little sooner. Geo's headed up thattaway for a little personal R&R as we speak, she prob'ly could have included the bolts into her "camping" gear and dropped them somewhere in BC. Now, although i'm not entirely certain where her itinerary will be taking her, I'm sure something could have been done to avoid the taxes. 
I think just picking it up in MN would be the easiest, cheapest thing to do. I have to go back there anyway.
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chossmonkey
Jul 28, 2008, 10:35 PM
Post #5247 of 26795
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the_climber wrote: MEC has a better price for the same reason that DDM gear is cheaper there than in Wales, despite the fact it is made there. They buy in huge volume. I would susspect that MEC isn't really concered on making money on botl sales. That would keep their price down, and would also explain why they have shit for selection these days.
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chossmonkey
Jul 28, 2008, 10:37 PM
Post #5248 of 26795
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epoch wrote: [note: this statement needs to get buried] I are going bouldering in a few. Mebe eye wil make another "deAth anchor" for teh trolling... GUd work everyone for mah last thread. Oh, and Nate. That anchor was truck. I was the first one to weight it. I weigh 98 kilos, and I bounced.
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Re: [chossmonkey] The Lounge™
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