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tedman
Aug 7, 2008, 9:59 PM
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So between my partners rack and mine, we have doubles of everything from #2 mastercams up through #2 C4s, a single #1 mastercam and a single #3 c4. I'm wondering if I should go for zero sized mastercams/c3s, or the #4 c4. I was on Haitus at lumpy ridge (pure awesome 5.7) and the #4 would have come in real handy, but at the same time, on the same climb, the 0s also would have been very nice (the 2nd pitch starts with a dihedral layback crack that starts at about a foot wide and gradually tapers to nothing, unless you have big pro there is nothing for the first 20-30 feet). We also have 2 sets of nuts (4-12) which cover the small size (I'm going to pick up some smaller stoppers too, cheap and weigh nothing, why not).
So I guess my question is big or small? I already have some coverage at the small end in passive pro, but really, how often does that #4 or #5 c4 come in handy? But then again, when you need it you need it and nothing else will do. Whereas the #1 mastercam gets placed on about 90% of our pitches, im sure a size smaller would get used just about as much. I climb at eldo and lumpy for most of my trad kicks right now, but I'm sure that will expand to the rest of colorado as the seasons progress.
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stymingersfink
Aug 7, 2008, 10:25 PM
Post #2 of 21
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tedman wrote: So between my partners rack and mine, we have doubles of everything from #2 mastercams up through #2 C4s, a single #1 mastercam and a single #3 c4. I'm wondering if I should go for zero sized mastercams/c3s, or the #4 c4. I was on Haitus at lumpy ridge (pure awesome 5.7) and the #4 would have come in real handy, but at the same time, on the same climb, the 0s also would have been very nice (the 2nd pitch starts with a dihedral layback crack that starts at about a foot wide and gradually tapers to nothing, unless you have big pro there is nothing for the first 20-30 feet). We also have 2 sets of nuts (4-12) which cover the small size (I'm going to pick up some smaller stoppers too, cheap and weigh nothing, why not). So I guess my question is big or small? I already have some coverage at the small end in passive pro, but really, how often does that #4 or #5 c4 come in handy? But then again, when you need it you need it and nothing else will do. Whereas the #1 mastercam gets placed on about 90% of our pitches, im sure a size smaller would get used just about as much. I climb at eldo and lumpy for most of my trad kicks right now, but I'm sure that will expand to the rest of colorado as the seasons progress.
yeah, buy that one.
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patmay81
Aug 7, 2008, 10:58 PM
Post #3 of 21
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to me nothing is quite as big a confidence builder as a bomber #4!
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stymingersfink
Aug 7, 2008, 11:38 PM
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patmay81 wrote: to me nothing is quite as big a confidence builder as a bomber #4!
it's the .5 camalots and TCU's that make me feel better about gettin gear in!
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chossmonkey
Aug 8, 2008, 12:07 AM
Post #5 of 21
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patmay81 wrote: to me nothing is quite as big a confidence builder as a bomber #4!
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stymingersfink
Aug 8, 2008, 12:11 AM
Post #6 of 21
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chossmonkey wrote: patmay81 wrote: to me nothing is quite as big a confidence builder as a bomber #4! #4 nut?
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dynamo_
Aug 8, 2008, 1:11 AM
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#4 around here is a halfway specialty piece...
In my mind, you have to try real hard to fall out of a crack that size....less so on a tips crack or crimpy face climb where all you get is small gear in horizontals or somesuch...
Get that small gear! I'm scared talking about it!
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krosbakken
Aug 8, 2008, 1:17 AM
Post #8 of 21
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This is just what im thinking. Sense you have a shit load of small stuff already ( nuts and cams ) I would buy the bigger cam or cams. Because Ive been in the situation where there is no small stuff and a #4 or #5 C4s would come in really nice. Doesn't happen often but it does.
Just my two cents.
(This post was edited by krosbakken on Aug 8, 2008, 4:29 PM)
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scottb
Aug 8, 2008, 1:22 AM
Post #9 of 21
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I votes for BIG!!!
The #4 C4 is nice to have. Especially if you're doubled up in the smaller sizes with yo nutz. It's more like the old 3.5. Whenever a topo suggests gear "up to 3.5" I bring the #4. It's not that heavy, especially compared to the old purple #4.
You may also want to consider what will happen if you and your partner get divorced. What gear would you be lacking then?
OR... you could skip new gear and put the money toward putting gas into your car and some scotch into your belly.
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jmeizis
Aug 8, 2008, 1:30 AM
Post #10 of 21
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I haven't climbed at Lumpy yet but in the places in Colorado I have been I've found the #4 Camalot more necessary than the small cams. More often than not I can get in a nut in those smaller sizes.
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Tipton
Aug 8, 2008, 2:20 AM
Post #11 of 21
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jmeizis wrote: I haven't climbed at Lumpy yet but in the places in Colorado I have been I've found the #4 Camalot more necessary than the small cams. More often than not I can get in a nut in those smaller sizes.
Thumbs up for the smaller sizers. Wait, are we still talking about gear?
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jmeizis
Aug 8, 2008, 2:23 AM
Post #12 of 21
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Well sometimes it feels real good in those smaller sizes...other times I feel like I'm trying to jam in a nut where it just doesn't fit.
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granite_grrl
Aug 8, 2008, 3:17 PM
Post #13 of 21
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It totally depends on what you're climbing. I use my #1 TCU all the time, but I do tend to like smaller cracks. At the same time that #4 C4 is really nice when you need it, but how often do you think you'll need it?
Why not get your partner to buy the #4 C4 and you pick up a couple of small cams?
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AlexCV
Aug 8, 2008, 5:03 PM
Post #14 of 21
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If you mostly climb easier grades, I think the #4 is more useful. But that's mostly because in places where a #4 is useful, it's usually pretty large for a while. Now on harder grades (5.10 and up) small might be better.
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djlachelt
Aug 8, 2008, 7:17 PM
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You're getting lots of votes on either side. How about just decide based on what your next adventure requires... 'course you need some beta before you head to the crag.
Barring that, just start going back and forth - one big, then one small, one big, etc.
Another thought, if you are in NoCO you'll probably head to Vedauwoo sometime... and you'll def want the big stuff.
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GeneralBenson
Aug 12, 2008, 6:17 PM
Post #16 of 21
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I would say #4. Becuse if you're talking about a crack the size of #0 mastercam, there's a god chance that you can sneak nut in at some point. Not so with a fist crack.
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nthusiastj
Aug 13, 2008, 3:12 PM
Post #17 of 21
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I think you may have just had some tunnel vision on Hiatus. I don't remember even contemplating a #4 on it.
I climb all along the Front Range and my #4 hasn't seen action in like 3 years. Then again I hate offwidth.
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tedman
Aug 13, 2008, 5:28 PM
Post #18 of 21
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Oh believe me, I was frantically looking for any placement I could make. The big ass offwidth is all you have. Granted its easy climbing, just layback and walk up it, so you probly just ran it out without thinking about it. Being fairly new to the whole trad game, decking on that ledge was foremost in my mind until I finally got our #3 in.
But yeah, I finally went with a #0 and #1 mastercam, and then #2/#3 stoppers. The first argument 'what do you feel more comfortable running it out on' really made the decision. Thanks for all the input!
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jorgegonzalez
Aug 14, 2008, 7:54 PM
Post #19 of 21
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Bigger nuts works best in most situations.
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stymingersfink
Aug 14, 2008, 8:01 PM
Post #20 of 21
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jorgegonzalez wrote: Bigger nuts works best in most situations.
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the_climber
Aug 14, 2008, 8:11 PM
Post #21 of 21
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stymingersfink wrote: jorgegonzalez wrote: Bigger nuts works best in most situations. ^^is tru
Some even climb with a pack to carry their big nuts.
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