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dso2004
Aug 7, 2008, 1:33 AM
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I have been climbing for about 7 years, but I am new to both multipitch, as well as traditional climbing. I went to Seneca last year with my climbing partner and took a one day course in multipitch traditional climbing and I have been practicing since that time, but not too much. Does anyone have any suggestions on which route I should climb this year? I would prefer about 5.3 with preset anchor belay stations. Thanks.
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Aunor
Aug 7, 2008, 2:12 AM
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Old Lady's route.
Perfect for you.
It will take you right to the south peak sumit.
Good protection...Good climbing... Great exposure... The route goes on both sides of the south peak and ends right at a rapple route.
I will PM all the detail you need to find your way safely tomorrow from work.
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dso2004
Aug 7, 2008, 2:40 AM
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Thanks! The one thing that I am deathly afraid of is getting up there and not being able to find the belay stations/and or the rapell anchors.
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pornstarr
Aug 7, 2008, 2:55 AM
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i don't think you'll find bolted belays on old lady's.
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dso2004
Aug 7, 2008, 3:14 AM
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How are the belay stations set up on Old Lady's?
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Aunor
Aug 7, 2008, 10:52 AM
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No, no bolts.
Natural anchors at all pitches.
Second and third... nice trees to use.
The first one you can sling around some rocks.
Bring enough webbing.
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erclimb
Aug 7, 2008, 11:32 AM
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the first pitch of totem is 5.4 with bolts at the top--this route is often used by guides for mock leads
le gourmet is a 5.4 with bolts at the top (on a huge ledge)
old lady's is a good starter...the first belay is secure so i suggest you try building a 3-point anchor--practice, practice, practice
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AlexCV
Aug 7, 2008, 12:00 PM
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If you don't trust your pro placements enough to build an anchor on them, you really shouldn't be leading on them.
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reg
Aug 7, 2008, 1:09 PM
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certainly "trafic jam" is bolted - three stations unless you have two ropes then you can hit the ground from the second station. The thrid station is right (south) on the face. alsways fun. I suggest you rope up for the walk through the "window" out to the bolts at the tree. if you need directions pm me or others here. easy to find and safe. the guides down there do chk the gear (sleaved static around trees) during the season. tie a new piece of webbing if your un-sure. you can chk older webbing for signs of rope being pulled through (burn marks/tracks) don't trust that piece(s). buddy up with others to speed things up or share rope for double lenght raps.
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markc
Aug 7, 2008, 2:43 PM
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What's Skyline Traverse rated these days? The start to the second pitch is heady, but the climbing throughout is manageable. The first belay is bolted, the second belay has a tree you can incorporate in your anchor, and you can use a tree at the top of the third pitch as the last anchor. I usually go up something else after hitting Broadway Ledge, but rumor has it you can head south to get to Luncheon Ledge and the hike down.
Depending upon how you break up Old Mans, you could use natural anchors for much of it. It's a fun, easy route that protects well.
Old Ladies is a good route, but I've always built an anchor at the top of P1. Getting in good pro for the second on the traverse is really important. You'll want to place something shortly after the crux move. (It's not difficult, but it will feel awkward your first time through.)
Ecstasy Junior is a fun 5.4 with natural anchors. It protects well, but is above the grade of what you're looking for. It would make a good route as you progress.
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dso2004
Aug 7, 2008, 9:38 PM
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Thanks for all of your input. One more question, does anyone have any suggestions for finding topo maps for these routes? Thanks.
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Aunor
Aug 7, 2008, 10:25 PM
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It wont help much.
Guide book helps a little.
I got busy today and didn't send that PM.
I will tomorrow without fail.
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markc
Aug 8, 2008, 12:59 AM
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As Aunor said, pick up the second edition of the Tony Barnes guide. It will give you all the beta you need. There are B&W photos which show most routes, plus written descriptions of every route. For the routes in question, you shouldn't encounter problems with route finding.
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Aunor
Aug 8, 2008, 8:00 PM
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[URL=http://img297.imageshack.us/my.php?image=senecapg9.jpg] 
http://img297.imageshack.us/...?image=senecapg9.jpg
West side...The green line will lead you to Luncheon Ledge.
Locate Humphrey's head (its the formation that sticks up right of the red line out on its own.)
There is a "V" like split between that and what is called Cockcomb on the right (right on the red line.)
1) Start there... climb to the notch that leads to the east face.... that is P1. There are some large rocks you can sling and easy places for anchor placements for belay.
Do a really good job here on protection... check and double check.
2) Move out on the East face.. you have to move down to traverse. Place good protection as you move across the East face. You move to some large trees. Set up your belay for the second there. That is P2.
3) Climb up and right to the flake-chimmney (you will see two and wonder which... its the far one.) Again, you will climb to trees. Set up your bleay for the second there. That is P3.
4) After that is a walk up stones on the top. The light blue line is were you will find bolts to rapple.
And buy the Tony Barnes book.
Call the climbing store and tell them to pull you a copy and you will be there to buy it when you get there...
(This post was edited by Aunor on Aug 8, 2008, 8:02 PM)
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dso2004
Aug 10, 2008, 5:10 AM
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Thanks for all of the input. I think you have me convinced, we are going to do Old Ladies route. Just one more clarification on the rappel station, I purchased the Tony Barnes book and it arrived today. Where exactly is the rappel station for Old Ladies? Is it just below the summit of Break Neck?
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Aunor
Aug 10, 2008, 8:10 PM
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Its on the west side.
see Conn's West in your book.
Be safe.
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dso2004
Aug 11, 2008, 2:33 AM
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Thanks a lot for your help, I greatly appreciate it. We are planning on going Sept 12-14, and since this will be my first multipitch, trad climb without a guide I just want to make sure that I am prepared.
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markc
Aug 11, 2008, 1:50 PM
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Aunor wrote: Its on the west side. see Conn's West in your book. Be safe.
There are two commonly used rappel stations off the west side of the southern section of Seneca, the Conn's West rappel and the Traffic Jam rappel. Conn's West is closer to the summit, and the anchors are easy to find. Both raps can be done with a single 60 meter rope, and both have interesting starts.
For the Conn's West rappel, there is a short downclimb to get to the rappel anchors. It's easy fifth class, but feels pretty exposed the first time or two. You can belay down or lower the first person to it, but most people downclimb it. There's a lot of small, loose rocks on most of the ledges, so be careful not to knock anything down as you go.
For the Traffic Jam rappel, there's an airy step to get to the rappel anchor. If you use a very long sling, you can clip the chains before you turn the corner. Again, it's really simple, but you don't want to fall.
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naitch
Aug 11, 2008, 2:49 PM
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I would recommend the Traffic Jam rap station if this is your first time. The Conn's West one has the down-climb to get to it and also has a traverse at the end of the second pitch where you have to stay attached to your belay rope and walk across the ledge to get to the anchors for the third rap. Traffic Jam rap is pretty much a straight shot and there is no down climb to get to it - just scrambling through the chimney.
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ViewFromTheTop
Aug 12, 2008, 12:34 AM
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Seneca Rocks is a hell of a place. Beautiful and amazing climbing. The Tony Barnes book has every route mapped out and defined very well. If you are looking for a guide there, be sure to contact the Seneca Rocks Mountain Guides. They are the poster climbers for that crag.
Theres the book you need
And thats who you should go see down on the corner, you can't miss the wall.
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dso2004
Aug 12, 2008, 3:22 AM
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I just got the book a couple days ago. It is a great book! I copied some of the maps from the book and laminated them to take with me.
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ViewFromTheTop
Aug 12, 2008, 3:49 AM
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It is a good book. If you want to meet the Author, check out the New Coffee shop at their guide shop and ask for tony. Hes part owner of the shop and is there quite often. On the back of the coffee house on the back deck where the seating is, they have a huge painted map of over 100+ of the more popular routes. If you want to bring the guide book with you while you climb, just make sure you drill a hole in the corner and attach it a beaner. You don't want to be dropping anything as it is a very active crag.
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stymingersfink
Aug 12, 2008, 4:03 AM
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AlexCV wrote: If you don't trust your pro placements enough to build an anchor on them, you really shouldn't be leading on them.
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notapplicable
Aug 12, 2008, 6:44 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: AlexCV wrote: If you don't trust your pro placements enough to build an anchor on them, you really shouldn't be leading on them. ^^core wrecked.
Dont discourage them Stinky. The epic watching at that place is a great source of amusement for me. Why are you conspiring against my joy.
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stymingersfink
Aug 12, 2008, 12:18 PM
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notapplicable wrote: stymingersfink wrote: AlexCV wrote: If you don't trust your pro placements enough to build an anchor on them, you really shouldn't be leading on them. ^^ core wreckedbelay's on, climb on! Dont discourage them Stinky. The epic watching at that place is a great source of amusement for me. Why are you conspiring against my joy.
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