|
pharmboy
Nov 4, 2002, 1:22 PM
Post #1 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2002
Posts: 701
|
Kind of an idiot question, but I can't stop wondering about....
On Masters of Stone V... Dean's solo of The Nose he talks about his doing the King Swing on a piece of 100'... you see him do the swing on this rope, but I was wondering how he would get the rope unanchored.
Sorry for the stupid questions, I haven't started aiding yet and I just couldn't figure it out on my own.
Thanks...
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Nov 4, 2002, 3:12 PM
Post #2 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
Uh, ever hear tell of a double rope rappel?
|
|
|
|
|
pharmboy
Nov 4, 2002, 4:05 PM
Post #3 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2002
Posts: 701
|
"Uh, ever hear tell of a double rope rappel?"
Ya... ok, umm, is that an answer to my question? It appeared he was on a single 100' piece of rope.
Now I will admit that I know crap about aiding, I believe I even stated that in my post. My question was merely one of those things that you get stuck in your head and you really want to know the reason why or how.
I hope that I misinterpreted your post Pete and that you really weren't trying to belittle a new climber or someone unfamiliar with aid. I can't imagine that someone as experienced and proficient in aiding as you would need to make someone less experienced feel like crap so that you could feel better about yourself. I highly doubt that is the case as I have (had) great respect for you as a climber and have learned a lot by reading your posts.
I'm sure I'm reading way too much into your one sentence answer to my unexpereienced yet legitimate question.
Rich
|
|
|
|
|
quart
Nov 4, 2002, 6:34 PM
Post #4 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 23, 2002
Posts: 22
|
It's been a while since I saw that clip but I think I remember him leaving the rope somewhere on the route. Maybe he just left it there?
|
|
|
|
|
coldclimb
Nov 4, 2002, 6:52 PM
Post #5 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 14, 2002
Posts: 6909
|
Haven't seen the video, but I'm pretty sure no one would leave a rope. It would be easy to jug up, untie from the anchor, and rappel with two ropes, then pull the rope and be back where you started with the rope in hand. Maybe that's how it happened.
|
|
|
|
|
pharmboy
Nov 4, 2002, 7:03 PM
Post #6 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2002
Posts: 701
|
He narrates his climb while your watching the clip. (His crack work through The Stovelegs is unbelievable)...
Anywho... he comments on 'traveling light' and only carries a 100' piece of rope with him. Then it shows him doing the King Swing with only one length of rope going down. Shortly after you see him aiding a section and the rope is coiled and around his back somehow.
It wasn't really a big deal, like I said it was just a question I was thinking of and couldn't figure out, thought I'd throw it on here to see if anyone had any insight on it.
|
|
|
|
|
mattiem
Nov 4, 2002, 7:33 PM
Post #7 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 6, 2002
Posts: 104
|
You are right pharmboy he does do the swing on a single strand and then it is back on his back. Perhaps the camera man filming untied it after the swing? And to the others no it was NOT a double rope rap or swing so no he didn't just pull the rope after.
|
|
|
|
|
pharmboy
Nov 4, 2002, 7:49 PM
Post #8 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2002
Posts: 701
|
Thanks for confirming that Matt.... The way he talks about this climb it sounds like he has solo'd The Nose before... which I'm certain he has. I thought about the cameraman idea... but didn't know if there would be another way to get the rope off.
The funniest part of that video.... "Don't touch me...!" The look at that dude's face is just priceless!
|
|
|
|
|
cdb1386
Nov 4, 2002, 7:55 PM
Post #9 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2001
Posts: 391
|
I need to see that video.
|
|
|
|
|
jerrygarcia
Nov 4, 2002, 8:05 PM
Post #10 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 837
|
Quote:The funniest part of that video.... "Don't touch me...!" The look at that dude's face is just priceless!
Yes
|
|
|
|
|
aluvasjack
Nov 4, 2002, 8:46 PM
Post #11 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2002
Posts: 19
|
If the cameraman untied it then it wouldn't really be concidered soloing......would it? That is a very good question. I own the video. It is true it was a single strand swing. He then had it on his back after the swing, even when he reached the top. How he untied it I have no idea. It looked like a very hairy swing to me!
Personally my favorite part of the video was the tribute to Osman. He was an awsome climber with balls of granite!!!!!!
Anybody know exacitally what happened to kill him?
|
|
|
|
|
pharmboy
Nov 4, 2002, 8:52 PM
Post #12 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2002
Posts: 701
|
There's been a few threads here and quite a bit of debate over Dan's death. I don't claim to know the truth... put apparently he was jumping from a familiar location that he had already jumped several times before, however this last jump he "aledgedly" went from a new exit point... struck a tree which severed his rope, causing a ground fall. Conflicting reports state that his system failed somewhere. Regardless... totally sucks.
I loved the scene of him climbing under the waterfall.
|
|
|
|
|
ephemeral
Nov 4, 2002, 9:34 PM
Post #13 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2002
Posts: 52
|
Dan O died of knot failure. The rig was up for a month or more while he sorted out an arrest and short jail term. The rangers threatened to take his rig at leaning tower so Dan O went back to take it down but decided to take a few more jumps. The set up is shown in MOS V just not the jump that killed him.
The tie in knot failed. The rope was tested by Black Diamond I believe.
|
|
|
|
|
passthepitonspete
Nov 4, 2002, 11:03 PM
Post #14 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
|
OK, first of all, my comment was not meant to be a slight, so I do apologize if you felt offended. Sorry. However may I suggest that when you refer to your question as "idiot[ic]" and "stupid" you may in fact be setting yourself up for that kind of response?
I have not seen the video, but my response was generated by the fact that there is only one solution to the problem. If he rapped on a single rope, which you didn't indicate, obviously someone cut it free for him, perhaps the cameraman. Either that or it was fixed, which seems unlikely.
This is of no consequence - Dean is the bitchin'est climber I personally know.
Pharmboy, often people will post questions here that if they merely think, they can probably come up with the answer on their own. I assumed someone with three years' climbing experience could come up with the only logical possibilities.
I did not mean to be patronizing, dude. I am sorry. I hope you can tell that most of the time, my heart is in the right place.
[Note: While I am frequently a smart ass, I try never to be patronizing! There is a difference...]
As for "making you feel like crap," that was not my intent. My therapist tells me that *I* alone am responsible for my own feelings, and that nobody can make me feel anything [though sometimes they do!] This is not one of those times. I have learned that when writing on the www, it pays to develop a thick skin!
Dan-O died when his rope broke. It was believed to be a combination of the rope being wet and sun-damaged, but when I read the report it appeared as though the "falling rope" fell over top of the rope stretched between the crags, and that it was cut on the retrieval pulley.
Anyone got the link to Dan-O's death?
|
|
|
|
|
mountainmonkey
Nov 4, 2002, 11:18 PM
Post #15 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 11, 2002
Posts: 474
|
Holy cow - I know something the good doctor does not know.
http://www.fishproducts.com/tech/rope.html
You have to scroll down to it.
I trust that information more than anything else I have heard of the accident.
|
|
|
|
|
mountainmonkey
Nov 4, 2002, 11:27 PM
Post #16 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 11, 2002
Posts: 474
|
I have not climbed the Nose - I have only drooled at the base and I touched the rock (palms are now sweating...)- but someone who is familiar with the pitches would know.
Could he pendi into the crack system and climb to a higher belay, fix the end of the rope, rappel, clean the pendulum anchor, and jug back up?
|
|
|
|
|
clmbng_addict
Nov 5, 2002, 12:13 AM
Post #17 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2001
Posts: 134
|
mountainmonkey--I was just going to suggest the same thing, actually. I don't know anything about aid climbing or the Nose though, so i couldn't tell you if that would work. Perhaps someone more educated could enlighten us....
|
|
|
|
|
wonderbread
Nov 5, 2002, 12:20 AM
Post #18 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 13, 2002
Posts: 197
|
I did the nose a few years back, but I don't believe that makes it any simpler. However I do have guess, but of course don't own the movie, so you kids go get in front of the TV and do your homework. My guess is that Dean carried two ropes down low, one for the intent purpose of leaving at the penji point and then continued on with the other rope. So does it look like he had two ropes down low(like where he passed the guy and also the bolt ladder up to the boot flake). I doubt the camaraman freed the rope as one then couldn't really call it a solo.
|
|
|
|
|
beyond_gravity
Nov 5, 2002, 12:43 AM
Post #19 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2002
Posts: 5078
|
He used magic. It's the only way to explain his climbing ability and the rope thing.
|
|
|
|
|
sparky
Nov 5, 2002, 2:49 AM
Post #20 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 31, 2002
Posts: 438
|
I know he wouldn't just leave the rope because he whines about people littering on the Nose later in the film. He probably just hovered back over to the rope, untie it then fly back over and keep on climbing.
Dan Osman died when he jumped over his recovery line with a worn, old rope.
That is the best film EVER.
|
|
|
|
|
stevematthys
Nov 5, 2002, 5:07 AM
Post #21 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 13, 2000
Posts: 1248
|
yea, i am going with b_g on this one. magic.
|
|
|
|
|
fishypete
Nov 5, 2002, 9:44 AM
Post #22 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 5, 2002
Posts: 200
|
AAAARRGH!!
Another screwed up Dan Osman Thread!
Will people never do a search!! The facts are even here on this very site - in multiple places!!!!!!!!
Dans rope did not break at the knot.
He did not hit any trees.
His gear was not damaged by any exposure to the elements.
His rope was in excellent condition.
It didn't break at the haul pulley.
There was no reason why this jump should not have been successful, if he had repeated his previous system exactly.
Put simply, he altered his jump point, causing his retrieval line to rub on the main jump line as he fell, melting it through.
The melting at the break point was found in an analysis done my Black Diamond. The original announcement done by the BD tester is on rec.climbing.
All the info is here:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=14929&forum=23
Fight the rumours!
Cheers
Fishy.
|
|
|
|
|
karlbaba
Nov 7, 2002, 2:13 AM
Post #23 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 10, 2002
Posts: 1159
|
I don't know what Dean did but have done that pitch a number of times and it would be easy to do the King Swing with one rope, use it to belay yourself (with high swing potential) up until you were higher than the boot flake anchors, and the rap back a short distance on the same rope to unclip it.
PEace
karl
|
|
|
|
|
joebuzz
Nov 7, 2002, 3:00 AM
Post #24 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 5, 2002
Posts: 107
|
The "Don't Touch Me!" guy on Sickle Ledge... isn't that Timmy O'neil?:roll2:
I'm probably wrong though.
[ This Message was edited by: joebuzz on 2002-11-06 19:05 ]
|
|
|
|
|
flamer
Nov 14, 2002, 2:56 AM
Post #25 of 28
(4642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 22, 2002
Posts: 2955
|
Mr. Buzz you are correct that man on the ledge was none other than...Timmy O'neil! I assume it was a set up as Mr. O'neil and Mr. Potter are friends- who happen to run really fast laps on the nose together...
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
