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krosbakken
Aug 22, 2008, 4:04 AM
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What is a good aid climbing book? Im looking for a book that will teach me all about it, like gear, skills, something along those lines.
Thanks
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stymingersfink
Aug 22, 2008, 4:12 AM
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krosbakken wrote: What is a good aid climbing book? Im looking for a book that will teach me all about it, like gear, skills, something along those lines. Thanks
Honestly? Your best bet is to have a strong trad-climbing skillset, what with placing gear, cleaning said gear, solid working understanding of rope techniques.
After that? Just follow someone up a big wall, cleaning and hauling the entire way. If you can hang tough enough to top out, consider your apprenticeship largely complete. Begin accumulating the gear you have discovered you are lacking.
After that, all you'll need to do is have the will and determination to get yourself to to the top of a very big wall.
Try to farm yourself out to someone who's considering soloing a wall. They'll appreciate the help of a hauler/cleaner, you'll benefit from the education you can't help but get from the experience. You'll get out of it exactly what you put into it... always be willing to do more than necessary, never say quit, if their personality conflicts with yours just deal with it quietly. Big Wall aid climbing is all about suffering, both mentally and physically. It's not for everyone, but damnit it sure is fun!
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krosbakken
Aug 22, 2008, 4:16 AM
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Im looking for a name of a book but thanks for that post. but im still looking for a name, and im not saying im getting into aid I just kinda want to see what it is all about.
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hacksaw
Aug 22, 2008, 4:17 AM
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krosbakken wrote: What is a good aid climbing book? Im looking for a book that will teach me all about it, like gear, skills, something along those lines. Thanks
Try and find a copy of Doug Scott's book BIG WALL CLIMBING. But, I have feeling is now sort of dated. I'm sure there are newer aid climbing books out there......
HM
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stymingersfink
Aug 22, 2008, 4:20 AM
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krosbakken wrote: Im looking for a name of a book but thanks for that post. but im still looking for a name, and im not saying im getting into aid I just kinda want to see what it is all about.
http://www.bigwalls.net/
IIRC, Middendorf is the author of the book I mentioned already. He was/is a bigwall God.
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stymingersfink
Aug 22, 2008, 4:25 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: krosbakken wrote: Im looking for a name of a book but thanks for that post. but im still looking for a name, and im not saying im getting into aid I just kinda want to see what it is all about.  edit to add amazon link and cover shot.
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fatoomchk
Aug 22, 2008, 9:11 AM
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I read the Middendorf/Long book about 10 or 12 years ago. I thought it was a good introduction. Unless a new addition includes it, at the time there were a few newer widgets that were not included in the book (cam hooks, aliens etc). It doesn't cover some really basic stuff too - like "thumbing" your aiders.
It has all the basics though, so is a good spot to start.
Although, as an earlier poster mentioned, there is nothing like climbing with an experienced aider. I learned more in one 24 hour climb with an experienced aid climber than I did in 2 years bumbling around by myself.
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stymingersfink
Aug 22, 2008, 2:10 PM
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fatoomchk wrote: I read the Middendorf/Long book about 10 or 12 years ago. I thought it was a good introduction. Unless a new addition includes it, at the time there were a few newer widgets that were not included in the book (cam hooks, aliens etc). It doesn't cover some really basic stuff too - like "thumbing" your aiders. It has all the basics though, so is a good spot to start. Although, as an earlier poster mentioned, there is nothing like climbing with an experienced aider. I learned more in one 24 hour climb with an experienced aid climber than I did in 2 years bumbling around by myself.
Like stickin' a spike in my vein, I've been hooked ever since.
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holdplease2
Aug 22, 2008, 11:50 PM
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The absolutely most interesting and technical book is by Jared Ogden, and I am pretty sure I've read most of them. The book is called Elite Technique, I still read it and am still learning from it. It is probably also the most up-to-date book out there. New techniques and gear develop over time.
Also, check the FISH products web site for information on how to do stuff and posts on Supertopo.
I learned how to aid climb from reading PTPP's posts here combined with the "Big Walls" book, then went out and started climbing without a mentor. There is plenty of information online and in books to do that if you know just a bit about trad gear in the first place.
Hope this helps,
-Kate.
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