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Twobits
Aug 25, 2008, 4:03 PM
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We are Gunks climbers who will be visiting Yosemite for the first time for 10 days in late Sept to early Oct.. We lead 5.9 at the Gunks but are not good crack climbers. 5.8 cracks in NH and UT is about our limit. Any recommendation on climbs in the valley or the meadows will be appreciated. Thanks.
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climbingaggie03
Aug 25, 2008, 4:22 PM
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Get the super topo book, there's tons of moderates in it, with good approach info. My list of reccomended climbs would be something like this:
Royal Arches
Snake Dike
The Grack
Climbs at Knob Hill
Munginella
Commitment (it's 5.9 but have a look at it)
half a day at 5 and dime cliff
Chinouard Crack
Marginal (it's 5.9 R pure friction for 3 or 4 pitches)
After Six
Nut Cracker
I'm sure there are other good routes for you, I doubt it will be very hard to fill 10 days in the valley with climbing under 5.8 Good luck and Have fun
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nthusiastj
Aug 25, 2008, 4:48 PM
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climbingaggie03 wrote: Get the super topo book, there's tons of moderates in it, with good approach info. My list of reccomended climbs would be something like this: Royal Arches Snake Dike The Grack Climbs at Knob Hill Munginella Commitment (it's 5.9 but have a look at it) half a day at 5 and dime cliff Chinouard Crack Marginal (it's 5.9 R pure friction for 3 or 4 pitches) After Six Nut Cracker I'm sure there are other good routes for you, I doubt it will be very hard to fill 10 days in the valley with climbing under 5.8 Good luck and Have fun
Pretty much right on the mark.
I didn't really like Snake Dike though. I swear it's a joke that everyone says it's so classic. It's just a super long approach for an OK climb. But if you REALLY want to climb Half Dome, I guess it's the easiest way.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 25, 2008, 4:49 PM
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Definitely recommend The Grack. Such a nice, low-angle crack climb that never really feels like a crack. Also, when I was there the first week in June, we were alone in that area the entire day.
Munginella was nice, too, but not as nice as I thought it would be. Still, it had an easy approach and was also void of other people the entire time I was there.
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climbingaggie03
Aug 25, 2008, 4:57 PM
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it is a long walk, but I love the cruiser runout climbing with lunch on top of half dome, if you're going to do snake dike, it's best to go ultra light, I think I've posted my rack for it before, but it's basically every other nut from 6-13, Red and brown tri-cam, link cam number 2, yellow and orange TCU, and maybe a .75 or number 1 camalot. 6 trad draws, the lightest rope you can come by and a couple of lockers.
The first time I did it, my partner climbed (and led) in a swiss seat, and I've never taken a belay device, I just use a munter hitch, but I think maybe next time I'd take a belay device. Also, my second time we took 3 water bottles, with only 2 of them full at the start. We filled up all 3 when the trail leaves the river (treated with a steri-pen, but iodine or aqua mira would work too) and then drank like fiends when we finally got back to the river.
We did it in 11 hours car to car with probably 45 minutes chillin on top, light is right with snake dike.
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summerprophet
Aug 25, 2008, 5:21 PM
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Well honestly climbingaggie nailed the valley perfectly, for what you are looking for.
Here would be the Meadows hit list:
hermaphrodite flake to the boltway
(really anything on Stately Pleasure dome)
zee tree
Tenaya peak (great if you simul or are fast on 5.0)
Hobbit book
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sjderis
Aug 25, 2008, 5:29 PM
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For a nice quick warm up - Do aunt fanny's pantry area - good fun short climb to get you started - Then try Bishops terrace! Loved it!
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jungle_george
Aug 25, 2008, 6:09 PM
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One cool climb that hasn't been mentioned is Jamcrack. Nice 2 pitch affair - 1st pitch is a sweet 5.7 handcrack, 2nd pitch is an easy 5.9.
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leapinlizard
Aug 25, 2008, 7:06 PM
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Something that makes for a nice morning solo (if and when you get comfortable on yos granite) is the sunnyside bench direct route. First two pitches are 4th class, third is 5.4, but really it's only one move. It gets you to the top of the bench where it is a short walk to the middle Yosemite fall pools, then you can walk off the other direction.
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dingus
Aug 25, 2008, 8:01 PM
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For Yose 1stimers Snake Dike only makes sense if you're bound and determined to get to the summit of 1.2 Dome and you want to do it via a 5th class climb.
If the focus is on rock climbing (as opposed to hiking, for example) stick to the valley bottom venues (and enjoy!)
DMT
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Merkin
Aug 25, 2008, 8:25 PM
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Try an El Cap base route like Pine Line (5.7) or Moby Dick (5.10a). Real ambiance and easy to get caught in the nostalgia.
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markc
Aug 25, 2008, 8:47 PM
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climbingaggie03 wrote: My list of reccomended climbs would be something like this: Royal Arches The Grack After Six
Add Aunt Fanny's Pantry the day I stumbled in, and you have my list of climbs in reverse order from my June visit. I definitely have some of the other routes from this thread on my list for next time.
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sgreer
Aug 25, 2008, 9:50 PM
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Munginella is just that... "munge".
Royal Arches is a great route with many variations and some sweet ledges to chill out on. The rapel route is long...at least 10 of them. Don't link them either, ropes get stuck frequently.
If you are looking for something burly...try Braille Book. I climbed this last week with my cousin and it was very physical. I've heard it called Bail Book frequently. A lot of teams bail on the first pitch.
Snake Hike.. I mean Snake Dike is cool but not worth the 1000' of 3 class slabs that meets you after the 8th pitch and the long hike back down to the valley. Set up a base camp in Little Yosemite and stay the night. I did this route a few weeks ago and when I got to the top it looked like Pacific Beach on Spring Break. Holy crap there are so many people up there these days.
I'm in the Valley at least 2 weekends a month and climb all over the area. If you want to escape the crowds and climb some area classics outside the park send me a message.
The list climbingaggie03 put up is definitely "THE LIST". Climb those and you'll have a great time.
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deltav
Aug 25, 2008, 10:49 PM
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Merkin wrote: Try an El Cap base route like Pine Line (5.7) or Moby Dick (5.10a). Real ambiance and easy to get caught in the nostalgia.
Pine Line is a sweet route. Great views both up and down. I highly recommend this route.
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dingus
Aug 25, 2008, 11:02 PM
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deltav wrote: Merkin wrote: Try an El Cap base route like Pine Line (5.7) or Moby Dick (5.10a). Real ambiance and easy to get caught in the nostalgia. Pine Line is a sweet route. Great views both up and down. I highly recommend this route.
Moby Dick would be a brutal sandbag to a 5.8/5.9 leader who professed to be weak at cracks.
Character building... but sandbagish.
If you're tempted anyway? Do Bishop's Terrace (5.8 and classic Yosemite beginner's jam testpiece) first. If you float that Moby Dick might not seem so bad. If you struggle on Bishop's Terrace, forget about Moby Dick for this trip.
Oh and Robbins DOWNCLIMBED Moby Dick in tennis shoes after free soloing Ahab using same footgear, back in the early 70s!
Where mortals dare tread....
DMT
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summerprophet
Aug 26, 2008, 3:28 PM
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sgreer wrote: Munginella is just that... "munge".
dude,
Munginerra, hasen't been munge in atleast a decade, head back out there and you may be quite shocked at what a constant stream of climbers can do to clean up a route.
Sellangenella on the other hand.......
Oh and Brail Book sucks for the novice. I actually gave the same advice you did a few years ago and was adminished for it, so I went up and climbed it again to refresh my memory of the route. Super long hike, and the climbing really isn't any fun until about 5 pitches up.
Good place to work on skills, but not the destination point for limited time in the valley.
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dingus
Aug 26, 2008, 3:58 PM
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Braille Book is an EXCELLENT climb start to finish, but it ain't no beginner's route.
DMT
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sgreer
Aug 26, 2008, 4:24 PM
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Agreed Dingus,
Start to finish is excellent. I love it when you finially get out of the corner and top out on the 4th on that sweet ledge. You get a killer view of middle cathedral looming across the void. God what a feeling. Then you have to step out and down into the void to get to the hand crack... bone chilling!
Twobits,
Not a beginner route, but if you can find somebody to follow, do it. It's the only way to get used to the old school grade Yosemite climbs.
Dingus,
How about Cental Pillar of Fresnzy? Have you done that one?
(This post was edited by sgreer on Aug 26, 2008, 4:28 PM)
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dingus
Aug 26, 2008, 4:30 PM
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sgreer wrote: How about Cental Pillar of Fresnzy? Have you done that one?
Aye, 10, maybe 12 times. Its a goodun! Always rapped after 5, ever top out? I never had the stones to continue...
DMT
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sgreer
Aug 27, 2008, 7:57 PM
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No, but I'm eyeing it. It's hard to miss. Just seeking beta. To top out i would probably aid some and free some after 5 pitches. I'm thinking some bivy gear may be smart. Those pesky thunderstorms can build without notice and it's a long way to the top.
(This post was edited by sgreer on Aug 27, 2008, 7:58 PM)
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