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climbingaggie03
Sep 1, 2008, 8:57 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2004
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So i'm planning on trying to go up the nose for my first time this fall. I have solid approach shoes that are great for standing in aiders and have sticky enough rubber, but I was thinking about getting some climbing shoes that are big and comfy. I'm thinking that I'll be able to free/french free more with climbing shoes, and that they'll be ok for short stretches in the aiders. Has anybody tried this? how did it work? are there any climbing shoes that people think are better than others for this?
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snowey
Sep 1, 2008, 9:19 PM
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I think you nailed it right on the head. Comfy free shoes are pretty important on a route such as the nose. I think its not so much the type of shoe but rather its the fit. I wore an old pair of mad rock slipons that seemed to work fine. I think ideally its nice to have shoes that you can both climb in and are comfortable enough to jug in so that you don't have to take the time to switch your shoes at every belay (if you are swapping leads).
Another consideration is spending money on shoes....if you are both jugging and climbing in these shoes they are going to get ripped up. It would be a shame to buy a new pair of shoes just to thrash them on the nose. Just a thought.
Oh yeah...and here is some spray about our trip up there last weekend. Feel free to PM if you want some beta.
http://pullharder.org/.../27/the-nose-epicly/
(This post was edited by snowey on Sep 1, 2008, 9:20 PM)
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summerprophet
Sep 2, 2008, 4:22 AM
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get a comfy set of still free climbing shoes and have them resoled with extra thick rands.
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the_climber
Sep 2, 2008, 4:27 AM
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If you're looking for a wall boot/climbing shoe, middle of the road option I would seriously recommend the Evolv Maximus.
Comfy enough for standing in aiders for extended periods, and more than capable for climbing 5.10. I purchased a pair last spring with the intent to use them as an aid climbing shoe/comfy shoe for easy climbing. After putting them through the ringer I've all but stopped using my regular shoes for 90% of my climbing as I'm able to climb well into the 5.10 range in them with 110% more comfort. Add to that being able to comfortably stand in aiders as long as I can with approach shoes... well for me it's a good fit for all round climbing crossing between the disciplines. Try them out if you can. The price is good too.
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jungle_george
Sep 2, 2008, 1:54 PM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2008
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Any of you guys have experience with the Evolv Strykers? I've seen the reviews on here and they're favorable, but I wander how they compare to the Maximus.
I've had the Strykers for about 6 weeks, I love them for standing in the aiders, and have led up to 5.7 on them, although I feel like they could climb harder. It's kind of a big unknown for me how they'll perform on a wall, because I haven't been up a big wall yet (planning for my first next month).
So, can you guys with wall experience put my mind at ease with the Strykers, or should I bite the bullet on something else?
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yetanotherdave
Sep 2, 2008, 3:17 PM
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I'll second that - you'll want to free as much as possible, and decent free shoes will help that a lot. The beefier rands would have been a good plan, I burned a hole in the rands of my fave shoes. If you're climbing in blocks it's worth the time to switch shoes for jugging!
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coolcat83
Sep 2, 2008, 3:42 PM
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Registered: Jan 27, 2007
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I believe evolve will add a super rand to just about anything last i checked, for $15. I got one on some shoes from them and haven't been able to kill them yet...even with my crappy footwork.
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flamer
Sep 2, 2008, 8:20 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2002
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Get some board lasted shoes.
josh
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pbcowboy77
Sep 4, 2008, 2:05 AM
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Registered: Jun 9, 2002
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I 3rd the Evolv...
skinner wrote: 2nd on the Evolvs.. or, you could check out the: Evolv big wall boot review for yourself. [image]http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll158/verticalventures/Kevin/McGillivray/th_P8230827-Asm.jpg[/image] |
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